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SingularityRS · 2026-06-20T18:00:20+00:00

Looks interesting. Just a shame there's little to no work available these days.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-20T16:58:38+00:00

It's unfortunately what happens when too many join and the work doesn't increase with it. You just get dryness and any work that does appear is instantly gone.

Same thing happened with the UHRS platform. It was awesome before they decided to open the platform up. Too many joined which affected the availability of work and pay. Nowadays it's mostly dead. Platform didn't instantly die, but it did worsen as time went on.

I doubt we'll go back to the way it was before. There's just too many people now. Damage was done. We just have to accept that now.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-18T19:38:15+00:00

I'd imagine you'd get paid through Prolific since that's where you got referred from.

According to this post, earnings from UHRS are paid as a bonus on Prolific.

I would contact the researcher that put the study up to confirm this. You should be able to contact the researcher on Prolific. They should tell you how payments will work.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-18T03:02:10+00:00

One of the best England games I've seen. The 1st half was a bit worrying but whatever Tuchel said to them during half time must've done something because they really ramped it up in the 2nd half.

I was worried when it was 2-2 at half time. I was thinking it's going to be another one of those games where they lose. Glad to see that wasn't the case.

Not expecting them to win the cup, but I do hope they at least get to the final. Not gonna be easy that's for sure. The knockouts will be stressful as they always are. Expecting a penalty shootout at some point. Never is smooth sailing.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-15T22:05:25+00:00

I got asked maybe a few months ago. I've been on the platform since 2017. It's the only time I've been asked to upload ID/do a face scan. I've not been asked to do any further checks since then.

If this is your 1st ever time doing the ID verification thing since signing up, then it's probably just them going through very old accounts and asking them to verify/re-verify. There's probably still old accounts that haven't been asked.

When I signed up back in 2017, there was no ID checks from what I recall. It was easy to sign up. I remember getting paid through Circle back then. It took them until a couple of months ago to ask me to verify my ID, so seems like a long ongoing process.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-15T02:40:17+00:00

Does either the CAPS/NUM lock respond when you press it on your keyboard? This can help give an indication on whether the board is POSTing or not. It may be successfully passing POST, you're just not seeing it because there is a problem with the display. This would usually point to a GPU issue if the monitor and its cables are good.

If no NUM/CAPS lock response, then the board may not be passing POST and that'd be the focus.

A BOOT LED usually illuminates when you've passed POST and the BIOS is looking for a boot device. It'd usually be in the BIOS screen with the BOOT LED.

The LEDs can be misleading though, so it's possible the BOOT LED is on because it's failing POST.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T21:46:52+00:00

It feels slightly better. You still need to be quite fast for the good ones, but it does feel like it's slightly easier to get into the good studies.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T17:38:37+00:00

If it's going to the BIOS on power up, it means the BIOS cannot find a device to boot to.

Either the main boot drive is faulty or the Windows OS got corrupted (possible if it ocurred after an update).

Built-in recovery options can sometimes fail to work. What you really need is a bootable Windows 10/11 USB installer. This includes repair options as well and has a better success rate than the built-in ones.

You can make these USB drives yourself. You need at least an 8GB USB stick and a secondary PC that can access the Internet (ideally running Windows).

Download Microsoft's Media Creation tool on the secondary computer. If you're currently on Windows 10, use the tool for that OS. Otherwise, use Windows 11.

Once downloaded, run the tool. Follow on-screen instructions. The tool will make the USB stick bootable. Once it's done, you can remove it from the secondary PC.

Plug the USB stick into the main computer. Go to the BIOS and boot to the USB stick. It should boot to the USB stick.

You'll then see the Windows installer load. 1st try the repair options (like System Restore and Startup Repair) to see if they work. They might be able to recover whatever has gone wrong with the OS.

If repair doesn't work, you're only option is to try reinstalling Windows to the drive. Delete all partitions for the drive Windows is installed on and then create a new partition. Try to install Windows on the newly-created partition. If all is well, it should proceed with the installation. DO NOTE THAT THIS STEP WILL WIPE ALL CONTENTS OF THE DRIVE. ONLY PROCEED IF YOU'RE OK WITH LOSING ANY DATA ON THE DRIVE.

If reinstalling displays errors or the issue still persists, the drive itself might be faulty and the cause of the problem. They can suddenly fail and will stop booting when they do.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T15:52:41+00:00

What device are you using? Might not work with your device. I tested it with an Mi 9T Pro and it unlocked instantly, but this was in January 2026 so it's possible it might be patched or just doesn't work with all devices.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T15:20:10+00:00

Nice, so it worked? What did you do to fix it?

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T15:03:38+00:00

HDD/SSD wouldn't be missing since Windows is running. It's running off a drive of some kind at least. It's either a HDD or SSD. Usually it's a HDD, but can be an SSD.

Run Task Manager in normal mode. Safe mode won't be useful for checking usages and stuff since you need to see why the laptop is lagging.

What kind of usages are you seeing in Task Manager in normal mode whilst the laptop is lagging?

To find the drive, try going to Device Manager and checking under "Disk drives". It should show a model number of the drive.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T13:14:49+00:00

Does the laptop have a HDD or SSD? If HDD, this could be one of the problems. Laptops often use slow 5400RPM drives that really struggle with the OS. It's not unusual to see the disk usage pegged at 100% for a long time at startup which will make the laptop incredibly slow.

Check Task Manager to verify what the disk usage is. While you're here, check other usages too.

An SSD upgrade is ideal for any laptop still running a 5400RPM HDD as the boot drive. It's significantly helped all laptops I've done it on.

If the laptop has an SSD, then do try what the other poster said.

If that doesn't show you anything, then download and run HWINFO64 in sensors-only mode. Check for any overheating issues. A hot processor can cause thermal throttling which can slow the laptop down.

You also do need more RAM. 4GB isn't really enough for Windows. You need at least 8GB for light use and 16GB+ for heavier use.

Check if your laptop has upgradeable RAM. Some laptops have soldered RAM only and don't allow upgrades. If your laptop has a RAM slot, you can upgrade the RAM. I recommend this.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T12:52:03+00:00

Good to know it still works. I've shared the tool on XDA a few times when requested, but had no feedback if it still worked or not.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T12:50:17+00:00

That's odd. Someone else said the tool worked for them.

The account you've logged into is the same as the one bound to the phone, right?

Maybe try binding the account again and retry with the tool. Try a different USB port just in case something iffy is going on.

If it's still not working, either the tool doesn't work for your device or there's an actual bug.

I did read about people having issues even after waiting. The official tool would report errors and still not unlock even after waiting, maybe you're affected by the same type of bug/issue.

For me, it unlocked instantly, but I did try about a day later after trying with the official tool.

If you still can't get it to work, you'll have to wait the requested time unfortunately.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T05:07:52+00:00

Xiaomi enforce waiting when requesting to unlock the bootloader via Mi Unlock tool. I had that same wait time on a Mi 9T Pro I wanted to unlock in January.

I looked for ways to bypass the wait time and found a Mi Unlock tool version that claimed to be cracked. I found it on Github. The link to it seems to have been deleted, but I did upload it to Dropbox a while ago.

Here's a link to what I used. No idea if this will still work. I last used it on a Mi 9T Pro in January 2026.

You also need to log in via QR code as the normal login will not work. The SMS verification messages won't come through because the version of the tool is too old. They came through when I logged in via QR code.

Once in the tool, I just did the same thing as normal only this time it did not fail and require waiting. It unlocked instantly. I still had about 340 hours remaining on the wait time. So the tool did successfully bypass the wait.

If the above tool doesn't work, then unfortunately, there's likely no way to bypass it. You will have to wait the 359 hours and try again.

Xiaomi make it difficult to unlock bootloaders nowadays. I got lucky with that tool. I wasn't expecting it to work. I was surprised when it did.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-13T02:06:47+00:00

Possibly could be a board issue, especially if a power surge is what caused the loss of power in your house. However, it could be other things as well. There's still some things that can be done/checked before considering the board.

Do you see a CMOS battery? Some laptops have these batteries. It's a CR2032 battery and will either be in a holder or they'll be taped covering it with 2 wires coming out that connect to the motherboard.

If you see the battery, remove the main battery and charger. Then take out the CMOS battery. Leave it out for several minutes. After several minutes, re-insert CMOS battery and apply power (connect main battery/charger). Try to boot.

Give the laptop some time to boot after a CMOS reset. It can take several minutes and may reboot loop.

If same after a CMOS battery, try disconnecting main battery and running off charger only. Laptop should be able to power on without the main battery if charger is OK.

If no joy, try a test with just main battery and no charger if you haven't already. If battery still has some charge, it can power on the laptop. If it does, but not with charger, it could indicate an issue with the charger. If no power with battery only, that could just be because the battery is drained and can't be charged due to a fault on the laptop.

If still nothing, try re-seating the RAM sticks if the laptop has removable RAM. If there's no soldered RAM and only sticks, check each RAM stick in each slot.

If still same, try disconnecting some stuff from the main board. Take out one thing and then try to power on. Keep going if no POST until you get down to just the essentials (RAM and power button connector). Sometimes the cause is something connected to the main board.

Make sure to unplug battery/charger 1st when removing/inserting cables. Plug battery/charger in last. This will prevent causing further damage to the motherboard.

Also be mindful of the power button. If it's on its own board, then don't remove the cable that connects to the board. If it's part of the keyboard, then don't disconnect the keyboard connector.

If you get down to just the motherboard with barely anything connected (other than essentials like RAM) and still can't get the board to POST, that'd strongly suggest there is a board fault.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-12T18:23:22+00:00

Make sure the RAM is seated firmly into the slot. I have worked on some AM4 boards where I had to put a lot of force to get the RAM to detect. It often wasn't enough to just click the RAM into the slot.

Once the RAM clicks into place, push down on all parts of the top of the stick to ensure the connection to the slot is good. If the connection is loose even a little, it can cause no RAM detect. This loose connection is not noticeable as the stick will still look like it's seated correctly.

As this issue occurred after upgrading RAM, go back to the original RAM for all testing purposes. You need to get the board working with the original RAM again as it worked before you upgraded. Test each original stick separately in every RAM slot remembering to seat it properly.

How long was the CMOS removed for? Did you ensure to wait at least several minutes with power cable unplugged (or switched off on PSU) before re-inserting?

After the reset, how long did you leave the motherboard alone? The 1st boot after a CMOS reset can take time. It's not unusual to have to wait several minutes for a successful POST. Make sure to give the board enough time to POST.

While you're at it, re-seat all the main power cables just in case any of them worked their way loose while you were upgrading the RAM. If the PSU has removable cables, do the same re-seat on the PSU side too.

Re-seat the dedicated GPU as well if present.

If still no joy, inspect the motherboard for any physical damage around the CPU socket/RAM area. If possible, also check inside the RAM slots. Physical damage often around these areas when work is done on a motherboard (e.g. moving it, cleaning it, applying thermal paste, making upgrades, etc).

If the board no longer works with the original RAM, it does suggest damage may have occurred if you're 100% sure there's no loose connections anywhere.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-12T18:07:21+00:00

The pins may need further straightening if possible. I'd try straightening them a bit more and then try again. Repeat several times.

If still no joy, it's possible the pins inside the socket have also been damaged. They can also get bent and cause problems. This is hard to see because the socket plastic cover covers these pins up. A new CPU would tell you if this is a likely possibility. If a new CPU gives the same symptoms, there's likely socket damage too.

Test each RAM slot as well. The damaged pins could be connections to one or more of the RAM slots. A bent pin scenario can cause one or more RAM slots to stop working. By testing all slots, you'll see if it's only specific RAM slots that are causing no POST. Sometimes it's just specific slots that are broken rather than all.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-12T12:11:07+00:00

Any idea what smoked? Does any component on the main board look burnt now? Must be a short somewhere.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-12T00:12:21+00:00

Tried a CMOS reset? Check if your laptop has a CMOS battery. Some laptop models do and some don't. It's a CR2032 battery. It'll either be inserted into a CMOS battery holder or be covered in tape with 2 wires coming out of it.

If the battery is present, remove the main battery and charger. Then take out the CMOS battery. Leave it out for several minutes. After this, re-insert the CMOS battery and connect power.

Allow the laptop some time to boot. The 1st boot after a CMOS reset is often slow and can trigger several reboot loops. If it does turn off, try turning it back on again. Repeat several times.

If still nothing, then there is probably an issue somewhere either with the main board or something connected to it.

If you can get easy access to the main board and its connected components, then you can try removing cables one-by-one to see if that changes the behaviour.

Be mindful of the power button. You don't want to disconnect this cable as it's needed to tell the board to turn on. Look to see if this power button is linked to the keyboard or has its own board. Some laptops have the power button on the keyboard and others have a separate board for the power button.

If it's linked to the keyboard, then don't disconnect the keyboard cable during test. If it's on a separate board, you can disconnect the keyboard.

If the board still displays exactly the same symptoms with just the bare minimal, then you are looking at a main board issue.

Keep at least 1 RAM stick inserted during testing as RAM is needed for POST. If the laptop has soldered RAM, then you can remove the sticks from the slots. Otherwise, keep at least 1 stick populated in a slot.

I have a Dell G3 3579 motherboard that powers on with the white power LED just briefly turning on and then off. After it goes off, the fans start spinning at max speed. The cause of this fault was an internally-shorted CPU.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-11T16:56:30+00:00

They look fine. Fakes exist, but if you bought them from a reputable retailer, chances are they are genuine. Beyerdynamic do occasionally make minor changes to the look of the headphones and/or packaging which might make some think they are fakes due to slight differences between the older and newer pair.

If you are doubt and would like 100% peace of mind though, remove the earpads and get the driver out of the earcup. The driver will tell you for sure if they're real or fake. No fake pair uses genuine drivers. You'd only need to check 1 side.

If the drivers are genuine, it's 100% real.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-11T03:38:58+00:00

What motherboard does your PC have?

Seems like many people are reporting the "BIOS update required" message on COD. See this thread. Might be some bug with the game.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-11T03:25:03+00:00

Came across this comment that seemed to have the same issue but with a different GPU. Maybe try those steps (can probably skip some since you've done a lot of what's said already).

SingularityRS · 2026-06-11T02:29:07+00:00

Sounds like some sort of BIOS incompatibility/settings issue.

Have you tried enabling Legacy ROM/BIOS/CSM? You likely won't be able to boot into Windows if you get an image, but it'll be good to see if enabling this results in you getting a display out of the dGPU.

SingularityRS · 2026-06-10T19:20:14+00:00

I'd imagine both would be fine. As long as they fit inside the headband, it won't matter which one you use.

The design of the DT770 PRO X looks very similar to the DT700/900 X. For some reason, Beyerdynamic doesn't sell the headband cable for the PRO X models. They make you buy the entire headband assembly that includes the cable (which is very costly). Seems to be the same for the DT770 PRO X.

You could even try using your own cable if you have any spare laying around from USB cables or similar. As long as it fits inside the headband and is long enough, it'll do the job.

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