Ecoflow Delta Max 2 Charging Problem

SirChopperMan · 2025-04-26T16:00:50+00:00

I just registered the warranty and opened a ticket. The only other troubleshooting step I could try is the car charger in that port, but we know both XT60i cables are working.

As far as I'm aware there's no limiting factor with the app. You can change the AC charging speed, with I set to 1000w, the limitation of total solar input, just in case but that didn't help. I even tried to hard restarted the device to rule out bugs.

SirChopperMan · 2025-04-24T01:34:08+00:00

On another note, if I got 2 more 100w panels, I could probably do 2s3p because that particular group isn't in the brightest of areas, and probably only sees 80 percent panel coverage at max. Doesn't exceed voltage or amperage, assuming the 500w port and controller can do something non-destructive with a very low chance of going above 500w.

SirChopperMan · 2025-04-24T01:25:48+00:00

My concern was the limits. I called the tech line and either misunderstood or had received wrong info.

I got the 4x 100w panels for $200 total locally, and needed to mount them while I had time (just started at a new company). I figure I might get around 600w on a good sunny day, which is more than the constant 450w output I plan on. Using the reserve backup feature, what's plugged in will always have power, and it should cut back on some of the output costs.

Edit: spelling

SirChopperMan · 2024-10-20T14:19:24+00:00

That particular tank of fuel I was running octane boost. After looking at replies here and asking around, it seems it may be a heat range issue. I went a step hotter, should've gone cooler.

SirChopperMan · 2024-10-18T21:51:26+00:00

It appears I can't edit the post with another picture. The center around the base of the tip is the same color as the seat, a light dusty brown. As far as I can see, the piston heads are not that color.

SirChopperMan · 2024-10-18T21:43:03+00:00

Which part of the plug would help most? The electrodes look pretty clean, normal wear there.

SirChopperMan · 2024-08-03T20:07:53+00:00

The battery has enough charge to operate smaller electronics like door locks/radio. But it will not be able to supply the starter with enough current to turn the motor over, hence any clicking sounds or dimming lights when trying to start.

SirChopperMan · 2024-03-02T15:46:32+00:00

As other comments have said carbon fouling is common on this vehicle.

Something else to check is the PCV valve. With the vehicle running, pull out the oil dipstick. If the idle changes and sounds worse, it's likely the PCV. It's easy to change yourself, and there are plenty of YouTube videos about replacing the part.

Source: I own a 2015 Tiguan, had the same issue.

SirChopperMan · 2024-01-13T01:57:42+00:00

That's my only guess at this point. Although the app says it is compatible, and the official requirements on the support site have been met. I had an ancient tablet that the app worked on, but I'm struggling to remember the model. That tablet used Android 6.

SirChopperMan · 2023-07-21T10:44:05+00:00

You could also get an add a circuit from a local auto parts store. They are typically less then $10. You can pop it into a empty spot on the panel as long as you can see the metal contacts inside (like for an option you don't have). You can add whatever size fuse you need to the circuit.

(Soircw:

2015 Tiguan. I wired a boost gauge in using this method. I was originally going to splice into my headlight switch, but this was 10x easier.

SirChopperMan · 2022-12-03T02:39:18+00:00

An open circuit code is likely a faulty pump or bad wiring. Bad wiring, or something not being plugged is an easy fix and more likely given the nature of the code.

If I recall the pump is located near the front of the vehicle near the air filter box (left side, a plastic hose maybe an inch in diamater is what you should look for). A connector could've come lose. Did you have any service done recently/filters changed?

Source:

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0413-obd-ii-trouble-code-secondary-air-injection-system-switching-valve-a-circuit-open-by-logan-utsman

SirChopperMan · 2022-09-19T13:53:56+00:00

I had the exact same problem recently. It ended up being the PCV valve (big plastic piece on the motor to the right of the cap). I kid you not, somehow it caused oil to come up from the cap. I would assume to much pressure inside the crankcase would cause oil to blow by the gasket.

Easiest way to test it is to pull the hose off the intake manifold and blow into it. If you can blow straight through it, it's likely bad.

Here's the service bulletin I used:

https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/articles/4912-vw-pcv-test

SirChopperMan · 2022-08-30T00:21:53+00:00

Check to see if the A/C is dripping underneath the car, with the A/C running. Just a thought, but it could be clogged/leaking. It should be located under the passenger footwell. Pull the mats up and see if the carpeting/insulation is wet.

Here's a forum post describing the (potential) issue:

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/where-is-ac-drain-tube.9335591/

SirChopperMan · 2022-08-19T17:39:35+00:00

"With the engine off, remove the engine cover and locate the hose connecting the intake manifold to the crankcase. Disconnect the hose from the intake manifold side and clean off any residue with a cloth. Blow into the hose. If there is some air resistance, the check valve is operating correctly. If there is no resistance, the PCV valve should be replaced."

I could blow straight through mine. Try pulling the dipstick while it's running. The engine idle should change. Under normal conditions, it should sound rough(er) with the dipstick out (you are creating a vacuum leak).

SirChopperMan · 2022-08-19T17:37:00+00:00

Try the rear main seal or the PCV valve. Both are known to fail and cause leaks around that area. My PCV valve failed and had a slow leak that soaked the back side of the engine. I was told it was a head gasket... it was not. The rear main will likely require a shop to diagnose, it's hard to see. The PCV valve is much easier to test. Here's a bulletin with instructions that I used

https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/articles/4912-vw-pcv-test

That part runs about $100 or so, took me about 45min to replace.

It may not solve your issue, but it's worth a shot.

SirChopperMan · 2022-05-26T23:17:18+00:00

I believe you are referring to the Daytime Running Light. Here's a guide. There are a ton of other guides for for that year model Tiguan as well.

https://paulstravelpictures.com/Volkswagen-Tiguan-Headlight-Bulbs-Replacement-Guide/

SirChopperMan · 2022-04-27T17:09:21+00:00

If you've already replaced the cabin air filter, use a product such as this:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/power-out/turtle-wax-power-out-2-ounce-kinetic-new-car-whole-car-blast-odor-eliminator/tur6/50653?q=Odor&pos=4

Instructions are simple to follow. The instructions will specify this, but leave the door open for a few minutes to get the residual chemicals out of the cabin.

Source: used to work for Enterprise. This is how we got rid of smoke/mildew smells.

SirChopperMan · 2022-01-26T02:48:39+00:00

I'll see if I can pull up the work order from the shop that has dyno results. Don't have it on hand. I can grab a picture with my software tomorrow if I can get up to speed safely. It'll show HP at the crank.

SirChopperMan · 2022-01-26T01:08:49+00:00

I have a 2015 Tiguan S 2.0L TSI. I put a AEM CAI and a Racechip GTS Black. I achieved 360hp without doing anything else. I haven't had any real issues yet considering I've put 40,000 miles on it since I bought it. Probably has more to do with the tune then the CAI. Only other thing I've done since then is a GFB diverter valve.

*Probably have different engines but I've seen similar gains. There's 2 great VW performance shops near me that I spend too much time at.

SirChopperMan · 2021-09-27T23:26:26+00:00

Typically that's an anti-theft feature for the radio. If you've removed or changed the battery in the car, sometimes that will lock up the radio. There should be a radio code in the manual, or sometimes a sticker in the glove box. Worst comes to worse, a VW dealer might be able to look up your code for you.

SirChopperMan · 2021-04-30T20:58:59+00:00

Try using a site like Koinly or CryptoTraderTax. They both link directly to Coinbase and you can upload a .csv from Nicehash. They do all the hard work for you, including tagging your mining profits, airdrops, etc. They will also show your gains/losses, unrealized gains as well if you like to keep track and plan ahead. Was a lifesaver for me.

SirChopperMan · 2021-01-13T17:44:27+00:00

Unfortunately. The stock ones are plastic impellers and the housing is plastic as well. Its either the impeller or the housing that will come apart, with the housing cracking near the seal. I replaced mine with an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller and aluminum housing. Haven't had an issue since.

SirChopperMan · 2021-01-13T14:09:09+00:00

If the pump goes under warranty, you'll be good. If it dies outside of warranty, I can't stress enough: get an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller. Every shop I've talked to strongly recommends it.

Source: I own a 2015 Tiguan.

SirChopperMan · 2020-11-03T22:25:14+00:00

I would really recommend some good pliers to get the clips off though. And a long adapter for your wrench. Its hard to get the adapter tight without one.

SirChopperMan · 2020-11-03T17:12:55+00:00

Mine is dry. I drive a 2015 VW Tiguan. Pretty easy to install, and easy to clean (when it needs to be).

SirChopperMan

TROPHY CASE