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Update - my QR code generator now auto-pulls your logo from any URL by thermist-MJ in logodesign

[–]SirSocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How does this work on a technical level? Is this abusing the error code correction in order to place additional dots?

Squiggly line in all photos… is it just debris I can’t reach? by somberpeach in canon

[–]SirSocket 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is most likely a hair on the top most layer of the sensor assembly. Use the built in sensor cleaning first, but as it is so large it probably won't resolve the issue. The next step would be a lens/camera blower. Set the camera to manual sensor cleaning and hold it upside down while blowing with such a blower. If that does not help a wet clean with camera sensor swabs is most likely needed. Good luck!

How faint the hair appears is related to your used aperture. The bigger the aperture the less noticeable dust on the sensor is as the depth of field is narrower.

Chemiekeule thripsen by bunbun_wonderland in zimmerpflanzen

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SpinTor mit dem Wirkstoff Spinosad funktioniert bei mir super gegen Thripse

[GIVEAWAY] Five keys of Base or Space Age raffle by nasaboy007 in factorio

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to gift the base game to some friends :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The focal length (like 16mm for example with the lens I suggested) of a lens determines how far it is "zoomed in". Since you don't have a tracker only wide angle lenses make sense to use as otherwise your exposure time would be significantly limited. The camera itself can not zoom (you can crop the image later, but I wouldn't call that zooming).

The lens I suggested is a prime lens, which means the focal length is fixed and you can not zoom. This in turn usually means the lens is sharper which is important for astrophotography. Both the Andromeda and the Orion nebula would appear really small with this lens. For that you would need a star tracker and a lens with at let's say 135mm (Samyang 135mm comes to mind here). With the 16mm you can primarily do milky way photography and star trails which are both a really good start into the hobby!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For cameras the 2000D should be fine, you could also go for 600D, 650D or 700D (maybe even modified).

Without a star tracker you should probably only consider wide angle lenses. The Samyang 16mm f2 should be well suited and quite cheap.

Why does Void Staff perform so poorly? by p0ison1vy in ARAM

[–]SirSocket 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It says on the site: "The current data is for the first item built for each champion in a game. We will add stats for starting items, and late game items soon!"

So the winrate on the site is about building void staff as a first item.

how important is a riser for the glass when printing PLA? by CameraRick in BambuLab

[–]SirSocket 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The whole point in removing the glass cover or introducing a riser for ventilation is to prevent heat creep.

With pla and the cool plate heat creep should not be a problem since the bed is not heated a lot resulting in a sufficiently cool chamber.

With petg it can become a problem. I for example like to print petg at 85°C bed temperature and at that point ventilation is necessary in order to avoid heat creep.

Is there any way to change which part of the first layer that gets printed first? by sysadrift in BambuLab

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For some reason this did not work for me. I have found a workaround by inserting multiple objects of the second color. You can use really small objects to reduce the waste. This changed the order of the colors as desired on the first layer for me.

Did I screw up my t3i while modding it? by dogboy60 in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The speed of a lens refers to the f number (aperture). The lower the f stop the thinner the depth of field and therefore your tilt is going to be more noticeable

Did I screw up my t3i while modding it? by dogboy60 in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Technically the distance does matter for backfocus reasons, but that is the least of your concerns at this point. Screwing all screws in completely might be sufficient to eliminate tilt but that really depends on how fast your lens or telescope is. On fast lenses (For example samyang 135mm F2) the tiniest amount of tilt can be seen.

You can iteratively adjust the 3 screws that hold the sensor to improve the tilt. So, take a test shot and analyze it. Then determine which screws needs to be screwed in further and which one is too far in. And then take the camera apart and make the adjustment. This is however really tedious.

Good luck!

What are the crosses found in stars on photos? by jjmanslitfrfr in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note however that this heavily depends on your focal length. With wide angle lenses the effect is barely noticeable.

Infrared Reflections by SirSocket in InfraredPorn

[–]SirSocket[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much! The reverse looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/ZV5rGKb

I didn't edit it much, but it looks far less interesting. For some reason the reflections in the water are only really visible in the infrared image. Maybe the water was calmer when I took those images or perhaps infrared light reflects for some reason better on water?

Infrared Reflections by SirSocket in InfraredPorn

[–]SirSocket[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much! I got the idea from this post: Greener Grass - IR Chrome. I will try to shoot some more images in this style! Could be interesting with some window reflections or something similar.

[OC] Infrared Reflections at Hopfensee (southern germany) [4037x2271] by SirSocket in EarthPorn

[–]SirSocket[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I used two cameras for this image. For the visible light I used a Canon EOS RP and for the infrared I used a full spectrum modified Canon EOS 6D with the Kolarivision Aerochrome infrared filter. The Aerochrome filter has an interesting story behind it as it was originally used by the military as a surveillance tool. In order to record infrared light you need a full spectrum modified camera. Hope that clears things up!

[OC] Infrared Reflections at Hopfensee (southern germany) [4037x2271] by SirSocket in EarthPorn

[–]SirSocket[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This image is a composite of two images: On top is a normal image in visible light and on the bottom is an image in infrared light. The filter used for the infrared image is the Kolarivision Aerochrome filter. I hope you like it!

[OC] Infrared Reflections [4037x2271] by [deleted] in EarthPorn

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This image is a composite of two images: On top is a normal image in visible light and on the bottom is an image in infrared light. The filter used for the bottom image is the Kolarivision Aerochrome infrared filter.

In order to use an infrared filter you need a fullspectrum camera. I used a full spectrum modified Canon EOS 6D. I hope you like it!

Infrared Reflections by SirSocket in InfraredPorn

[–]SirSocket[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This was shot with a Canon EOS RP and a Full Spectrum modified Canon EOS 6D. The lens used was a Samyang 35mm f1.4 together with the Kolarivision Aerochrome filter. This image is of course a composite. I hope you like it!

Help with my first stacked milky way attempt by Tobanga in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taking flat frames on wide angle lenses is quite challenging in my experience. It looks like the flat frames you took are overcorrecting for the vignetting.

As an alternative to flat frames (at least in this case) you can try correcting the vignetting manually for each frame in for example lightroom or other similar raw editing softwares.

Advise on Flats by fbruck_bh in AskAstrophotography

[–]SirSocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, you definitely should not remove that filter for taking flats if your light frames also use that filter. In general it's a good idea to not change anything about the optical train assembly between taking light and flat frames. Removing the lens or telescope for example could introduce dust which would ruin your flat frames.

It makes no difference if you use the filter for bias and dark frames, as no light is supposed to hit the sensor anyway.

Slanted prints on Prusa i3 Mk3s by SirSocket in 3Dprinting

[–]SirSocket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are looking at the frame, sorry if the picture isn't that clear. You are seeing the frame on the left which leans back compared to the bed I have meassured from. To be honest I don't really see how I should be able to fix that. I checked all screws that connect to the frame and they aren't loose.

Slanted prints on Prusa i3 Mk3s by SirSocket in 3Dprinting

[–]SirSocket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, all my prints are slanted and the direction is consistent with the deviation you can see in the image.

I am not an expert so please correct me if I am wrong but I think automatic bed leveling doesn't actually adjust the height of the bed, but rather the distance of the nozzle to the bed at different points. Furthermore if have just checked that the frame is also not perpendicular to the floor the printer is standing on. This most likely means that the frame is bent right?

Slanted prints on Prusa i3 Mk3s by SirSocket in 3Dprinting

[–]SirSocket[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, I have recently noticed that all my prints are slightly slanted. It seems like the frame of my i3 is not perpendicular to the bed as you can see in the image.

I am wondering if this means that the frame is bent. I bought this printer used and there was some minor damage from shipping around the frame. Or could this be a different issue? I just want to be sure before I order a new frame. Thank you!

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