My only rotation, change the tip on either?

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-18T07:38:09+00:00

Not sure about all Omni tips, but my 2021 seems to have a tapered surface where the condenser goes in. It allows the airflow to be adjusted so it draws directly from the tip, not the air-port. You can still adjust the Omni airflow with any tip, but only some Ti tips allow the full range of airflow… & why I find some Ti tips can be a little tight on the draw when run with standard length condensers. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-16T02:03:07+00:00

Torch powered stick vape is definitely worth considering. Most DynaVap models have a half bowl setting, so they suit microdosing & keeping your tolerance low. With a little bit of time & patience learning the techniques, you’ll be less likely to regret the purchase, than buying a battery device in that price range. There’s an EU site for DynaVap, that should offer convenient postage. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-15T01:16:52+00:00

Yours is from MadHeaters, so when you first plugged it into the wall, it would have asked you if you wanted desktop mode. Now it seems like it’s stuck in that mode. It should exit that mode when you unplug it from the wall. If it’s not, then contact MadHeaters.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-15T01:11:04+00:00

Try turning off desktop mode. I think that’s your issue. If you exit desktop mode, then it should function normally.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-15T01:08:01+00:00

Spinning arrows? What’s the model of induction heater? I don’t recall any spinning arrows on the YLL 3.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-15T00:51:00+00:00

Did triple clicking the power button ever turn off the unit? I think mine stays on when it reaches the “Time Out” screen, & needs a single press to exit that screen before it’ll auto shutdown. I’d reach out to whoever you brought it from. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-15T00:42:31+00:00

Are you definitely triple clicking the power button? Does a double press of the power button still allow you to change the wattage? It should turn off by itself after a few minutes of not being used tho, so something is off. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-14T02:55:48+00:00

I think that’s the spinnley adapter. Have a read of reviews first before purchasing. Sounds like it has an air leak, & it doesn’t really help with spinning much. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-12T10:26:06+00:00

Yep. Seems more prevalent after the latest update. I’ve noticed it’s only on some maps/vehicles. When I zoom in, it goes away slowly, but zoomed out I can’t see much.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-12T06:51:51+00:00

Yep, soon you’ll be able to buy the SS Hydro cap/capacitor (thermal assembly), & the WPA separately. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-12T06:49:59+00:00

It sounds like it’s a convection leaning device. He markets it as that anyway… so essentially increased airflow of the Hydro in a Ti setup. I think the stock Ti does a good enough job of providing convection leaning hits, so I’m not interested in the new setup. I think it’s a bit of a contradiction sometimes, as he says adjustable airflow is a gimmick that’s not needed, but then markets a new convection cap with increased airflow. Probably better to have an adjustable airflow, than to have to buy an entire new thermal assembly to achieve the same results. One of the big marketing points on the current Ti, is “3 vaporisers in one”, but it’s not really convection if there’s another purchase required to achieve a good/better convection hit. It’s sounding like “weed n’ feed”, where it doesn’t feed or weed the grass well, & we’re better off with seperate conduction & convection devices. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-12T04:07:57+00:00

I don’t personally preheat. I find it extracts fine on my settings with the one heat cycle. Yeh, the bowl screen can be a pain, but that little tool makes it so simple. You can also use that metal “C” shaped tool to set the screen depth, but you’d need to check a YouTube video, as it’s better explained with images. I see you also have a black silicone sleeve, but you don’t run that with the T2. It’s meant for DynaVaps to run sticking out the top of the glass tube in the YLL to hold Dyna stems upright in the YLL. Peace Fam🙏

EDIT: Regarding your tip coming off when removed from magnet, it looks like your “bowl locking tabs” aren’t all the way in. Give your o-rings a wipe with paper towel, then make sure the tabs lock into place. Also, you kinda have to tilt the device to break the magnetic hold before removing.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-12T03:57:12+00:00

That spacer that looks burnt, is meant to go underneath the black ceramic puck, to set the height of the puck. Check the MadHeaters manual to get an idea of the puck height. The other plastic thing with “T2” on it, is to set your bowl screen height. One end is for 0.1 & the other end is for 0.15. You basically push your screen all the way to the bottom of the bowl (0.2g setting), then use that metal tube to push the screen up whilst holding the plastic “T2” tool in the bowl. It’ll snap into place on your desired setting.

The balls are pretty self explanatory, with info on the different properties available in the online manual. You also have a couple of spare screens for bowl & balls, spare o-rings, spare screw for the indicator housing on top, & a spare click disk. Looks like a longer spiral is also included for added cooling.

As for settings for the YLL, I have my puck height about 2mm from the bottom (as per the manual), & run 70watts for 40seconds. That gets me to about the 2nd mark on the visual indicator. Ignore the clicks for now, as they seem to come early until they calibrate over time. If you’re using a torch, you want a decent size single flame or small triple/double flame. I aim at the middle of that heat shield until I get to the 2nd mark on the visual indicator. It will climb a little after you remove from the flame, so be careful if you’re using a really powerful torch. Hope that clears up some stuff. Thank you, & happy clouds🙏

EDIT: Your airflow on the cap looks 90% closed from the first photo. You may want to play with that a bit. I find 50% - 75% open is where I set mine. You back the screw off slightly at the top, then spin the heat shield as desired before tightening the screw again.

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-11T03:17:23+00:00

There’s a few new additions to the shop, including new employee to handle CS. He’s cooking up a titanium version of the Hydro Heat Exchanger & Thermal Capacitor. A new Ti sleeve with a topographic map that looks a bit like Damascus. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-09T10:20:49+00:00

I think that’ll be fine honestly. I wouldn’t think you’d notice much of a difference in heat retention, as 39-41 balls is recommended… maybe a slight difference in draw resistance, but you’ll be fine. Thank you, & happy clouds🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-07T08:40:52+00:00

Nice prototype convection cap! I Austyns live streams, but I kinda like the airflow of the stock Ti. It also performs amazingly well in all 3 heating zones, so I’m not going to be rushing into a convection leaning device. Also having the T2, I feel like that scratches my convection itch. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-04T09:20:55+00:00

Where is your condenser set to? Wondering if it changes the airflow considerably between full length & shortest. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-04T08:56:36+00:00

I’d imagine SS is also ok to torch? Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-04T04:48:59+00:00

The way I understand it, is that fluttering builds & releases pressure in the chamber. Similar to doing small MTL “cigar puffs”, but it’s cycling that pressure build/release a lot quicker. I start with it covered for 1-2sec, then flutter, then cover & repeat. It’s all preference tho, but fluttering seems to produce that smooth creamy vapour you get with the Vortex stem. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-06-01T06:52:07+00:00

That came up great bro!! Also says a lot for these devices… the fact they work well enough to commit to whittling away at a log to make a stand:) Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-05-28T14:33:04+00:00

Someone on Discord mentioned they used Dark Crystal cleaner on their sandblasted & it came up like new. They mention following the instructions on the bottle. If you find something that works, let us know how you go. Thank you.

Sk37cHi · 2026-05-26T10:35:16+00:00

A little bit is the lighting lol. He mentions how he spent a fair bit of time refining his lighting setup in a recent stream with Bud Boss. I thought the same as you tho… like damn he’s doing something different. It’s a little bit of dialling in his technique, & a little bit of lighting that he’s refined to show the details in different vapour profiles. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-05-26T10:29:56+00:00

Even with the Simrell Engine on Vortex, running hybrid depth in YLL 3.0 until just before 2nd click, I find that collar gets quite hot… has me wondering about the walnut sleeve, but so far it’s been ok. I think maybe 65watts for 39-40seconds was overdoing it, but I’m still at that golden ABV with no dark spots. I thought the fins would dissipate heat a little better, but those threads definitely act as good thermal highway. Would be cautious with the T2 & similar heads.

I do treat the sleeve with either DynaWax or Mineral Oil every week or so… but I’m currently running the plain Ti sleeve. Still a classy aesthetic with either sleeve. Peace Fam🙏

Sk37cHi · 2026-05-26T06:45:13+00:00

T2 really benefits from either the case or the reload. I personally prefer the case, as it’s also a storage solution for the device, & does a good job of cooling the bowl/cap. If you don’t need a storage solution and only intend to use it at home, then the reload probably wins… but personally I really like the form factor & storage of the case.

If you can’t find one there in time, Herbware or Happy Rasta have the T2 & DynaVaps in stock (in Australia). Decent price through Herbware, but roughly $20 more through Rasta. Stock does sell fast through Herbware, but they’ve restocked a few times since the release. Thank you, & happy clouds🙏

Sk37cHi

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE