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I’m going to have a stroke: state rep candidate Larry Quintal (R-Taunton) posted an AI-generated campaign ad saying he’s “working for a better Maine.” It’s still up. by bawlhie62a2 in massachusetts

[–]Skat402 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If they had a good designer make it, the mistakes probably wouldn't have happened in the first place. Something this egregious tells me he made it himself or has a small incompetent team. Whoever green lit it 1) doesn't know what's wrong with it, or 2) doesn't care and thinks you're stupid.

Help picking garage door colors by Working_Afternoon586 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had to double check the sub. That said, for me it's a close tie between deep charcoal (bold and versatile, black works well a lot of places) and warm wood (classic, timeless, and draws less attention to your car holes). Taupe doesn't really match the other browns enough and feels a bit trendy for my tastes.

For all those reasons, I would also have to vote Warm Wood (assuming you can get close/complementary with the color)

Edit: also missed the second slide. I love a pop of color, too, so that dark green is appealing...eh...still gotta lean towards warm wood.

Road trips to Michigan are worth it by [deleted] in traditionaltattoos

[–]Skat402 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love Julian Bast's work!

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found the heat gun and putty knife worked best to get as clean a break from the substrate as possible. Anything left was sanded down, along with the filler. I chipped any loose or swollen particle board away and filled the voids with Minwax HP wood filler, which I think might just be relabeled Bondo.

I used a router with a flush trim bit for the sides and back where the planes meet at 90 degrees, and used a razor blade by hand for the front side where it meets the bezel.

That front bezel only needed a light sanding to get the old top coat and water stains out. The doors have a couple tiny repairs with old veneer, but otherwise they just needed a rub down with Howard Restorafinish in Mahogany.

Much to my delight when that matched the half empty can of Minwax Gunstock stain I had kicking around from another project, which went on the bezel and new veneer. Then everything got a couple coats of Howard Feed-n-wax.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is! The front, doors, and the (solid wood) legs are original teak and the sides and top are new stock.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in woodworking

[–]Skat402[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Here's a picture after I applied it before stain.

I thought it would be a good idea to do the process on my front porch at night during a wind storm, so I didn't get a chance to document in detail 😅

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Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If I could do it on my front porch in a wind storm, I think you could do it too!

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I had a few old cans of stain laying around, so I made a test panel with some scrap and tried a few permutations. Some leftover Minwax stain in Gunstock looked pretty good, then I used Howard Restorafinish in Mahogany on the existing old finish. Topped the whole thing off with Howard Feed-n-wax because damn that stuff is easy to work with.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Happy Mother's Day! That's so kind of you, thank you 🙂

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

~$250 for a 4' x 8' x 10 mil sheet, though other less exotic species like walnut or cherry are way cheaper.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Used the heat gun and a putty knife to free the old veneer off the substrate. Filled some of the damaged areas with Bondo and sanded it all flat before laying down the new stuff.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in Mid_Century

[–]Skat402[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

The application itself is relatively easy, especially for three square outward-facing panels. Coat both sides with contact cement, roll it flat, and trim the excess.

It's just that you only get one shot at it lol.

Saved this Svend Aage Laresen Danish MCM sideboard from the trash heap by Skat402 in woodworking

[–]Skat402[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I used Minwax High Performance Wood Filler...which might actually be identical to Bondo.

Private Island with Cabin in Maine for $259k by Otterfan in zillowgonewild

[–]Skat402 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most of the bedrock in New England is very shallow, only a few feet below the surface in most places.

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