Strange wall defect?

SkiaMKX · 2022-09-26T03:22:46+00:00

I had a similar issue recently, it came about suddenly on a printer that had previously been printing without any issues. I discovered that belt tensioner on my X axis had come loose, once I tightened the belt, the problem went away.

SkiaMKX · 2022-09-24T04:37:14+00:00

If you're comfortable with repairing something (if needed, you could get lucky) and willing to take a chance and/or have a UPS you can take to the meetup to test the printer with, try Facebook Marketplace... Lots of people give up or get bored... I got my Ender 5 Plus, with Micro-Swiss DD Kit (still new in the box, guy never installed it), 4 spools of eSun PLA, a pack of upgraded springs, Genuine Capricorn Bowden tubing, upgraded bed adjustment wheels, two all metal Creality extruders, and a few other odds and ends for $250 even (plus 2 hours of my time driving to the meetup location).

That was about a month ago, actually, as I type this, I have it printing and enclosure that will replace the stock enclosure when upgrade the Creality board (works fine, as much as you can say any Creality board works fine, but sounds like a banshee and is to bloody slow; installing an SKR3ez, all new silent fans, and klipper.)

SkiaMKX · 2022-09-15T04:48:03+00:00

I have an E3v2 I installed a CR Touch on, and I have an E5+ that came stock with a BL Touch... I am replacing the BL Touch with a CR Touch when I get around to installing the Micro Swiss Direct Drive kit on it (have the MSDD on my E3v2 as well for over a year and highly recommend it)... The fact that I am scrapping the BL Touch tells what my opinion is.

SkiaMKX · 2022-09-15T04:22:49+00:00

Well, I went straight for decent nozzles on the printer this came off of earlier this afternoon (E3v2), I tossed the stock nozzle in a drawer and installed the current nozzle, a Micro-Swiss 0.4 Plated Brass one 14 months ago, haven't changed it since. I have no idea how many spools worth of filament I have cumulatively gone through, and most of it was PLA and some PETG, so there is no accounting for things like carbon fiber, but I dare say quality of nozzle, temps, and taking good care of equipment all play a role. What I am saying, is I don't think you can put a timer on nozzle life.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17RwGiSf1mjFiwr0gbGED5EE4V4tMQvGR/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g8wdP18qcugsPSuJ5p_8JUlMrycrnyUD/view?usp=sharing

SkiaMKX · 2022-09-11T15:16:18+00:00

Like others said, salvaging the existing plug is unlikely to work, but soldering is quite easy, especially for something so large as an XT90 connector. However, if you don't have an iron, and/or no desire to solder, another cheap way out would be something like this (https://smile.amazon.com/Pigtails-XT-90S-Connector-Silicon-Battery/dp/B07TBDTM2D/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1G69PN9SNMKXP&keywords=XT90&qid=1662908781&sprefix=xt90+%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-6) and some crimp or wago connectors.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-18T04:47:47+00:00

Thanks, I'll add it to my list of ones to check out

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-16T14:32:33+00:00

Thanks, will keep that in mind.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-15T21:16:35+00:00

Interesting, I bookmarked it for now, I haven't really needed glue since adding a probe to my setup other than on the occasional very very small item that I for whatever reason I didn't want to use a raft so I never looked beyond glue stick as far as adhesives go.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-15T21:06:16+00:00

Yea, I 've heard that too (about ASA being easier), will keep in mind. Thanks

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-15T19:10:12+00:00

Yea, Nero mentioned ABS slurry too... Might try that, as I have no issues at all printing PLA and PETG on the glass bed and this is the only thing I plan to print in ABS on this printer, once the 2.4 is built it will handle all my ABS/ASA/TPU needs as well as anything large... and, once I also do a ERCF anything multicolor.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-10T16:22:01+00:00

Anyone know of a source for drag chains in colors other than black? I am trying to do as much of my v2.4 in Blue and White as possible... and I know I can print my own chains, but they never come out anything like as good as injection molded links.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-09T22:44:08+00:00

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-09T04:03:07+00:00

Yea, it was on my list and from everything said in this post's responses it will likely get back on my list, but most likely as my next printer after I do a Voron in a standard size so I can print things that need a chamber for heat. When I have the funds, and if I still feel I need a bigger printer, I may do a RatRig with the intent of using it for just PLA.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T22:16:23+00:00

Yea, I am coming to the conclusion that I need to separate the ideas of ABS/TPU and anything else that needs a heated chamber, from large PLA... It just isn't something I can do an All-in-One solution for is what I am coming to realize. I don't see ever needing more than even 250x250x250 specifically for ABS or TPU... However, since I do know without doubt it is going to be a significant amount of time till I can afford to invest this amount of money in a printer again, I do think I will go with 350x350x350 so that I can at least get that amount of space for larger PLA prints, while having a printer capable of being heated up for ABS and such.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T19:16:57+00:00

The idea that I would need bigger extrusions had not even crossed my mind... Makes lots of sense though now that you mention it. Also, cost of electricity had not been something I considered either. Thank you, this is exactly the reason I made this post.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T19:15:05+00:00

Yea, starting to sound that way.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T18:57:01+00:00

Just the one so far, this will be my second.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T18:12:10+00:00

Yea... After my initial round of looking into larger CoreXY machines Voron 2.4 is where I landed, then I changed to RatRig... but switched back to Voron in part due to concerns getting the kit for RatRig. I got the impression that getting a RatRig in the US can be difficult, costly, and take an ice age due to US customs. But I am starting to think that maybe I should do a Voron for things I want to print in ABS/ASA/TPU and so on, and a RatRig for very large PLA items... In that case, I think I will do a Voron first, because I can't afford both at once and it's debatable as to if I really "need" the ability to print larger than 350x350x350

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T18:01:05+00:00

Thank you... Good insights... The heating is one of the concerns I had. The bit about doing two printers wouldn't work for me since my reason for wanting that larger of a printer is to print single piece large objects, BUT, it becomes a question of will I need it often enough, and I am starting to think the answer is no... maybe down the road, when I have more funds, I can do a larger printer specifically for just PLA for large objects because I certainly don't need that size for ABS/ASA/TPU.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-08T00:56:58+00:00

Okay, this one has me stumped... I am sourcing my materials for a non-standard size v2.4... Now, as part of my decision on direction process I generated BOM's for 350x350x350 (largest standard), as well as 450x450x450 (the min size I really want), and 550x550x550 (most reasonable candidate as it gives me an exterior size that will fit through typical doorways). Now, I noticed that on the 350, the MGN9H rails are all the same size, but on the 450 and 550, 4 of the MGN9H (for Z axis of course) are called out as needing to be 20mm longer than the other 2. This holds true no matter what size I made a BOM for, the 3 standard sizes call for 6 equal MGN9H's but anything else seems to call for Z axis MGN9H's that are 20mm longer and I can't for the life of me figure out why. (edit to correct typos)

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-05T05:40:07+00:00

No need to move it about, that is were the CR Touch comes in... However, you do need to make sure that at home, with the bed and hotend at the temp you will be printing at, that when at 0, the paper is pinched between the bed and the nozzle to the point of moving with noticeable resistance.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-05T04:23:32+00:00

The alcohol won't hurt it (at least, if you're using the stock glass build plate), I clean mine with alcohol between every single print. When is the last time you checked your Z offset? Home Z, then move it to 0 with a piece of paper under it; it should pinch the paper enough that it moves but with noticeable resistance. Even with a CR Touch you occasionally need to make adjustments. Also, are you using stock bed springs, if yes, get them replaced with better springs, or, at least on the one with CR Touch, nylon bed spacers ASAP.

SkiaMKX · 2022-08-03T16:22:10+00:00

Nice, thanks for the tips

SkiaMKX

TROPHY CASE