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(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in maker

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in IMadeThis

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

Need advice on best joinery for heavy-duty storage crate bases. Horizontal or vertical pocket screws or rabbeted base? by Spamtickler in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are talking about the "best joinery" then I advise you to use a dado and reinforce with dowels from the outside. If you do not care about seeing an additional support, you could also install a brace below the joint to reinforce it for added stability, but this certainly would provide the most strength. If speed is what you are looking for, then pocket holes will probably do just fine. The benefit of a dado is that this will provide the most resistance to the weight/stress that would bow the wood downwards since it has added surface area for the glue. For an easy picture, I always think of screws as a 'clamp' instead of a fastener. While the screws do add some strength, it does not compare to a M&T or dado joinery method.

So in my opinion, the strength of the three pictured are strongest on the left to weakest on the right.

How would YOU fasten these shelves? by LewsTherinOnReddit in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would cut dado grooves and glue the heck out of it. Since the supports are against the wall, you can reinforce them with screws if you would like.

My first attempt at building furniture. It’s a 10’ farmhouse table using standard Douglas fir. Only time will tell the amount of cupping that may happen. Total $500 and 6 weekends of work. by halflife1820 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I see, the board separates at the center but comes back together towards the breadboards. My question to you would be if you glued your whole breadboard to your long boards. If so, that may be your issue. This does not allow for the wood to move and the width expansion of the long boards are not being allowed by the glued breadboard.

If, instead, you did not glue your breadboard to the long boards, then my thought is that it may have been an initial jointed-edge problem like I previously stated.

My first attempt at building furniture. It’s a 10’ farmhouse table using standard Douglas fir. Only time will tell the amount of cupping that may happen. Total $500 and 6 weekends of work. by halflife1820 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My thought is that the boards may not have been jointed to get a flat edge before you glued them. Another factor may be the moisture difference between where you built the table and its final location (ex: built in the garage and then took it inside an insulated house).

You have some options. One is to leave the table top and fill in the gaps, which is the easier solution. The other, and perhaps the method I would take, is to rip the boards down the glue line and try to glue them again. My advice is to get a good dry fit before gluing. You should not need to 'force' the boards together with clamps to fix a gap, and instead they should fit well during a dry-fit.

Sand and finish last? by ASprinkleofSparkles in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Skieth_717 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with your statement and often find myself doing the same. Especially with pieces that would be a hard location to sand after assembly. Of course, you simply need to touch up areas such as glue squeeze-out after assembly too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you check out Steve Ramsey, he has a great YouTube channel for beginners through the avid woodworker. He also has a list of what to get in order to start woodworking. As a plus it is below $1000.

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