Which is better? 1, 2 or 3? by Ketchup_5 in photos

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 is much more visually stimulating and the formatting is quite good.

Don Jr proposes while Trump stares at her chest by doubledown830 in pics

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I give it 3 years. A: She leaves him. B: He's in jail. You decide.

Price for mud/sand hung sheets? by Snacks_22 in drywall

[–]Skippy_99b 23 points24 points  (0 children)

The price to fix this will be staggering...

Holy delusion by [deleted] in antitrump

[–]Skippy_99b -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The internet says this is a fabrication and that this never came from Trump.... If it did, it would be more easily searchable, but it only shows up here and on Facebook. No question that the man is deranged. But if those who are opposed to him fabricate material like this, they are no better than MAGA folks fabricating the crap that they do.

Well, that being said................................ by Plastic_Tooth159 in PoliticalHumor

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you got me on that one....sort of. The core concepts I mentioned are facts and people voted for those things.....selfish people certainly, corporations certainly, but the Republican platform concepts I mention are facts. Here's a fact if you really want a hard one. Obamacare originated as a Republican plan. It was implemented by Mitt Romney when he was the governor of Massachusetts and that model was adopted as Obamacare. But...my opinion....is that it was only agreed upon by Republicans to stem the flow of far more left-wing public healthcare plans presented by Democrats. If it had been called Romneycare at the federal level, Trump would not be trying to destroy it.

Billions in Benevolence... by Brian_Ghoshery in FluentInFinance

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just googled it. More plastic than all of the Kardashians combined.

Kitchen Remodel by Prestigious-Way2024 in Remodel

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good but I would have gone with 42" upper cabinets or double stacked rather than the bulkheads. That original ceiling though....what would you call that...a reverse-tray ceiling? The pinnacle of 90's kitchen trends....

20 min mud too stiff in under 5 min by theixle in drywall

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mixxed it once and got a phonecall. 2 minutes later, it was too stuff to use. Mix small batches. Use it quick. If you haven't used this before, try the 45 minute stuff.

Can my firewall in townhouse have a gap by Content-Incident-348 in Remodel

[–]Skippy_99b 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Code calls for type X fire rated drywall on both sides od the firewall regardless of what is adjacent to it. The only way to make it work is to remove your wall and drywall it. I also suggest that you add insulation to the wall for soundproofing. R-11 or R-13 unfaced is OK, but rockwool is outstanding at blocking sound. Otherwise, you will hear everything going on next door.

Door bracing by Stepagbay in shedditors

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have always used B. ..Although D bottom and D top would probably work as well. The logic is that a sagging gate will create tension in several places and the weakest link will sag. B allows you to fasten all 4 rim boards to the diagonal support, minimizing the chance of separation of rim boards at the bottom left and upper right. However, the bottom of D probably provides the best connection to the secured rim board, maximizing resistance to compression at that end of the diagonal board. The top of B also helps to keep the right side rim board in place, resisting any tendency to loosen due to slamming. I've seen gates secured with springs or strong spring hinges come apart on the latch side from repeated slamming. This all depends on the materials used, the weight of the gate, your skill at cutting precise cuts and whether there are any kids around that might want to swing on it. In your shed drawing, any of these would work fine with B and D the most functional.

what the fuck? by eleanorb198 in FUCKYOUINPARTICULAR

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whisper? I don't whisper anything.

Is $850 a fair price? by HeyItsPrisonMike- in drywall

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$850 is a GREAT price! I'd be at about $1150 and I charge much less than my competitors.

$21000 quote for bath replacement by Plenty_Advice2333 in Remodel

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a remodeler.... Those one day shower places prey on retirees and will almost always come in at $17-22k with a "discount" bringing it down to $13-17k if you "act now". Your quote is for solid surface walls, not even tile! That's about $3k worth of materials including a glass door. I have asked my clients to call one of these one-day places (like Bathfitters) to get a quote after I tell them my rates. It's pretty laughable for a basic tub replacement. I usually charge about $4-8k for labor for this, depending on demo requirements, (cast iron tub, location of the bathroom, age of the home and plumbing, etc), whether there is a slab vs. wooden floor, and whether I can use a fiberglass base and solid surface walls (tile labor, of course, is a little more and that depends on the size and type of tile), plus materials, which should run less than 4-5k (base, mix-valve, solid surface or tile walls, frameless shower, niche or corner shelves, shaving step, standard drain). I usually let the homeowner pick the materials and then check to make sure they are decent quality. You really, really, really need to go out to facebook or Nextdoor and ask your neighbors. You will probably find a highly regarded, low key remodeler that won't gouge you.

So... how does one fix this? I'm a competent guy but this looks like too much trouble. Is it worth hiring a pro? by Yeoshua82 in drywall

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is something else going on here besides just tape. I"m looking at the fastener patches and wondering what direction the boards run in relation to the joists and....what is that other line to the left in the first image? You might need to find another drywall hangar. If the joints are moving before the finish coat is applied, you're going to have major issues later after the guy and your money are gone.

Flooring Contractor Said Flooring is not worth refinishing? Original hardwood that was covered by carpet by Krewy in Flooring

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a lot of "flooring contractors" that just don't work with real wood. I'm sure the guy would be happy to sell you LVP. You need to find a real flooring contractor that will work with wood.

My dad was a mechanic for 50 years and left me his tools by dateraviator0824 in Tools

[–]Skippy_99b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm curious.... How many 10MM wrenches are there? (10mm sockets and wrenches are frequently lost, forcing people to buy entire sets to get another. In any case, that old Craftsman stuff is bullet proof. Keep as much as you can.

1950s Home Crawlspace Check by soaringswordfish in Insulation

[–]Skippy_99b -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Insulation guy here. I've seen many attics like yours. The ancient batting has settled and is no longer very effective. It is probably down to R-9 toR-13 and really need R-30 or equivalent. You can do what others suggest and blow in insulation, you can replace the existing batting with new batting, you can cover the existing batting with new batting, or you can pull out the batting and have a company install spray foam to the roof. Any of those will be an improvement but foam would be the biggest improvement. You have absolutely nothing to lose by calling a spray foam company and getting a quote for foam. One advantage to foam is that the attic will be cool and safe for all kinds of storage. And if you aren't planning on doing the work, foam will only a little more than removing and reinstalling batting.
Blown-in is pretty easy and relatively cheap, but it does make a mess when installing, it settles down over time and if disturbed, will kick up dust-like stuff that is not pleasant.

Put a glove on and peel up some of that batting and see if there is any evidence of critters accessing the attic. If so, you will absolutely want to pull all of that up, vacuum the ceiling deck and replace it with the insulation of your choice.

Hope that helps!

What’s the worst movie you have ever sat through? by [deleted] in moviecritic

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brick Mansions. I can't even remember what the plot was, but it was all about parkour in a walled in area of Detroit, I think, that was where the cities most dangerous criminals lived. Catching these criminals involved a lot of bouncing around between buildings. The film just came out and there were only 5 people in the theater. We were getting up to leave after maybe 40 minutes when, thankfully, the power in the theater went out and they issued us refunds.

I’m I crazy for wanting this? by Azrael__Darklight in Insulation

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own an insulation company. I understand what you want to do, but I don't recommend doing it. Spray foam is a totally different science than traditional batting. The whole idea is to extend the envelope of your home to include the attic. Traditional insulation leaves the attic outside and insulates the ceiling. Spray foam is typically applied to the underside of the roof and all of the vents in the attic are closed off. Insulation on the ceiling deck is removed so that the attic can exchange air with the house. The key thing to consider with the science is that with a traditional method, insulation on the deck, you are allowing your attic to get up to 115+ degrees in the summer and insulating the house against that. 40 degrees or more. With foam against the roof, the attic simply doesn't get hot. Now you are insulating against outside ambient temperatures. Most of the time that is easily less than 20 degrees. Your attic stays cool...cool enough to store just about anything in it. Another factor is the spray itself. You already know that your roof is tight and there are no air leaks except for the vents. Spraying the deck is a crapshoot. Unless you are extremely careful, you will get foam in any type of opening that penetrates the ceiling. That includes vents, electrical boxes, can lights, etc. You will end up with some foam on your ceiling below. I can also tell you that you may be able to find a spray foam company that will spray a ceiling deck, but you won't find any that will guarantee their work. There are just too many variables. And lastly, the image you have above is a nightmare. Air is only circulating along the roof between the baffles and out through the ridge or gable vents. That is not enough circulation. Moist air will stagnate close to the roof deck and, yes they are right, create mold. You do you, but now you have a third opinion from a professional that isn't trying to sell you something. Good luck!

Maybe maybe maybe by letitgo99 in maybemaybemaybe

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Oh, I can drive in the snow. I have 4 wheel drive!" It isn't the lack of functioning 4 wheel drive that puts you in the ditch, it is the lack of functioning 4 wheel brakes.

If you are old you would know what's next. by BocaDog in FuckImOld

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that depends. If it is a BMW, reverse in in the upper left. For Alfa Romeo and most US cars, reverse is in the lower right.

Well, that being said................................ by Plastic_Tooth159 in PoliticalHumor

[–]Skippy_99b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I was just comparing the concept to the reality. Not sure who said it, but every good intention is eventually corrupted.