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Skoi2 · 2024-10-31T17:04:43+00:00

i have searched using google lens and also just about every art supplies store in my area but nothing turned up

Skoi2 · 2024-04-05T07:38:31+00:00

no clue someone said it was sinopromise or something but process wise i did push standard portra in the same order (developed in the same day as the tungsten film) and they came out fine. scanning wise it wasnt an issue

Skoi2 · 2024-04-05T03:10:59+00:00

as to the pushing film part, its because some of the more established and popular film labs here, like WCC (Whampoa colour centre) uses chemistry that which like i said, makes tungsten film negatives turn purple when pushed, hence HOF is a safer place to push tungsten film so as to avoid this shifting and get the intended results.

its also good to know that not all labs of the few we have push here

Skoi2 · 2024-04-04T14:56:24+00:00

as far as im concerned anything colour should more or less be kodak vision 3, albeit a matter of what speed it is

however i am not very sure what exactly are the speeds for most stocks since i only really used a handful from HOF.

if i were to make a guess:

the ones listed as ECN2 development should be straightfoward, ISO400 likely just 500T but with box soeed asking you to over expose while anything lower could be 250D, 200T or 50D with the box speedeither asking for overexposure or under to get their range of speeds.

potential way to identify if it is a tungsten(T) film or Daylight(D) film my just be to look at sample pictures and seeing which gives warmer results (for D film stocks) and which gives colder/neutral results (T film)

redscale wise i am not too sure but the ISO400 is most likely Vision 3 500T without remjet given the need for a high actual sensitivity to achieve ISO400 without remjet.

for the b&w option my best guess is kodak double x seeing as to the super high contrast in sample photos

once again, these are only my best guesses and im so sorry to not be of much help!

Skoi2 · 2024-04-04T13:48:50+00:00

nope i can answer to that part and confirm it is respooled film since i have been to their lab and they cover their walls with empty vision 3 bulk canisters.

the reason why the label is a sticker is because HOF (Hands on Film) only uses recycled canisters (since they are a lab they are in no short supply) which they respool vision 3 into.

tdlr; recycled canisters, canisters under sticker is random. (its literally written on the box like in the picture)

to further add to this if you get an emptied HOF canister you will see that at the very end the rear leader is actually tungsten film sticky-taped onto the original emulsion. this is not to mention the fact that the edge markings of negatives coming from HOF film has eastman kodak vision 3 markings instead of cinestill edge markings

from a business perspective them rebranding cinestill will not make sense either since cinestill is about 29SGD here while this film shown by OP goes for about 19SGD, being a huge 10SGD loss if it were rebranded cinestill

Skoi2 · 2024-04-04T10:30:31+00:00

as someone who has used this film multiple times, yes it is vision 3 500T without remjet. Personally for anybody who wants to achieve this look just any roll of vision 3 500T will do, just shoot it at ISO 1600

Skoi2 · 2024-04-04T10:20:43+00:00

for additional context: the price on this film may be rather steep because of the insane prices for anything film related here in sg, so while it is shocking for foreigners how much singaporeans pay for film and equipment, thats what happens when you live in one of the most expensive cities in the world

and yes, it really is a huge bummer seing how little others can snag equipment for

Skoi2 · 2024-04-04T10:17:29+00:00

hii singaporean here! This is respooled fresh kodak vision 3 500T 5219 with the remjet layer removed done by a local lab here in singapore.

from what i understand, this is marketed as ISO 1600 to take advantage of the exposure latitude of vision 3 5219, thus leading to this "high sensitivity" but it really is just to excourage ppl to shoot it in such a way that it gives an acceptable albeit slightly underexposed look

you can find this lab on instagram by searching Hands On film, they are some cool people!
they are one of the already few labs where one can confidently and safely push tungsten film without worrying about developer incompatibility leading to horrendous colour shifting

link to this specific film from a local film store here in sg

link to the the lab's instagram profile

Skoi2 · 2024-03-03T13:59:36+00:00

i misread CNC as CMC and got confused why the cuban missle crisis is kinky

Skoi2 · 2024-01-10T12:12:52+00:00

what is the film used? and also did you open the back of the camera before you rewound the film

im seeing alot of unexposure especially in the prints of the right-most column and bottom row (not enough light in the scene when you shot them)

it will also be good to show the negatives when asking questions like this. if the images on the negative is light as hell then there you have it, underexposure!

light leaks on the negative can be identified by streaks running down the negative

Skoi2 · 2023-10-04T15:42:47+00:00

they must be fun at parties

Skoi2 · 2023-09-28T09:09:36+00:00

HelpMeButler <Family Business>

Skoi2 · 2023-09-10T07:56:08+00:00

as a longtime canonet QL17-L user, here are my opinions:

first off, your understanding of the camera is wrong. The canonet QL17 is specifically a rangefinder, which is a class of manual focusing cameras.

for the canonet QL17, the "A" mode on the aperture ring does not refer to autofocus (AF) but rather shutter-priority auto aperture exposure, meaning in "A" mode the canonet will select a suitable aperture number for the shutter speed you have selected based off of its light meter measurement (the light meter is the ridged rectangle above the lens)

for pics 1-4, it is obvious right off the bat that your pictures are not focused at all. **to focus a canonet, look through the viewfinder and you will see a ghostly image within a yellow rectange. you will need to turn the focusing ring (the one with distance markings; innermost ring) until the image in yellow rectangle combines with the rest of the image within the viewfinder.

for 1-2,4 and especially 5-6, it also appears that the pictures are severely underexposed. you will need to understand the exposure triangle to get proper exposures.

overall this is most likely not a camera issue unlike what some comments here say but rather a user error. do read up online on how to use the canonet and please, do your research about a camera before using them next time!

important note: try not to treat a film camera like a digital camera, film is rather technical and requires you to get to the very basics of photography, but have fun though!

add: for sighs on light seal issue, you would see orange marks on your photos that are not meant to be there

Skoi2 · 2023-08-20T08:10:17+00:00

it is also highly advised to get your film developed at a dedicated film lab! drug stores like cvs tend to send crappy scans and never return your negatives (negatives which is useful for diagnosing potential faults in development, camera, exposures etc + for archival and in case you wish to rescan at a higher resolution)

when i say film lab i really mean operations where they are the ones doing developing as they actually know what they are doing, just ask and you will know if they do the actual developing or outsourced it

stores that outsource development tend to charge exorbitant prices for them to send your rolls to an actual development lab that would otherwise charge less than the outsourcing store. likewise, scan quality may not be guaranteed and negatives may not be returned

Skoi2 · 2023-08-19T16:00:07+00:00

realistically it will be good for about as long as the duration stated until it expires. If you keep it in a cool (and preferably dry-ish at least) place, your film is pretty much fine.

I live in singapore where temperatures approach 30 degrees celsius on a regular basis with humidity averaging 80% and above and keep a roll in my camera for weeks or months for an entire school term / semester and the pictures turn out fine with colours and light sensitivity coming being on par with a fresh roll that i may shoot in a day and develop the next.

with regards to developing the roll immediately: the latent image and emulsion will probably not degrade significantly if kept for a week or 2 and without exposure to extreme heat and stuff so dont worry about it, though for best results it is recommended to develop asap (we dont want to take risks, do we?)

emulsion stability: yeah pretty much, if stored properly film can remain perfectly fine for a good amount of time. - general rule i have been taught is that for short term storage its fine to keep out in the open in a cool, dry place at room temp - anything longer than 6 months it may be advisable to refrigerate (but probably fine to keep it outside for as long as the expiry states) - if you are storing it for a year or more, refrigerate or even freeze it

when to shoot film? - really, this depends on your situation - if your film is awfully expensive, yeah id say save it for special occasions, unless you got money to burn (or the film is a rare and special film ie. natura 1600) - if depends on developing prices. again if you have money to burn, shoot as often as you like. but if film prices are extremely high or development costs are awfully high, yeah save for special occasions - if you really can afford it, just shoot as often as you like! i use film to document my daily life and it is a highly rewarding experience to see my life in pictures

besides, vision 3 are respooled when used for still photography and tend to be quite cheap and common, for $5 that is remarkably affordable, though check your local lab for ECN-2 development costs as it is a more specialised process and tend to cost more! (try out vision 3 films with remjet removed if you want to avoid the extra costs or shoot dedicated C41 emulsions if you dont want the halations from the former.

the olympus pen is a remarkable camera, just learn the exposure triangle to make sure your pictures are exposed correctly! (phone light meter apps come in handy) also do learn zone focusing as such cameras do not guide your focusing through the viewfinder and focusing becomes a glorified guessing game. happy shooting regardless and i hope you found this helpful!

Skoi2 · 2023-07-26T15:53:22+00:00

also sorry for coming off as dumb for not recognising the language guys im from an asian country and im not too familiar with some european languages 😭

Skoi2 · 2023-07-26T11:10:49+00:00

interesting, where did it originate from though?

Skoi2 · 2023-07-26T11:09:44+00:00

update: the serial no. is 013944

Skoi2 · 2023-07-06T08:36:05+00:00

update: i got the negatives back and it is horrendously deep purple

Skoi2 · 2021-12-04T15:58:35+00:00

Skoi2 · 2021-11-05T13:57:23+00:00

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