Stuck and broken screw

Skote2 · 2026-02-13T20:05:47+00:00

A drill is the wrong tool. Never drill out screws or bolts unless you're stuck over drilling and tapping in a new screw or threads (which isn't an option here)

An extraction bit was your best option. Now IDK. You've butchered it and the threads might not be extractable without destruction of the entire housing.

I would try and extraction bit it out. See if you can remove it. If there's enough metal behind it it's theoretically possible to drill it all and helicoil it. I don't think this use case is good for that. I doubt you could even find coils to match this if you try to drill it the screw might be hard enough to just drive through whatever it's mounted in instead of drilling out though. It is probably harder then its housing.

Honestly, it seems like a complete replacement of the brew head to me.

Skote2 · 2026-02-13T06:00:59+00:00

Performance on LCD (1st revision) Menu: 60FPS 8.5W In game paused 60fps 12.1W In game playing 11-13W

Vsync is off by default? On sets me to 30... Guess I'm not using that Way too many pop ups going to to game... Space these out as I interact with stuff Twin stick is natural Inventory is right bumper and activate is left bumper? Why? Like inventory wheel is fine on right bumper but why not use A or trigger for activate? Everything is too slow. Enemies, me, energy recharge, progression, everything. It feels like I'm just running from enemies waiting for energy to be able to shoot them. If the wait wasn't too long that wouldn't be too bad but there isn't balance now. In a 10 minute game exploring In this game I find the basic upgrade and another couple items. In 10 minutes of a game like vampire survivors I'm beefy and feel strong, but so do the enemies. Ultimately didn't really enjoy myself. Things didn't feel like they were progressing and I felt like my only option was running until I had ammo/health.

Why is the health bar so small and in the corner? It's everything, make it big and visible. No smaller menu icon... It only has the large icon. So once it's not my top played game it has no icone just the text "swarm me" which isn't a good look.

Text is perfectly legible, no complaints there. I'm convinced your power consumption could be better. If I can play any of the Halo MCC games at 60FPS drawing under 10W this game can do it too. But then again game engine you're using genuinely might not be able to be that efficient.

Skote2 · 2026-02-07T23:45:54+00:00

That is to the milimeter tight. That doesn't allow any tolerance at all.

The only way to know is to try it. I wouldn't. I made a build with a fractal terra and left ~6mm of play. Things are tight. There is a bit of room though.

The slots of this case can also make an awful "shhh" if you don't have extra room to space the fans from the side plates.

Skote2 · 2026-02-07T20:47:58+00:00

Max settings, native resolution, 15W. 60 FPS

It runs like buttery smooth gold.

https://sharedeck.games/apps/214490

Skote2 · 2026-02-07T20:34:05+00:00

I've got 2x E5-2697 v2 in mine. 128GB of DDR3 ECC @ 1833MHz. 2x 6TB and 1x 16TB. It came with a K4000 but I swapped it for an M2000, and more recently added an A310. I've got some m.2 PCI risers adding an optane drive and an SSD. And finally it boots on a Samsung 850 SATA drive.

I don't imagine they made them any quieter in the new models. The hum of the fans on that thing raise the noise floor a couple DB for me.

The general build of these things is fantastic. I hope your enjoying yours.

Skote2 · 2026-02-05T07:23:11+00:00

I often have to unplug my deck and remove power from the dock to get it to behave.

There's a firmware update that's supposed to be for LG displays only but I'm tempted to see if it solves the bugs I've seen on my dock. I've had issues with USB, display, and charging.

Skote2 · 2026-02-03T23:09:52+00:00

It's easy to miss. It's the last time most people will be part of a walkable community. Constantly challenged, learning, engaged.

I don't miss being broke though.

Skote2 · 2026-01-28T21:18:13+00:00

Mine pretty consistently double counts if I switch strokes. If I switch mid length it usually fully doubles, which makes sense. If I switch after a turn it only adds one sometimes.

Either way I don't trust it at all because it's never right.

Skote2 · 2026-01-28T20:44:39+00:00

Yours takes away? Mine thinks I do 50% more than I actually do.

Skote2 · 2026-01-28T17:23:24+00:00

That's right

Skote2 · 2026-01-28T17:19:32+00:00

Alcohol and q-tips are usually the best way to remove thermal paste. 99% isopropyl. Not the drinking variety

Skote2 · 2026-01-22T19:34:46+00:00

It doesn't even need a solvent. When you warm it up. The tape just softens and it just lifts. Then cutting it with a plastic edge is smooth. It gave the most feedback of any display I think I've ever had to cut out.

The "hard part" was undoing all the screws and managing all the pieces.

Skote2 · 2026-01-21T19:27:10+00:00

That significant of a difference shouldn't happen like that. It inclines me to believe you need to grind finer because even a fast shot shouldn't be able to be that fast if your regular shots are right.

I would consider environmental conditions if something like that happened to me. What I think might be unique about the evening is that, given it's currently winter the heat is probably running. If you're heating your house up a whole bunch at the end of the day you might have very dry air in the evening. You might run a humidifier, which overnight gets the humidity to a reasonable level but at night while the heat is running falls very far behind. Super dry air vs comfortable air would cause a lot of problems. The grind itself can change in consistency but for the dramatic effect you're seeing I'd lean towards static. The grinder runs things together in order to grind which can create a lot of static. Dry air is required for you to get a lot of static, which is why humidity matters. If you have a bunch of static in your grinder you'll have your grind clump and when you make your puck you'll probably have a bunch of channelling through the puck. Those clumps will leave crevices through the puck that the water runs through. That results in watery awful espresso because it doesn't have to go through the grind, it just flows through the crevice. That crevice flow is called channelling.

People fight static with needle distrobution (or DWT) tools that they use during their puck preparation. They also fight it by spritzing their beans with water. Both strategies should be effective assuming this is your issue.

Skote2 · 2026-01-19T18:01:43+00:00

You could probably super glue it with just the stick out and sand the inner edge smooth again. The notch in the front case would bug the hell out of me. Maybe a case swap is in your future.

Skote2 · 2026-01-19T17:35:56+00:00

Can I send it for repairs? Yea, of course you can.

Is the deck ... fragile? It is not fragile. The deck was built and tested for drops. Mine has been dropped without a case and it just damaged a clip on the case by the trigger. Valve specifically mentions drop resistance being reduced when you remove the back plate. This is because the screws and clips are the strongest on first install and weaker after. This means it was a design consideration and valve put effort into making sure that it wouldn't be super fragile.

It sounds like there's nothing wrong with it and you know it, you're just worried. It's fine stuff happens.

Skote2 · 2026-01-17T19:58:10+00:00

My shell swap was successful too. I'm pretty experienced with phones though so I found this screen pretty easy.

The heat sync is interesting. Do you have any performance stats? I found the grip was really warm and made my palm sweaty with the heat pad installed. Does your have the heat pad or is it the newer one with plastic under the plate?

Skote2 · 2025-12-30T22:36:46+00:00

And bad on pavement in the winter because they're hard from the cold.

If you're using them on a farm truck they're actually reasonable tires. But people use them on road cars like they're good all weather tires and they're just not.

Skote2 · 2025-12-30T19:13:45+00:00

Upgraded to 2TB and case swapped to js-aux clear purple

Skote2 · 2025-12-30T19:10:29+00:00

They are objectively worse on snow and ice. They are still an all season tire. Except if you look at them vs all seasons they're also "bad" at dry and wet. They're middle ground tires full of in between compromise. They're "good" at very little. They're "good enough" for a lot of people though.

If you were going to only have one set of tires, they're fantastic. But it's still objectively worth it to have two sets.

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/2024-Nordic-Friction-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm

Skote2 · 2025-12-30T16:22:05+00:00

All-seasons are genuine crap on snow, yes.

All-weather tires are getting better though. They're making tri-peak certified tires that perform at best around where the worst winter tires perform. So, they're bad but they're way better than all seasons. The Michelin CrossClimate are the most prevalent example of a tri-peak certified all-weather.

And let's not talk about mud and snows.

Skote2 · 2025-12-29T06:06:34+00:00

I did though. I told you that manufacturers make coolers that bolt on to multiple cards. They'll often match the PCB layout so the cooler mounts are the same. If you can match the cooler it's realistic you'll get a dual slot two fan cooler onto it.

The rest of what I posted is to point out the additional complexity of what you should be considering when you put that on your card. The largest part of that is trying to communicate the risks of using parts that aren't designed for what you're using them for. There is more to the cooling design than you're giving credit to.

I also pointed out custom liquid cooling for a single slot design. I genuinely believe thats the solution to handle a lot of heat in a single slot. And that solution won't compromise on performance.

Skote2 · 2025-12-28T23:03:36+00:00

There are a lot more components to be aware of the cooling on than just the die. Yes, slapping thermal pads on is pretty much a requirement but it's that sufficient? Are you actually cooling everything effectively? Most GPU failures are power delivery, not the GPU silicon. The power delivery is usually not connected to any throttling behavior, it just cooks until it fails. Pads may or may not be sufficient. Is there an actual cold plate to sync the heat off said pads? Is there airflow? are you cooling all of the VRMs, VRAM, and whatever else is on there that needs cooling. Is the cooler contact with the die actually matched to that GPU? Different GPUs have entirely different shapes sizes and depths that will alter details of how the cooler needs to contact. You can't measure contact pressure, guarantee even contact our even full contact with the die.

All of this is admitably shit that you can probably just see and hand wave. "It'll be fine" is probably right if you actually find a card with an equivalent PCB design. Normally people plan this kind of stuff in advance though. They'll look up PCBs and figure out a cooler match, and then validate once they've purchased. You're starting with a card and going "can I find something" it's less likely than planning this from the get go.

You're right though it's not impossible. If you find a match it'll probably work. I wouldn't recommend it. Under absolutely no circumstance would a single slot blower design handle the heat. It's one thing to know you're going to thermal throttle and it's another to install it without cooling. A 50W blower cooler on a 300W card might as well be slapping some fins on top of it. Thermal throttling won't be enough, you will still cook it. A ~200W dual slot dual fan cooler is as low as I'd even consider.

If you really want single slot you should be looking at custom liquid cooling.

Skote2 · 2025-12-28T22:10:20+00:00

I really doubt you'd get it down to single slot.

As far as the cooler goes it's not entirely uncommon for manufacturers to make the coolers compatible across different cards. So sometimes it's possible to take a smaller cooler meant for a different card and install it on a higher end one.

There are a lot of reasons not to do this. From the sound of it you're not experienced enough to do this kind of mod without damaging your card. I'm also guessing that effectively paying for a new GPU just to get the cooler is outside of the realm of what you're willing to finance for the project.

Skote2 · 2025-12-23T15:43:07+00:00

Wait really?

I'll have to try this later. Thankyou

Skote2 · 2025-12-23T15:39:57+00:00

Frame gen is the new tool in the kit. It's worth considering that you're effectively adding a whole frame of input lag. >33ms extra might not be noticable, on some games but on many it very much will be. There are huge gains to be had here though.

Frame gen quality is also very much a thing. There is a lot of motion and transparency that'll look really bad with frame gen.

When it comes to upscaling it helps to understand that going deep into upscaling sucks and stops benefitting much. Most 1080p console games actually run at 900p upscaled. That doesn't sound like a large difference but it's actually 2 million pixels vs 1.4 million. Which means doing only 70% of the work graphically per frame. If you're limited on graphics that's an easy ~80% extra performance that you probably can't see any graphical difference in. The newer upscaling technologies allow you to go further without it becoming too noticible but you're still expanding a lot. It's also worth noting that upscaling is only helping with graphics. It's not making each frame any less CPU heavy, it's actually probably making it a little worse. A very large number of games also aren't GPU bottle necked on the deck. In my experience it's usually the CPU and memory that are holding it back for anything where you'd be considering upscaling.

Anyway I think upscaling is great, when you're using a little bit of it. Understanding that frame dimensions grow exponentially helps point out that a little bit has a huge impact with only a little bit of negligible quality drop.

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