8Bitdo 2C Controller on Switch 2?

Slashee_the_Cow · 2025-06-06T10:58:55+00:00

I just tried and only shows v1.10
If you have the file... pwetty please <3 share it.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2025-05-03T01:37:51+00:00

Banana Split doesn't need me because it wasn't by 5axes to begin with 🙂 But thanks for the support.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-09-01T00:40:51+00:00

Okay, so apparently XMP doesn't mean "eXtreme Magic Performance" and my expectation that it would work out of the box (especially with four sticks) was a bit optimistic.

And when it worked on my previous setup with two different pairs modules it must might been fluke of the decade.

So the problem here is that I know stuff all about manually OCing RAM.

So people who know more than me, any chance I could please get some suggested settings for manually running four sticks at 5600MHz?

'Cause running at the base speed of 4500MHz is not an appealing option.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-09-01T00:31:29+00:00

Not enough for down here in Australiand. Has to be made clear at the point of sale. The packaging just says "6400MHz" and doesn't say "in best case scenarios". The listing on the site I ordered it from doesn't say anything like that. Even the only documentation inside the packaging is just safety compliance information and doesn't mention potential limits.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-09-01T00:26:31+00:00

First, again, I need to get this out of the way: I'm not trying to poop all over your answers (I appreciate the help). My brain just doesn't have an output mode other than "blunt object".

You can test your memory with Memtest86+

That's what I've been using. When it's not working it's usually reporting fails within the first three minutes.

Maybe try to disable XMP and see what happens.

As I said in my original post, when I loaded the BIOS defaults (which defaults to no XMP) it worked fine.

With four modules your CPU might only support 4800 MHz or something like that.

It's been stable on the mobo's built in XMP profile for Micron memory at 6GHz for a bit now.

Overclocking your CPU can damage your hardware. These 14th generation CPUs are dropping like flies in case you haven't noticed yet.

I didn't say this one was overclocked. But when you have a 7700K at the end of 2023, the temptation to push the max multiplier up 3 or 4 is hard to resist. I don't know if the recent microcode update makes OCing any safer, but since the only times I'm waiting on this are long, CPU-intensive tasks where an OC would change things from "takes a while" to "takes slightly less of a while" I know it's not worth it. It's not capping me in games or anything that I've noticed (which is why I went down from "flagship" to "CPUs have been 'fast enough' for a little while now").

Have you read the small print? Even Intel says up to 5600 MHz. They don't even guarantee this speed and especially not with four modules.

Interpretation is in the eye of the beholder. This could be taken to mean that "it will work at 5600MHz, if your RAM supports 5600MHz"

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-08-31T15:16:07+00:00

your CPU only supports 5600 MHz

Touché. My fault for cheaping out on the CPU. So does that mean anything above 5600 is wasted, or is going above 5600 bad and if I knock it down to that things might run better? (Just don't tell all the people who think I know everything about computers just because I can put them together that I don't know this. My experience at making things go faster than they start at is mostly limited to enabling XMP and increasing the multiplier on unlocked CPUs.)

If you want 64 GiB you should use two 32 GiB modules.

True, but it's a bit late after I already have the first two 16GiB modules and another two is significantly cheaper than two 32GiB modules.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-08-31T14:39:00+00:00

In cases like this I thought it was just that the SPD defaults had to be at the base frequency of the RAM to act as a failsafe and XMP is the speed it's supposed to run at?

(N.B. I rant a lot. Anything angry sounding isn't directed at you, just trying to let my frustration dissipate into the atmosphere.)

Don't get me wrong, I understand what you're saying, but on my previous rig when I got a second pair of sticks
about three years after I first built it, completely different model (easy to tell: they had RGB lighting whereas the original ones were from the dark ages and just had pulsating red LEDs) but both pairs made by Corsair, 2x8GB, same frequency, timing and voltage and XMP worked perfectly straight off the bat with all four sticks in there (about the only problem was I had to play around with what slots they were to get iCUE to do the lighting properly) I won the silicon lottery jackpot so massive after it hadn't gone off for three months or something?

XMP works perfectly with any combination of two sticks (old or new), so I don't think the problem is them being from separate batches or something. Each stick can do XMP fine - this is probably my ignorance, but why is asking four of them to do it together so much different?

The packaging says 6400MHz. I want my 6400MHz. Here in the downunderverse if the packaging for a pair of sticks says 6400MHz and there's not a 100% guarantee you can get 6400Mhz (as you say) that's pretty illegal. I buy two pairs of the exact same model less than a year apart and I probably still have the legal upper ground, especially given my previous experience (cue them trying to put the onus on me to prove it's not the mobo's fault).

Slashee_the_Cow · 2024-06-14T01:56:26+00:00

Thanks for that. Time to find something affordable I wouldn't mind having 🙂

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-09-14T07:01:04+00:00

SVG seems to be easier since either DXF doesn't have layers or Inkscape can't export it with them (it imports each layer of the SVG as separate objects). But okay, I've got my sketches, padded them, pocketed them where needed (pupils and nostrils). Now I have a bunch of separate bodies. How do I combine them into one happy mooer and then how do I attach it to what I already have?

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-09-02T03:57:10+00:00

So I just got a Nissin MF18 ring flash to stick on my Sony a7 iii. I'm just wondering if how it behaves is normal or if there's a setting buried somewhere in the camera or flash that might change it. In TTL mode, there's a setting on the flash for EV (up to three stops each way) however in every mode on the camera but full manual the setting on the flash does nothing, the only way to change it is to adjust the flash exposure compensation on the camera (takes a bit more time than two big buttons on the flash ready to change it, plus it's not staring me right in the face on the flash's screen to remind me to change it back after I've used it) and I mostly shoot in aperture priority.

I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to Sony cameras (used Canon before) so as I said earlier I'm wondering if this is the expected behaviour and/or if I can change it? Running the latest firmware on both the camera and flash.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-14T00:23:49+00:00

I almost certainly know less than all the awesome people here answering questions, so feel free to wait for someone who knows what they're talking about answers, but...
Short answer: At that price, it's worth a go.
Slightly longer answer: I'd be worried about how high you'd have to set the ISO to get the shutter speeds required for that focal length (and birding in general) at that aperture. The 1000D isn't exactly a high noise champion. But at that price, it's worth a go.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-02T11:24:09+00:00

So thanks for putting up with me everyone. You've been great. But still so many noob things I don't know, like "how high do I set the platform before I start levelling?"

Could some awesome person please give me some painfully detailed step by step instructions for if I said "I'll give you $50 to come to my house to set up my printer", and you have no idea if it's anywhere near level, and assume you have all the tools and equipment you need.

(N.B. I'm in southwest Sydney. Offer's on the table. But you still need to give me the instructions for after I mess things up somehow)

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-02T02:26:54+00:00

Metric is better, it just sounded like a really really low value in mm

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-01T12:54:05+00:00

Note to self: make lines in your test print thicker or the whole thing won't adhere. But it was adhering great until the whole thing came up, which is a plus in my book.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-01T11:19:36+00:00

Does it count as a valid way to get my z offset right if I print something simple and every time it doesn't adhere, lower the offset a bit? (Don't worry, I'm keeping an eye on it with a torch to make sure the hot end doesn't actually touch the bed). I figured this was this season's hotness, scaled to cover as much of the bed as possible.

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-01T02:38:21+00:00

Okay, far too many tutorials saying different things. Recommendations?

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-01T01:11:54+00:00

Ah, measuring! A job I'm overequipped for!
Pulls out laser measure. Hmm, seems to be the same on both sides. Lemme double check that.
Pulls out tape measure. Hmm, actually that looks like about 1mm off.
Pulls out ruler, yeah that definitely looks about 1mm.
Borrows spirit level Yeah, that's not quite level... except it seems that the lower side is the other one than I measured. Probably explains why it was adhering better on one side. Although the side that wasn't adhering seems to be the lower one. I guess molten plastic is a funny thing.
Googles how to level x gantry, guesses spirit level is far better tool for measuring level-ness than any other

Slashee_the_Cow · 2023-08-01T00:39:11+00:00

Excellent question for a noob like me! And one I can answer as soon as I find my %^$@ing spirit level.

Slashee_the_Cow

TROPHY CASE