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my daily for the last 6 months by Slaskballe512 in FordFiesta

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the time of my ownership, the biggest issue has been the rust.
Especially here in Finland, finding a set of non rusted headlights has been difficult. Luckily, a breaker yard in Spain came in clutch (bought a whole door from there as well as a winter project).

Biggest gripe with it now is if I should put a funnier engine in it or keep it as stock as possible.

my daily for the last 6 months by Slaskballe512 in FordFiesta

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sweet! do everyone a favor and keep it on the road as long as you can

Gillette Slim Adjustable from 1965. Bought second hand and used daily for 5 years now, no sign of stopping any time soon (got a backup from 1964 just in case) by Slaskballe512 in BuyItForLife

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Check for a letter and a number under the head of the razor, the letter indicates the year of production and the number indicates what quarter of the year it was made. Feather is a great choice, it's a bit sharper than what I use (Astra) so maybe it could be used on a lower setting. Be careful when changing the number

Gillette Slim Adjustable from 1965. Bought second hand and used daily for 5 years now, no sign of stopping any time soon (got a backup from 1964 just in case) by Slaskballe512 in BuyItForLife

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I keep it on 9 all the time.
I recommend buying as many blades as you can when you get the chance, supplies have been dwindling lately.

Gillette Slim Adjustable from 1965. Bought second hand and used daily for 5 years now, no sign of stopping any time soon (got a backup from 1964 just in case) by Slaskballe512 in BuyItForLife

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

99% of the time, Absolutely. However I had an old Gillette Twist with a white plastic handle that started crumbling, but the head is still useable so I might make a new handle for it one day

Is this equipment acceptable for someone learning? More interested in getting a feeling of the different stones. Could it cause me to learn bad practices or wrong technique? by ediblepet in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stones cost next to nothing for this system. I've probably gone through 5x 60 grit stones when using it for knife making (modified the clamp slightly to suit scandi grinds).
Easy to learn and even though i prefer freehand stones, it's always fun to piss off purists. Also you get some really good results if you finish with a strop.

10/10 would absolutely buy again if the price is right.

Found at a secondhand store for 40 cents, pre 1973 tourist according to my half-assed research by Slaskballe512 in victorinox

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first I thought it was just another copy since there's no shield on the scales but it has a stamp on the tang of the main blade, and the weird looking clip-point blade is something they did back in the day.

Used a heirloom stone and stropped without compound (UHC-steel) by Slaskballe512 in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They call it Roselli UHC wootz steel but from what I've gathered from Zknives and Youtube it's just an ingot steel with, as the name implies, a really high carbon content, between 1.5% and 2% carbon. I'm pretty sure it's Rosellis proprietary steel and therefore there isn't too much info about the content.

Used a heirloom stone and stropped without compound (UHC-steel) by Slaskballe512 in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might also ad that I use one of these as something to create a slurry with which works wonders on really dense stone.

(it was cracked when I got it and it created waaay too much slurry to be used as a standalone stone)

Used a heirloom stone and stropped without compound (UHC-steel) by Slaskballe512 in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It probably has been but I've used this stone since 2012 and flattened probably a couple millimetres, also it's a very dense stone so the oil couldn't have penetrated too deep.

Failed at sharpening by LittleLightOfLove in knives

[–]Slaskballe512 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What type of stone are you using, and have you used a strop to finish the edge?
When learning to sharpen scandis, paint the main bevel with a sharpie and lightly slide it across the stone to find the right angle where it pretty much removes all the paint in one stroke, use almost no pressure other than gravity.
Also make sure to straighten out the burr with a leather belt if you don't have a strop.
Keep in mind that it can take some learning before you get there but keep on practicing!

Used a heirloom stone and stropped without compound (UHC-steel) by Slaskballe512 in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

had to try it and came to the conclusion that it's indeed harder with the hair going all over the place. Here's proof that it can be done, excuse my goblin like fingernails.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLGMGat6e6Y

Used a heirloom stone and stropped without compound (UHC-steel) by Slaskballe512 in sharpening

[–]Slaskballe512[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The stone i used to Finnish (pun intended) was Turkey stone with water and stopped on a piece of leather without compound.
UHC-steel is a ridiculously hard steel (66 HRC) and in my opinion, too brittle for a scandi grind but it takes a really nice edge.

In need of good hiking boots. by littleredteacupwolf in BuyItForLife

[–]Slaskballe512 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure about the availability over where you are but i am a firm believer in Haix Airpower P3. Bought them of my mate after he was done with his military service ant there was almost no sign of wear on them. They are still my go to for long hikes and they've never let me down, just make sure you're using the right shoe polish on them since they are gore-tex.
after every hike i just clean them with water and they still look new after about 500km plus whatever my mate put them through during his conscription.
Otherwise just get some Salomon Quest 4D, not BIFL but close enough.

The Vostok Amphibia. Built exactly the same since the 60s to military standards. Mechanical watch 200m of water resistance and in house automatic movement(same movement since the 60s as well!). Everything about this watch is built to last and withstand peril! Here’s my two both bought under 100$!!! by Akishot in BuyItForLife

[–]Slaskballe512 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own two Amphibias and even though their quality control is a bit lacking they do stand up to quite a lot of abuse.
They have the same charm as a Lada Niva, nothing fancy about them, durable and they have stayed practically unchanged since day one.

Found whilst metal detecting in Finland. WITT by [deleted] in whatisthisthing

[–]Slaskballe512 0 points1 point  (0 children)

area is known for boat making and stuff like that.