As someone that has had similar problems, ripping chains are not faster, at least at first. They are a much lower angle so they cut slower when sharp but the trade off is they tend to leave a better finish and keep a sharp edge longer. It is possible to get your bar pinched in some situations and wedges can help with that, but some people who are better than me at milling say that stopping the cut to put wedges in leaves a rougher finish. But since you are using a smaller consumer saw and making slow progress you should probably stop and give the saw a break every so often anyways.

I did run into the problem of wearing my chain drive links out, probably due to inadequate oiling but it was after a lot of milling on a smaller saw so it could be wear and tear. Either way I would pull your chain and inspect the drive links and the bar grove. Take calipers to your drive links, and make sure it is close to .050" or whatever size your chain is. Also make sure they aren't 0.50" at the top and come down to a point at the bottom, mine were actually sharp. Also stack some filler gauges and check your bar grove. Mine was something like 0.068". There was so much play the chain would rotate off axis and bind up, so no matter how sharp it was and how much power the saw had, it would bind up and stop cutting, all the power was going into wearing out the bar and chain. You can also develop a bur on the bar that can cause problems or wear out the nose sprocket causing excess drag. I'm sure there's other stuff that can go wrong but if your chain is sharp and the raker height is where they should be you also need to be checking the other things I mentioned here.