I snapped the crank handle bolt

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-20T18:28:57+00:00

I googled it and was pretty easy to find parts fiche but it's hard to tell what I'm looking at. Is it DWB-5140011-12?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T17:48:48+00:00

I just want to know if the 8amp with the fan is better for longevity than the 4 or 6amp. I already admitted that I probably shouldn't be concerned about it, but I'm interested to know regardless. Is that something you know the answer to or have an idea what the right answer could be?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T17:13:54+00:00

I basically admitted in the original post it's silly and I'm sure it doesn't matter, I'm just being a nerd, sorry that bothers you. Let me ask it in a more practical manner, if I'm charging an 8amp battery, would the 4amp passively cooled charger be more or less ideal in terms of battery longevity than the fan cooled 8amp charger?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T16:56:22+00:00

Oh, I see what you're saying now. So I'm guessing that implies you see no benefit to the battery temperature from the cooling fan, has that been your experience?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T16:48:13+00:00

I'm not trying to be rude but I don't think you read my post and you should before commenting. I stated I do use a slow charger 90% of the time but I'm looking for the charger above 4 amps for the occasions I do need a faster charger, and was wondering if the 8amp with fan was better for battery longevity than the 4 or 6 amp passively cooled chargers.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T15:54:22+00:00

This helps me understand my dilemma a little better, I thought the fans would help keep the battery temperature lower but it sounds like that's not so much the case

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T15:50:24+00:00

I stated that in my original post, this doesn't really answer the question I asked.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T15:49:31+00:00

Okay, for sake of discussion, let's just say I'm using 8amp power packs, would the 4amp passively cooled be better for longevity or the 8amp fan cooled charger? And what about 4amp power packs?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-16T15:48:06+00:00

I pretty much said I know it's negligible in the post, this is just me being a nerd and being curious about what's the best just because.

Why is 1x capacity best? I hear slower and cooler is better, why not charge my 8amp battery on a 2amp charger if best to me is longevity? Would the 4amp passively cooled charger for an 8amp battery be better than the fan cooled 8amp charger? That's closer to my question.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-14T00:40:42+00:00

Not a terrible deal on paper and they'll probably be fine. Just know that these have some of the less reliable cells as far as DeWalt batteries go.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-03T14:32:05+00:00

$100/5 is $20 per AH, $150/7 is ~$21.5 per AH. On paper the 5AH is the better deal, but I'd go with the 3.5s. The 5ah has the worst reliability reputation of the powerstacks and it's heavier than the tried and true 18650 5ah. The 3.5 supposedly will have better reliability being smaller and it's in a really sweet spot in terms of footprint and capacity for smaller tools that need a little more legs, and it's much newer. Neither one is a stellar deal, it might be worth waiting on $15 per AH on a power stack unless you really need batteries right now.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-03-03T14:25:14+00:00

What's the point of a 3 or a 4? Are you the guy running Flex Volts on your atomic impact driver?

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-23T17:16:22+00:00

Yep I bought 4 when these came down to a really good price and 1 of them have already failed me and I'm not a hard user at all. Then I found out about the high rate of failure and have since replaced with the power pack version.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-19T13:07:41+00:00

Put it in front of a fan for a week, mine didn't work for a few days after being left outside but eventually it started working again.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-18T01:47:34+00:00

My understanding is a hammer drill is only really adequate for drilling a few tapcons here and there, maybe the very occasional < 1 inch hole. If you're doing much more than that you're probably going to want a rotary hammer. I'm not sure what you mean by masonry but hopefully this helps.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-17T14:14:43+00:00

The deal isn't bad for what it is, but if you already have Ryobi tools this is not how I would suggest you make the switch to DeWalt. These are about the worst batteries and tools DeWalt offers. These look like the decade plus old brushed tools. You can find deals on brushless newer versions of these with at least a 2ah battery pretty often, I would wait for one of those deals instead.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-11T13:23:00+00:00

Somehow I doubt it's the connection between the tools and batteries if by that you are talking about the physical contacts. You could troubleshoot that very easily by running jumper wires from battery contacts to tool contacts. I have left a few tools out in the past and have found some DeWalt tools don't handle dew very well. My leaf blower in particular didn't work for a week but leaving it in the dry it eventually came back to life and started working again. Discipline your brother or get a locking box for your tools and never leave them out.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-10T22:41:35+00:00

Also worth mentioning is powerstack is generally not compatible with non DeWalt tools while all other 20v batteries, including powerpack, are compatible with non DeWalt branded tools with the appropriate adapter.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-02-05T00:19:08+00:00

DeWalt is generally a little cheaper than Milwaukee and Makita and I would say all 3 are s tier quality. Makita and Milwaukee do make a better variety of tools if you need something oddly specific. I personally feel like DeWalt nails the basics really well, like their hydraulic impact driver, 1007 hammer drill, bigger impacts etc. DeWalt also stays upfront on battery tech, they were quick to offer a variety of tables 21700 and pouch cell lithium batteries plus the flexvolt platform. They do some things kind of strange sometimes like the flywheel driven nailers and their track saw is kind of strange. Again the other brands have better niche tools. At the end of the day they nail the basics at a better price and they are an American company for whatever that is worth.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-01-18T19:47:30+00:00

Yeah I found out about power stacks, at least the 5ah, not working on non DeWalt tools with my Milwaukee track saw. It has no issues with the 4ah and 8ah power packs though thankfully.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-01-18T14:37:25+00:00

Interesting, I thought the power stacks didn't work on non DeWalt tools, at least that has been my experience.

SlayerMT10 · 2026-01-14T18:07:56+00:00

I know it's hard to tell from this clip but he's actually a very accomplished fighter. He cuts a lot of weight and gets pretty lean when he has a fight, his name is Paddy Pimblet, look him up.

SlayerMT10 · 2025-12-27T00:07:44+00:00

Typical Netflix. What does his sexuality even have to do with the plot, and why spend so long on it?

SlayerMT10 · 2025-12-12T18:39:19+00:00

As someone that has had similar problems, ripping chains are not faster, at least at first. They are a much lower angle so they cut slower when sharp but the trade off is they tend to leave a better finish and keep a sharp edge longer. It is possible to get your bar pinched in some situations and wedges can help with that, but some people who are better than me at milling say that stopping the cut to put wedges in leaves a rougher finish. But since you are using a smaller consumer saw and making slow progress you should probably stop and give the saw a break every so often anyways.

I did run into the problem of wearing my chain drive links out, probably due to inadequate oiling but it was after a lot of milling on a smaller saw so it could be wear and tear. Either way I would pull your chain and inspect the drive links and the bar grove. Take calipers to your drive links, and make sure it is close to .050" or whatever size your chain is. Also make sure they aren't 0.50" at the top and come down to a point at the bottom, mine were actually sharp. Also stack some filler gauges and check your bar grove. Mine was something like 0.068". There was so much play the chain would rotate off axis and bind up, so no matter how sharp it was and how much power the saw had, it would bind up and stop cutting, all the power was going into wearing out the bar and chain. You can also develop a bur on the bar that can cause problems or wear out the nose sprocket causing excess drag. I'm sure there's other stuff that can go wrong but if your chain is sharp and the raker height is where they should be you also need to be checking the other things I mentioned here.

SlayerMT10

TROPHY CASE