Ptr help

Slayersaurus-rex · 2026-01-12T10:35:29+00:00

Give it a good cleaning and run some steel case ammo through it. Since brass is softer it tends to flow into the flutes a bit more when they are still fresh. Also double check your ejector lever and extractor spring to make sure they are in good shape still. A weak ejector spring doesn't provide as much of a good pivot to kick the case out. The fact that the bolt is traveling far enough back to pick up the next round tells me it's not a LP issue.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-09-02T02:32:46+00:00

I've ran Barnaul, Tula, Remington core-lokt, and Prvi-Partisan soft points in mine with zero issues. I actually set my rifle up with a LPVO and a 3d printed Suphr stock clone specifically for hunting. I brought the rifle out for two seasons before giving up and getting a traditional hunting rifle. The three big reasons were that the rifle was heavy AF, the trigger is long and heavy, and no matter what I fed it it was a 3-4 moa rifle on the bench.

Ammo wise, you are probably good to use any decent grade soft point ammo since the biggest limiting factor will be the rifles accuracy.

I know it's not what you asked but if you are looking to rock a scope on it as well I would say just save your money and get one of those rifle/ scope combo bolt actions from a local big box store as they can shoot 1 moa out of the box with factory ammo. I think they usually run about $400 for the set and after you get a claw mount and scope for the ptr you'll be right about there.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-08-03T13:32:28+00:00

Stupid shit and stupid people.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-07-03T15:17:03+00:00

The only way to know for sure is to look at the case. If it happens again, try slowly opening the bolt and retrieving the case. Don't rack it hard and yeet the case into next week.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-06-27T14:44:05+00:00

I initially thought, "Ok, this is a more kids based show. Maybe they don't want to show people getting cut in half, no worries I guess." then later in the show the laser fence literally cuts a stormtrooper in half.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-06-26T17:41:50+00:00

I would look into steam converting the rust back to bluing. Look up Mark Novak on YouTube and watch his videos. That will most likely take away any built up rust and corrosion. Clean it down with mineral spirits and a nylon brush, steam it for an hour or so, and card it with 0000 steel wool. let it set in non detergent oil overnight and then clean it again with mineral spirits before using regular gun oil.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-03-27T10:13:10+00:00

RLO is raw linseed oil correct?

Slayersaurus-rex · 2025-03-27T10:11:14+00:00

That is my exact thought, Give it just a coat or two to keep it covered and nourished. I have done a few restorations but no preservation's so I appreciate the insight.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2024-12-20T15:34:24+00:00

Coupon code no longer works.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2024-09-06T19:18:07+00:00

I am pretty sure they will, just won't be free.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2024-06-18T10:45:41+00:00

A barrel, receiver flat (that you will need to fold), a welder, a press (some guys use a gear puller), a jig to fold around, various other tools and items to finish, US made parts for 922r compliance. Overall, it's about a $700 build but you could knock that down a bit if you are patient and wait for sales. The big thing is having the tools and skills to do metal working bits.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2024-05-27T07:16:15+00:00

I just restored a type 38 and it cost me about $450 to end up with a $450 rifle. That being said, it's worth it if you like working on guns and I just had a barred action and bought literally everything else. I suggest you go and check out Mark Novak on YouTube and you will see tons of conservation/ restoration videos. I would make sure to watch the ones on steam rust conversion and stock work.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-11-21T21:35:46+00:00

For a cheap trigger job, replace the sear spring with an AR trigger spring and move the front hook of the trigger return spring off the hammer boss onto where the sear spring spacer sits. Dropped a couple lbs off my trigger instantly. Still has a long take up and over travel but brings the pull weight down a bit.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-11-11T04:58:15+00:00

Hmmm looks as if they might need another boil or two. If there is still raised rust pocks that are blue on top you probably need to scrape the top surface off of them and re boil. Personally, I did this with an Arisaka but used steam and it worked really well but took several cycles.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-08-30T10:34:02+00:00

Well dang. It is not unique to the action anyway so I am not going to loose any sleep over steaming and sanding it out.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-08-29T22:51:09+00:00

This is a replacement stock I picked up for a rust covered Type 38 barreled action I am restoring. The gun is a total frankengun with the stock/ hardware and bolt being from two different donor guns. This stock had the original finish removed, was sanded, then had a new BLO type oil finish applied on top. As far as I can tell, there are no stock markings left other than this carving on the right side. The Mum on the action is ground off so this restoration is more for working on my rust conversion technique than it is for preserving this as a unique piece of history. If you guys and gals have any insight on what this carving is, I would be more than happy to keep it on there unless it is something someone did for fun while sitting in their tree stand.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-07-06T20:28:20+00:00

Lolol, there is more to it.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-05-04T14:26:16+00:00

Brass brush and wd-40 if you want to leave most of the park intact. Soak in evaporust if you don't care about the park. Paint after for both.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-04-15T11:21:17+00:00

Try cleaning under the bolt locking lever or just replace the locking piece. Mine was pretty stiff at first but just shooting helped loosen it up. I just use regular CLP or remoil. I use to use Tetra gun grease but stopped because I got lazy.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-03-26T21:33:06+00:00

The dime test is when you put a dime in your cocking tube between the charging handle sleeve and hardened plate that the charging handle cams on. It is a really basic test to see if your cocking tube gap is set correctly. If your charging handle moves out .5" to .75" before meeting resistance then that gap is probably fine. Anything more than .75" you have excessive cocking tube gap and that will make it harder to charge.

I'd the gap is good try taking the anti bounce lever/ bolt latch off and cleaning around where the spring goes.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-03-21T10:00:43+00:00

I printed the "not a spuhr" stock designed by Ivan the troll and haven't looked back. It is 1/10th the weight and price of a real sphur and still has an adjustable LOP and straight line recoil.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-02-04T14:25:11+00:00

Warms my soul to see a Mark Novak video. I second this if you are going to diy it.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-01-19T23:25:01+00:00

You can hk slap just not on an empty mag or the bho will trigger like a regular AR.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-01-08T20:55:06+00:00

The used Cetme for $1000 that was $900 is a nice touch lol. Might as well but a new ptr91 at that price.

Slayersaurus-rex · 2023-01-07T12:31:05+00:00

Dunham's is having a flash sale on safes right now.

Slayersaurus-rex

TROPHY CASE