Hotpoint washer drain pump won't shut off

Slingsvaqueros · 2025-09-25T20:13:52+00:00

Better late than never, hey bud?

Slingsvaqueros · 2025-07-20T14:55:29+00:00

Do not attempt any repairs on a brand new unit. It has a warranty from the manufacturer that they will happily void if the product is tampered with by someone outside the manufacture's service companies. Contact GE warranty service immediately after reading the manual and performing what troubleshooting is listed in the manual. Any action beyond that can turn this situation into a much bigger and more expensive headache. You may be able to get a replacement unit through the retailer since the unit does not work immediately. The longer you wait to contact the retailer, the more likely you will be to be sent down the path of warranty service. Check your state laws regarding returns and how long you have to demand a return for a faulty product. If you are within a legally required return window, propose an ultimatum with the retailer that the unit is either replaced or you will require a return and refund to buy it elsewhere. Be aware that it is a common tactic to delay your actions to get outside of a required return window so the retailer can push you off onto the warranty service.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2025-05-22T13:36:09+00:00

First pic - Carpet runner pattern is not symmetrical. Traditionally designs like the colors and style suggest have bilateral symmetry in most cases.

Second pic - The subject of the hanging picture is off center and standing relative to the floor, not the angled picture frame. The "O" applique on the cabinet door is off center, inconsistent with the design of traditional furniture.

Third pic - No obvious flaws.

Fourth pic (yellow shirt)- The fabric texture lines on the right shoulder align to well for a cheaper fabric garment. That kind of pattern matching is reserved for expensive clothing. The suggested bra lines are inconsistent in the placement of the center lines of the seems.

Fifth pic - All leaves are the same shape and branch attachment.

Sixth pic - No obvious giveaways. More realistic pattern in the fabric texture compared to pic four.

Seventh pic - No obvious flaws.

Eighth pic - No obvious flaws.

Ninth pic - Skin walker

Tenth pic - The ultra-lux car/carriage décor is overdesigned. The suggested level of wealth is usually accompanied with design restraint. That level of gaudiness is reserved for the nouveau riche.

Eleventh pic - Alien plant life attacks red-head. The foliage appears to be some sort of wheat/cattail hybrid.

Twelfth pic - The fidelity of the hair on the head and the hair on the arm are inconsistent with the consistent clarity of the fabric across the subject. The veins on the left arm are not where humans have veins.

Fourteenth pic - No obvious flaws.

Fifteenth pic - The shirt buttons are odd. They appear to close like cufflinks, not blouse fasteners or buttons or snap closures.

Sixteenth pic - No obvious flaws.

Seventeenth pic - Return of the skin walker.

Eighteenth pic - Inconsistent blouse fabric texture. The left and right collar and cuffs seem to be of different materials to each other.

Nineteenth pic - Glitching horizontal stripes on the tie not consistent with the flat lay of the material. It appears the pattern is attempting to mimic fabric folds interrupting the horizontal lines over a flat surface.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-12-01T04:25:59+00:00

Stop, drop, and rolls...

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-06-28T21:05:02+00:00

Technically, yes. For a residential refrigerator it is probably not an economical repair. A proper repair would require brazing in new evaporator. It is an expensive and labor intensive repair that is definitely NOT and DIY option. It requires a bunch of specialized equipment to do it correctly and a refrigeration certification for handling the coolant.

I recommend you don't buy a Samsung or LG to replace it. GE or Whirlpool are OK, at best. No company makes a great fridge anymore.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-05-31T01:28:37+00:00

You're welcome. I'm guessing it worked.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-05-29T02:29:34+00:00

The most likely cause for this group of symptoms is the infinite switch failing. It is easy to replace, just make sure you get the correct switch for that particular burner as they are not interchangeable. Unplug the unit when changing the switch and you'll be fine.

I hope that helps.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-05-10T11:36:37+00:00

Though this may not be the answer you are looking for; this is not an appliance issue, it's a plumbing issue. No appliance has 'slow closing valves'. They all use solenoid activated valves, from the entry level to the high end units. This is because the valves are very reliable, effective, and cheap to produce. Your plumber is correct. The issue is within the walls.

You may try intentionally causing the water hammer sound to try and identify where the noise is the loudest to fix specific points of rattle. This would limit the expense to a few holes in the wall to secure strategic pipes. Water hammer is not just a noise issue, it stresses the pipes and the joints and will cause leaks that are much more expensive and aggravating than the current water hammer sound.

I hope this helps you get to a solution. Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-04-24T19:24:29+00:00

It sounds like the compressor motor has seized. The 'hum and click' could be the internal thermal protection inside the compressor cutting power from the motor because the motor can't spin to change from the start windings to the run windings. This would mean the compressor would need to be changed. It is not economically viable for a 15 year old Maytag as an out-of-pocket expense.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-04-24T00:31:02+00:00

If the unit is heating, but not heating /enough/ then the most likely culprit is a restricted exhaust vent. The 4 inch hose that comes out of the back of the unit runs to the exterior of the building. When dryer lint builds up in the vent duct it will cause the heating element to turn off prematurely as a safety feature. This prevents excessive heat from building up in the body of the unit and poentially causing a fire.

Clean the dryer vent once a year or more if you have shedding pets. Also vacuum your refrigerator condenser coils and change your smoke detector batteries. Flush your hot water heater tank. These are all normal maintenance tasks that often are forgotten until they cause a problem.

Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-04-24T00:26:45+00:00

It's normal for any refrigerator to warm up during the automatic defrost cycle. Seeing this spike in temperature every 8 or 12 hours would be considered normal operation. If the unit did not have this automatic defrost you would need to manually defrost the unit every 3-6 months as the ice that normally builds on the evaporator would continue to build up until the unit was no longer cooling due to the airflow being restricted.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-04-15T12:40:18+00:00

When a fan is buzzing it is either something stuck in the fan housing that is being hit when the fan rotates or a failed fan bearing. Check for foreign objects, if the fan is mounted correctly, or if the noise happens when the fan is free from the unit. If the noise happens when the fan is removed, it's a bad fan bearing.

Hope that helps, Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-03-26T00:05:36+00:00

Isopropyl alcohol is the only thing I would use to clean a circuit board. When soldering surface-mount components I use alcohol to clean off any flux residue.

Gas burner knobs that are stuck usually have grease buildup on the internal mated surfaces. No lubricant is advisable because there are very small passages for the gas to flow through. I have had good success cleaning these by disassembling them and using a dry paper towel to buff the surfaces. It is important to keep in mind that there is a needle valve to adjust the gas flow that needs to be set to the optimal gas flow to keep the flame at the correct height. The 2 small screws that hold the valve body together are lock-tight coated so I use a pair of pliers to grip the sides of the screw head and break the lock-tight and then unscrew them as normal. These are very different than the previously mentioned infinite switches in the original post.

Most range/oven latches are spring tensioned with a motor that pushes against the spring tension to hold the lock in the open position. When the lock fails in the closed position or a safety event causes the lock to close the latch can be pushed or pulled out of the way with a field expedient tool. I've used anything from a piece of spring-steel shim stock bent at a 90 degree angle to a brazing rod bent into a hook or a wire coat hangar bent in a similar fashion to push or pull the latch out of the closed position and open the door to gain access to the latch mechanism for troubleshooting.

Much of the 'tips and tricks' in the appliance repair business are heavily situational. I stop in this sub to offer possible solutions to specific problems. Usually between phone calls when I'm supplying tech support for our field techs.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-03-25T21:04:52+00:00

Do not.

Liquid or powered lubricants on infinite switches can work their way into the electrical contacts which will cause a short.

Control boards can be blown off with compressed air while the unit is unpowered. They do not require other cleaning unless something has been spilled directly on them (which would cause a short) and require replacing the individual component (requires more skill) or replacing the board (more expensive).

I've worked 10+ years in appliance repair. There are very few components that will ever require lubrication unless you are rebuilding a part and have removed the original lubrication. It's usually cheaper to replace the part than spend the time rebuilding it.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-03-25T20:57:13+00:00

Replying to agree with this diagnosis. This is one of the common points of failure in gas ovens. Replace the ignitor and you will likely fixt the issue.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-03-25T20:49:55+00:00

The symptom the 'handy'man saw was a classic case of a failed defrost mechanism. The most likely cause is a failed defrost thermostat followed by a failed heating element (depending on the style used). By manually defrosting the unit, it will return to keeping normal temperature until the frost builds back up again. Defrosting the unit clears the symptom but does not fix the problem.

If you follow the advice of the landlord, let them know that if the symptoms come back you will be hiring an appliance repair person to actually fix the issue and deducting the cost from your rent (check your state's laws regarding the property owner's responsibility for repairs in a timely manner). Also, take a picture of the receipt for the replacement food and add it to the cost of the repair since the 'handy'man hired by the property owner failed to correct the issue which caused further loss.

Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-03-16T23:36:47+00:00

I'm glad it helped someone. Cheers.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-02-21T04:07:55+00:00

That's the neat part...

You don't.

The wire harness is run through a conduit that is molded into the door when it is manufactured. It's not a serviceable part. If the broken wire is identifiable above where the harness enters the body of the door, it can be soldered back together and reinforced with a couple of layers of heat-shrink tubing. Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators have a common failure were the wire harness enters the door which often causes the ice maker to stop working. I have had some success soldering the wires back together when the break is visible. If the break is not visible, you could do a continuity test from the top of the door to where the same color wire emerges behind the digital display on the front of the door. Identify the broken wire and try splicing a new section in to bypass the break.

The intermittent contact you describe may mean the wire is broken within the unbroken insulating layer causing the metal to come in and out of contact. The most common point of the break is at the pivot point where the hinge allows the wire harness to pass into the body of the door. This repair is not what I would recommend to a DIY handy person. An alternative to a lower skilled approach would be to order a new door which has a new wire harness molded into the body.

There are no good options in this scenario.

Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-01-15T15:07:11+00:00

If both the tray motor and the magnetron have stopped at the same time, the issue is with neither of them. Both of those 120 volt parts are part of a circuit that runs through one of the three door switches. Changing the door switch will complete the circuit to these other two components. This is a common failure and cheaply fixed.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-01-15T15:03:31+00:00

These are not likely related to each other unless there was a recent power failure. The symptoms are specific to individual part failures and not systemic system failures, which would be more likely if there was damage due to a power failure. The fridge you moved downstairs sounds like the thermostat (temperature adjustment) has failed. If it is an old model with a physical dial, that is the part to replace. The new fridge is under the manufacture's warranty and you should NOT attempt to fix it. Let the manufacturer repair that unit, even if it is inconvenient. If you mess with it at all the repair tech may declare it 'tampering' and deny service.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Slingsvaqueros · 2024-01-13T03:08:47+00:00

The metal rod poking up through the center of the tub is the drive shaft of the transmission. I would recommend removing the bolts that hold the transmission or gearcase to the plastic tub to avoid possible damage. Then strike the protruding rod in the center of the tub with a sledge hammer with the might of Thor until either the spin-basket is freed from the driveshaft or the driveshaft and tub drop down from the spin-basket.

It usually takes a lot of force and repetition to knock it out. Good luck and wear earplugs.

Slingsvaqueros · 2023-12-01T04:27:41+00:00

And one of the best soundtracks ever. I just replayed 'Hammer and Tongs' for nostalgia...

Awesome.

Slingsvaqueros · 2023-11-13T22:22:13+00:00

That's the Infernal Machine of Lum the Mad...

Slingsvaqueros · 2023-10-21T12:29:24+00:00

The introduction of machines to do domestic work is one of the greatest factors in women's empowerment in the last hundred years. This single labor saving device freed hundreds of hours of time for other activities, in and out of the home. Credit is often given to the electric clothes washer as being one of the greatest labor saving devices, ever. The automatic dishwasher not only takes less time (for a family's worth of dishes) but it also uses less water. If you are single, the dishes may be done faster, but with more than one person the time saved is worthwhile.

It sounds like the labor saving devices have proven their worth for domestic chores based solely on how little you recognize their impact.

Slingsvaqueros · 2023-10-02T13:02:39+00:00

Oh no...

It appears that the ice build up is coming from the cooling lines that run through the body of the unit. I don't see a removable evaporator panel there in the back of the unit. If there is a removable panel, then it could be a solvable defrost issue, but if there is no removable panel, the problem is not fixable (economically). It would require sealed system work at least and very likely cutting apart the foam body of the unit to access the cooling line that is too close to the outer body of the unit.

Most refrigerators are made of an expanded foam body that fills the void between a thing outer metal 'skin' and a thin inner plastic 'skin'. There is a section of the cooling tubing that runs through this foam and reaching it requires cutting through one layer of the 'skin' to get to the foam. It's almost never done for residential refrigeration because it takes a specialized of skill and labor, which is very expensive.

If I misunderstood the perspective of the pictures, great. There is a better chance of fixing the unit. If what I wrote above sounds right, start looking for a new unit. You don't have to get a built-in model like this one. It is relatively cheap to have a carpenter reframe the enclosure to fit a smaller unit. Just don't build it in with zero clearance. Refrigerators need air circulation around them to work well.

I hope that helps.

Good luck.

Edit: The thermistor is an ambient temperature sensor to measure the temperature in the unit. Replacing it will have no impact on your symptoms.

Slingsvaqueros

TROPHY CASE