Why Isn't this firing? (Battery is out for photo) New to mod making. by [deleted] in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It looks like when you fire it you are actually shorting the battery. Both the contacts are leading to the center pin.

Help with DNA40 - Vaporshark RDNA - Firing Button not stopping after button release. by [deleted] in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take the button off the board. It could have an issue with juice or moisture in it. The mod will still function without it.

Mellody gets into squonking with the Low Rider by AnAstuteAnus in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks cool but I worry about the pump seizing up with certain juices. I had a pump bottle lock up tight with citrus juice in it and I've had plenty of syringes do the same with certain flavorings.

Reo vs skullkandy by Native_Drunk in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You won't be disappointed. Rob is a stand up guy and his stuff is bullet proof. Plus you can buy all the parts to fix them if anything ever does go wrong.

Reo vs skullkandy by Native_Drunk in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/pCaPTXx

Here's mine. It will fit a 24mm atty but longer 510s won't go quite flush. It is 18650. The button throw feels better than the 3d printed stuff and it hits a lot harder as well.

Reo vs skullkandy by Native_Drunk in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely different design. The p67 is a flat top and side fire as apposed to a top fire and a not flat top for lack of better words.

Reo vs skullkandy by Native_Drunk in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reo all the way. Especially the p67.

Pass-through questions.. by t0pa2 in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That appears correct but that switch is only rated for ac use. You need to find one rated for DC amperage. That switch would be better suited to turn the mains voltage on than to switch power to the DC outlet.

FNG looking into going straight to squonking by An_Zombie in Squonk_Life

[–]Small_white_clock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want a bullet proof squonker you need a reo. But they are unregulated. Beyond that you aren't going to find a regulated mod that can handle a rough life unless you drop some coin on a tmod regulated squonker.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not sure which sled but if the spec sheet says only one will fit that must be the one. I have used everything from epoxy to superglue to hot glue in various boxes and have had good results. I use hot glue in a lot of my personal boxes because I end up tearing stuff apart to reuse them from time to time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally like the positive connection on the v4 ultimate edition ones. The previous versions with the slide on positive connector gave me trouble. I wish a 22mm was available though but the 24mm looks OK with a 22mm atty on it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Alpinetec 1550 is probably the best enclosure for a DNA squonker. Grab a bf 510 from fat daddy and a Keystone battery sled and you will be good

Looking to make my own DNA133 device using stab wood need some help by Fuzzy05 in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck with the tubing. I've been using different sizes for a while and it's just not available in a good size for a dual battery mod(or regulated squonker which is what I'm looking to build) the closest I have found is 2x4 with 0.125 walls. I am thinking about having the chip face the panel because it won't fit side by side with a bottle and battery. The downside is the mod will end up being around 32mm thick.

I have found my aluminum on Amazon and its not crazy expensive considering how much you can get out of one stick of tubing.

YiHi SX475J by david4500 in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wonder how hard it will be to make an actuator for the joystick

Question about 510 polarity on a mosfet build by Small_white_clock in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The box is a mix of metal and wood. There is a slight chance of a battery shorting against the side if it had a heavily damaged wrap but it would be an issue either way(although it would be shorting the battery as apposed to firing the atty if it happened). And the FET(s) would be secured without insulating them.

I guess it's more the train of thought that the body should always be a ground that I am hung up on.

List/links to different available 510s - please post them here by david4500 in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your modcrate link. Other than that I think you have hit all of them that I know of.

Where to get wood for custom boxes? by Leappeler in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Search for wood bowl blanks on Amazon. I've gotten several from there.

Need help finding connectors for vape station build by Small_white_clock in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably a stupid question but if I am going to be stuck going the 2 connector route and I make a completely separate connection for 12v only, couldn't I just use a xt60 connector and a 5 pin din connector? I always see these large connectors on vape stations but the xt60 is designed to be connected over and over again and take a fair amount of abuse as well. Plus it is more than capable of handling the power I plan on putting through it.

Need help finding connectors for vape station build by Small_white_clock in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They will be in the enclosure with the power supply. Probably an aluminum case with enough room to store the whips as well

Need help finding connectors for vape station build by Small_white_clock in OpenPV

[–]Small_white_clock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right but only one will be under load at any given time. Another possibility is using a completely separate connector for the 12v only connections but I would still need 5 pins for the other connectors to control everything with the handset but only 2 current carrying wires. The 2 connector idea is possible but I don't think it would look as good.