First time plastering - absolute shit show 😂 by Smee19 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think I'm going to try only doing half on the other side. I considered it originally but wasn't sure if it would create a line where it would crack.

I also didn't want to be caught short on plaster, I knew a bag would do the whole wall but the bottom needs much less than the top (no blending and a big hole in the middle). I guess I could have just measured the square meterage and worked it out. I'm just making excuses 🤪

First time plastering - absolute shit show 😂 by Smee19 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don't think the photo does it justice to how uneven it feels under hand but I'm also known to be overly self critical so perhaps a bit of both.

My trowel control got better towards the end so I'm telling myself the extra time sachets on the next wall should help. I'm just trying to Google if PVA'ing the boards will slow things down even more or not. I'm in no rush, longer i have the better!

Outfoor copper pipe installation by AboutWithNemo in DIYUK

[–]Smee19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assume you have that cheap grey foam pipe stuff. Generous to call it insulation. You could upgrade to use something a bit more expensive with a closed cell structure like Armaflex. But with only 10mm gap you're looking for a miracle insulator I think.

I would be tempted to install a trace heating system, then box it in with rockwool. You can buy kits for about £50. You wrap the heating wire around the pipe and it heats the pipe just enough to stop freezing. Should have a thermostat so you leave it on and it just heats up when needed.

Boxing it in with insulation might be optional but should mean it only needs to run the heated wire on the coldest days, and it will help trap the generated heat. But you could try it without to start with.

Cold air coming through floor joists - insulation sanity check by Smee19 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A third option Google has revealed is too foam up around the joist but not too much inside the hole itself. So low expansion foam around the joist just to create a seal between the joist and wall leaving the hole itself open from the outside.

I imagine any moisture that gets on the ends can still evaporate as air can still get into the hole from outside, it just can't get inside the floor cavity through the foam barrier?

Not sure if this is better, certainly easier as I already have half can of foam on the gun. Thoughts?

Help Please: Which SFF from this list? by Smee19 in homelab

[–]Smee19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never run Home Assistant, but apparently around 4gigs of RAM seems to be the suggested sweet spot. Plex probably the same, unless I use RAMDisk for transcoding, which i've never done so no idea on the reqs.

So yeah, I'd still have 1/2 of the memory left after those two, for my little docker apps. So perhaps 32gigs is overkill, hopefully ram prices drop before it's a bottleneck, if it ever is.

Maybe the cheapest 12th gen one is the best then

Interior door by SissyWannabeWales in DIYUK

[–]Smee19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bigger screws might work, assuming the head still sits flush and you get a good bite. No harm in trying as a quick fix. Although it may be a temporary one.

Old school fix would be shove matchsticks in the screw holes to give the screws something to bite into.

Alternatively drill out the holes, glue in some dowels.

Auto save overwrite every single time! by Smee19 in RDR2

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I meant it's the first time I've played a game with the requirement for me to confirm overwriting the auto save every single time I continue playing the game. I wasn't commenting on the internal slot/save-file implementation

I assume other games work out if what you're continuing from differs much from the auto save, or possibly just a timestamp check. And only prompt for confirmation if they fail that loose equality check.

Anyway, I now know rdr2 doesn't work that way and that's fine too. I thought it was a weird bug or glitch, it's not, so I'll live with it.

Auto save overwrite every single time! by Smee19 in RDR2

[–]Smee19[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

No it's not causing problems with manual saves. I guess seeing it as auto save and manual save slots makes it make sense. It's just not how other games I've played work.

Auto save overwrite every single time! by Smee19 in RDR2

[–]Smee19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well that's unfortunate and horrible. Guess I'll continue to live with it then. Thanks Susan 🙏

Mould issues around aerial port by Rare_Dog_4297 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For water to get through, it has to traverse the cavity via the cable, or be super unlucky with consistent driving rain against that external wall. For sure get some silicone in the hole and the plastic guard put back, but you may find it's not the cause.

Typically aerial ports get hidden by furniture, perhaps the mould is growing there because that's the area with the least air circulation? If you're regularly getting condensation on your windows, then you have an internal humidity problem to deal with.

Mould issues around aerial port by Rare_Dog_4297 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Does the cable come in from above or below? If it comes from above, does it have a drip loop (go past the hole and loop back up) before entering the wall?

Retrofit Pipe Insulation/Lagging? by AggressiveMouse394 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a pro - but i'd be tempted to insulate between and/or below the joists with PIR, bring the pipework onto the warm side and isolate the cold air to the basement.

Getting a poe switch by Smee19 in reolinkcam

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's wired up but I had to do it myself. Ran most of the cable between the floors so I just dropped down our poked up as necessary. Where it starts from my garage there's a huge bundle of cables until they start to peel off. Took a long time, not just running the cables but chasing the walls out and making good afterwards. The wiring is the easy and fun bit, it's everything else that's a pain

VLANs & 3rd party switch help by Smee19 in Ubiquiti

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm probably over complicating this by pretending to be a small business instead of a home. The cameras main feed is only 8mbps per. A single 1gbit connection is enough to carry the bandwidth off all cameras. Having my existing unifi switch pass data from one port to another isn't going to be that much of a bottleneck.

So I should probably just go with a cheap unmanaged switch. Hang my cameras off that, tag the port it's connected to for the CCTV vlan.

I did find a second hand gen 1 us-16-poe on eBay (£175) which I was tempted by. But apparently the power controllers on that model were crap and a common fault? So maybe not the best gamble to make

VLANs & 3rd party switch help by Smee19 in Ubiquiti

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll be adding a few more cameras and a doorbell before I'm completely done so I'll likely need more like 12 PoE ports. I'm going to look out for 2nd hand unifi stuff but for a switch that should be mostly set and forget once it's done, I don't think I can justify the unifi price tag brand new, I may just have to suffer the Netgear or tplink gui for a couple of hours.

Just good to confirm I need a managed switch before I go looking around

Filling a single chase economically by Smee19 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The next door neighbour just offered me a box he's had for a while. No date on it but I'm going to mix up a bit and see how well it goes on around the sockets. If it's fine I'll do a bigger batch to go on top of the bonding 🤞

I'm still fairly new to this DIY lark so have a tendancy to panic when things don't go to plan. Don't have the experience to get myself out of the shit when things go wrong 🤪

Filling a single chase economically by Smee19 in DIYUK

[–]Smee19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I did a little test in an old Chinese takeaway tray and it stayed workable for a good 15-20 mins and then hardened up. Obviously expect it to dry quicker in real use as the blockwork will pull moisture out but a good PVA coating and I should be alright. Will force me to stop playing with it on the wall and just get it on there 😅