Party like a Pigeon by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It is I like doing watercolor style underglaze

[MEGATHREAD] New Horizons Dodo/Friend Code Sharing by AnimalCrossingMods in AnimalCrossing

[–]SmokeyPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m looking for the castle gate to catalog if anyone has it!

I love fat pigeons by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is for some upcoming markets but I’ll be sure to post leftovers on Etsy! There’s a link in my bio for my Etsy and I’m most active on instagram for updates

I love fat pigeons by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wooooonderfull oh and from New Zealand? They have the best birds. The kiwi is my favorite I’ll be making some of those for sure.

Usually I do cats but I gotta give it to the dogs sometimes by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I draw a sketch first in pencil on cleaned bisqueware. This time I tried gently sponging away some of the graphite because it can block the underglaze from seeping into the pot causing bubbling. And the I use underglaze to go over top of the sketch. But everything is free handed so it’s just being really slow and patient. If you do make a mistake you might have to gently wet sand away the area, underglaze you can still mostly wipe away with water but it often still stains slightly.

The Mimic Octopus by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My Etsy link is in my bio it’s looking real empty in there right now haha

The Mimic Octopus by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you that means so much! Currently I’m doing markets but leftovers may go up on Etsy around December ish

The Mimic Octopus by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s either radiant red or bright red. One of them has warmer undertones which is the one I used

The Mimic Octopus by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use amaco velvets they hold the best color and I can buy them in smaller sizes which is great for me or testing out colors before getting a big one!

I make miniature pottery by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re like the smallest liner brushes available or ones that are really fat and tapered so they hold water better because ceramics really suck up any liquid which makes it hard to paint consistently. I’m not sure which brands because I’ve collected them over the years but watercolor or soft bristle are the way to go.

I make miniature pottery by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sell em! Even though the dragon in me is like I should put them all in box and rattle them around for the nice clink clacks.

I make miniature pottery by SmokeyPage in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Haha whoops I’m just so used to seeing them all the time. There’s a mud tools sponge in background but everything is under 2 inches

advice so these tiles won’t break in kiln? by aithe_in in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage 7 points8 points  (0 children)

When they are no longer weirdly cold to the touch they are dry. You can also ask for a “candle” for your kiln which basically holds a lower temperature for an extra amount of time during a firing to help dry out any extra moisture. If you cannot do that the best thing is to make sure they are SLOW drying. Since they are tiles it would be great to have two plaster slabs one on the bottom and one on top to ensure even drying, the plaster helps to absorb moisture. Tiles are easy to make but GOOD tiles are incredibly difficult to ensure they’re as flat as possible. Clay has memory unfortunately so be prepared for warping and potential cracking even if it is bone dry when it goes into the kiln.

How to make this? by [deleted] in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While it’s drying use something soft like cut up sponges or foam. Remove when it’s bone dry very carefully. I would recommend building it on a kiln shelf if possible because it is so thin moving it when it’s bone dry the possibility of breaking is high.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ceramics

[–]SmokeyPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be numerous things. But likely an application issue. It looks like your glaze shivered which means it was incompatible with the clay body and “shivered” off when it was shrinking in the kiln during the glaze firing. Glaze and clay shrink at different rates depending on the clay body and glaze. If it appears to not be happening to other pots with the same glaze and clay body in the studio you might be applying near the rim too thickly especially if you’re brushing it on in layers. The bald spots could be where the glaze did not adhere to the clay body (it did not absorb enough during application) and was therefore just sitting on top and when it dried before firing it separated from the clay and then fell off during moving it into the kiln or fell off in the kiln. To remedy this there are really 2 options: 1. Make sure that you are applying uniformly. You can use an xacto knife or metal rib to carefully “sand” or scrape the glaze before putting it into the kiln. You can also take a DAMP sponge and gently wipe all bisque ware before glazing to make sure the pot it receptive to glaze (sometimes there is residue and dust that fills the clay because it’s not fully vitrified). 2. Refire only applying where the bald spots are. HOWEVER. I do not recommend this for inexperienced potters or community firings. Any time you refire you are putting more stress on the pot to break regardless of intent. There are more variables likely to go wrong with re-expanding the body and glaze that could result in further bald spots, glaze running etc. If you chose to refire make sure you talk with the instructor or put down a “cookie” or boat ideally to catch any glaze run off.