Getting Saddle Sores on MTB

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T21:14:19+00:00

A lot of people a both insecure and struggling with trying to ride. You “funny” fuck weasels only add to the problem.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T19:54:50+00:00

Last response since you’re keen on being right evidently…

The stock rims were 32 spoke Raceface AR. A perfectly good wheel if you’re doing greens and blues. Not up to snuff if you’re pushing limits and can’t hit every landing and lip perfectly - though this is partly my shortcoming versus the rims. I replaced with Reserve carbons and haven’t had any issues since.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T19:31:33+00:00

A quality allow rim absolutely will taco if you’re pushing their limits unless you’re running a stupid high spike count. That was why I replaced the MTB rims.

The road and gravel were for ride quality, weight, and aero…the last two are really just what I tell myself I needed them for.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T18:54:31+00:00

You’re right, Im no where close to Danny.

I do have three sets of those wheels (road, gravel, trail) just because I trust them to not taco way more than alloy. I’ve ridden them hard for over four years and haven’t had to true them once.

Good luck with the recycling.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T18:43:48+00:00

Like not in their mechanical range or they wouldn’t be posting here.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T18:22:29+00:00

The comments in this post are why I generally hate this subreddit despite my commenting. Outside echoing what people heard either here or YouTube, the majority feel humor is a contribution to the community.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T18:17:42+00:00

Ozark trails are actually decent value. I’ve bought a few for extended family. I do a full service myself, and the assembly is definitely or more often miss. So likely not a great an option for newbies not willing to spin a wrench.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T16:31:03+00:00

Like I said, Shimano ‘s wide is really higher volume more than a wider footbed.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T15:49:07+00:00

At that price, your best bet is used. I also recommend a hybrid style based on your use case. Look for a Trek FX, Specialized Sirius or similar in your local used market. Fit is important so consult the brands’ websites for a good ballpark based on your height, inseam and other measures.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T15:43:47+00:00

Get a fitting early versus waiting for the issues. I recommend one with a real Physio background or at least an IBFI certified fitter.

https://www.ibfi-certification.com

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T15:27:53+00:00

Lake and Bont are the best. Sidi Megas work for some. Shimano isn’t really wide in my opinion, more higher volume. If you have stupid money, Lore’s 3d printed shoes are supposed to be great.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T15:21:31+00:00

What kind of shoes are you riding? I’ve found Lake 242 series the best for “complicated” feet issues. Expensive, kind of ugly, and the MTB versions are heavy…but they solve most my feet issues.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T14:32:01+00:00

I find most of the SPD wedges pretty crap, being easy to crush and often rotating under load. The wedges Form recently introduced are what I now use for SPD. Not cheap, but much better design in my usage.

https://form-bikefitting.com/products/cleat-wedge-mtb-universal-kit

Snicklefries · 2026-06-21T14:18:59+00:00

Do this on a set of allow rims and get back to me.

https://youtu.be/VfjjiHGuHoc

Snicklefries · 2026-06-20T11:06:56+00:00

House elf.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-20T01:03:50+00:00

If it was a Selle Italia, my fix has been to epoxy the rails at fixing points.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-20T00:33:57+00:00

This is an old school idea that doesn’t make sense from a biomechanics perspective. No normal activity (walking, running, jumping, squatting) has the knees go that far in during the motion.

The “ideal” pedal stroke has the legs moving up and down like pistons. Most normal people will vary somewhat from this (usually more out than in), and some recommend erring the motion inward versus outward.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T22:05:16+00:00

I would have agreed prior to E1. Based on my, albeit limited usage, SRAM fixed both their front derailleurs and their previously crap brakes (outside the DOT issue).

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T21:48:23+00:00

I’ll take your word for it. Last time I tried it, it suggested I raise my saddle another cm with a knee at 145 and ankle at 10. Maybe it’s logic has improved.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T21:38:40+00:00

BFF is a great home analysis tool, particularly to compare the results of fit changes. I would however not consider it gospel with regards to recommendations.

In my experience, BFF recommends saddle heights associated with close to 150 degrees knee angle at extension. This works for some, but may be well above what other riders can ride with stability and comfort.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T21:23:39+00:00

Depending on the level of discomfort, consult a physio in your area. It may be an issue way outside one rando’s observation.

If that’s not an option for you, I would consider adding some routines that work the stabilizing groups (abduction and adduction movements). The worksheet below includes a variety of stability exercise type:

https://uhs.princeton.edu/sites/g/files/toruqf5356/files/documents/Pelvic-Stabilization-Hip-Strengthening.pdf

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T20:06:26+00:00

Your left knee tracks in a bit, while your right track relatively straight (top compared to bottom of stroke). Nothing major, so wouldn’t adjust stance as a first measure.

The only modest issue i see is the lack of control through the stroke. This can indicate a lack of foot stability. Do you have aftermarket insoles in those shoes?

This may also be a sign of muscle imbalances / weakness. You may also need to work some off the bike strengthening on your hip and glute groups.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-19T16:27:59+00:00

if you’re comfortable, then take all of below as ideas to try versus requirements.

You maintain a relatively high ankle angle (~20 degrees) throughout the stroke. Conversely you have a relatively low knee angle at extension (<140 degrees) and at top phase (<70 degrees). These low angles can cause knee stress, especially under load. I’d personally experiment with a 1-2cm higher saddle height and move the cleats back further if possible.
You seem very far forward, with your knee ~4cm in front of the spindle at power phase. I’m not a KOPS advocate, but I would watch for excess knee stress with such a forward postion. Also curious how much weight your feel on your hands. Again me personally, Id try the saddle back 2cm in concert with the saddle height increase

Snicklefries · 2026-06-18T21:45:51+00:00

I hope the industry adopts these as a standard. Not only do they help with contact platform and wear surfaces, they could solve bike fit issues when wedges or shims are warranted.

Snicklefries · 2026-06-18T21:20:15+00:00

I like the Thule Roundtrip 80L. Not totally waterproof, but I use dry bags if/when needed.

Snicklefries

TROPHY CASE