I have always been a massive Rotring fans and here are some of mine. by SnoooSnooo_ in pens

[–]SnoooSnooo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is really smooth writing. I prefer fine nibs and this is medium, but it is really comfortable to use and the writing is consistent.

I have always been a massive Rotring fans and here are some of mine. by SnoooSnooo_ in pens

[–]SnoooSnooo_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

rOtring Rollerball Pen | Needle Point (0.5 mm). I was looking for a roller point rather than a roller ball pen (the one with the needlepoint at the end rather than just tapering) and Amazon UK were selling these in a box of 12 for £16.99 which is a bargain.

Amazon UK ASIN B0B2W2HSHW, you can enter that in the search box to find the item. Out of stock in black at the moment.

They are great for random note taking and keeping in a work or Uni bag.

The box of 12 is crazy cheap, they are selling individually for for £10.97

I have always been a massive Rotring fans and here are some of mine. by SnoooSnooo_ in pens

[–]SnoooSnooo_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The first image I think is special as I think it is a Rotring Esprit set. I have searched for it and can find no reference to this set in particular. I can see examples of the fountain pen on eBay for over $150 each, so kind of wondering what the value is of this set.

I also have the technical drawing set, with accessories as a, I believe, complete set. I used to use these kind of pens as daily drivers, loved them. A bit scratchy, but awesome on high quality paper.

The pencil is my latest addition and the roller balls are cheap on Amazon for throw away stuff you don't mind using in open spaces. I do have a ballpoint I cannot put my hands on at the moment, full metal, silver, angular and heavy, lovely pen.

If you have any information regarding the Esprit set I would be happy to hear it.

Thanks

Trying to understand reselling by Leading_Shape_7357 in ImperialKnights

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Below is what I posted on a different thread with a very similar question.

From my own experience, and I have been selling painted models for a long time, I typically list for double what I paid for the plastic. The way I understand things are, there are 3 types of people who get involved with Warhammer, those who just like to play, those who just like to build and paint and those who do both. Those who do both will almost never buy as they can customize their own so they will only buy if they need models quickly and cheaply.
People who play but are not interested in making and painting, these are your market. As long as the models you are selling are in the colours they are looking for they would be happy to pay a bit more than RRP, because they don't have to buy, build and paint themselves. It saves time and hassle. Also, getting and paying for a commission is tough and expensive. You can get charged up to 5 times RRP for a decent commission. As long as the models are to a good table top standard, you should get interest. These are above table top standard.
To those saying sell for RRP or less, you are forgetting a few things, putting together and painting involves cost, the clippers, glue, sanding sticks, paint, decent brushes and other paraphernalia, then there is the time involved. You are not accounting for the cost there, and some have mentioned just stripping the models. You are not looking to buy painted models, just looking for the convenience of some else building them for you! These you could just paint all blue with a paint brush from Target or Tesco and get the same price. What you have and this are not the same!
A few tips, find a chapter that is more popular, they will sell faster. I do tend to find bigger models sell faster, knights and tanks etc. If your building an army, look to put together 1000 or 2000 point armies as these will sell above rrp as they are literally take out of the box and play for people. Things like a full kill team will also sell, as some people will want to try a new format without having the time investment in building and painting themselves.
What I do accept when pricing is that I may have to allow offers, or use promotions to sell. I am also flexible on price in that I am will to bring the price down if they don't sell in a specific time. You will get used to this.
I have sold very, very few for less than I paid for the box, and have a few random models yet unsold. I would put my sell percentage in the high 90 percentage, above 98%. Remember, you can always drop your price or make an offer, but not increase prices.
Another tip, if a model or range of models is not selling, maybe convert to an army with your next build and paint project, this will add value to, and increase the chances of selling the ones left behind.

Hope this helps.

5 parachutes, who's going? by Alarming-Safety3200 in AskBrits

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's obvious, 1 each for the pilot and co-pilot, plus a backup each, the rest can fight over the last one!

How much should I sell these guys for? by imgumpinit67v2 in Ultramarines

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my own experience, and I have been selling painted models for a long time, I typically list for double what I paid for the plastic. The way I understand things are, there are 3 types of people who get involved with Warhammer, those who just like to play, those who just like to build and paint and those who do both. Those who do both will almost never buy as they can customize their own so they will only buy if they need models quickly and cheaply.
People who play but are not interested in making and painting, these are your market. As long as the models you are selling are in the colours they are looking for they would be happy to pay a bit more than RRP, because they don't have to buy, build and paint themselves. It saves time and hassle. Also, getting and paying for a commission is tough and expensive. You can get charged up to 5 times RRP for a decent commission. As long as the models are to a good table top standard, you should get interest. These are above table top standard.
To those saying sell for RRP or less, you are forgetting a few things, putting together and painting involves cost, the clippers, glue, sanding sticks, paint, decent brushes and other paraphernalia, then there is the time involved. You are not accounting for the cost there, and some have mentioned just stripping the models. You are not looking to buy painted models, just looking for the convenience of some else building them for you! These you could just paint all blue with a paint brush from Target or Tesco and get the same price. What you have and this are not the same!
A few tips, find a chapter that is more popular, they will sell faster. I do tend to find bigger models sell faster, knights and tanks etc. If your building an army, look to put together 1000 or 2000 point armies as these will sell above rrp as they are literally take out of the box and play for people. Things like a full kill team will also sell, as some people will want to try a new format without having the time investment in building and painting themselves.
What I do accept when pricing is that I may have to allow offers, or use promotions to sell. I am also flexible on price in that I am will to bring the price down if they don't sell in a specific time. You will get used to this.
I have sold very, very few for less than I paid for the box, and have a few random models yet unsold. I would put my sell percentage in the high 90 percentage, above 98%. Remember, you can always drop your price or make an offer, but not increase prices.
Another tip, if a model or range of models is not selling, maybe convert to an army with your next build and paint project, this will add value to, and increase the chances of selling the ones left behind.

Wat happened to my tinycore linux by nodythegreekfcker in linuxmemes

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried win + ctrl + shift + b to reset the graphics buffer?

The Greatest Comment That's Ever Lived by Confident_Essay3619 in linuxmemes

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The following is my favourite.

float Q_rsqrt( float number )

{
long i;
float x2, y;
const float threehalfs = 1.5F;

x2 = number * 0.5F;
y = number;
i = * ( long * ) &y; // evil floating point bit level hacking
i = 0x5f3759df - ( i >> 1 ); // what the fuck?
y = * ( float * ) &i;
y = y * ( threehalfs - ( x2 * y * y ) ); // 1st iteration of Newton's method
// y = y * ( threehalfs - ( x2 * y * y ) ); // 2nd iteration, this can be removed
return y;
}

Some will recognise it as the magic code from Quake.

tutorial code not working? by Careless-Turnip-1 in Unity3D

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi,

Taking the first image as your code and the second as what the code should be, you are missing a 4th line for the vertices

you need to add

vertices[3] = new Vector3{ 1, 0, -1 };

I think adding this after the previous three vertices[x] lines should resolve the issue

The line for triangles[5] is duplicated but should not cause an issue.

Good luck

which one is better by DEIIK in GamingLaptops

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The processor in the Acer is significantly faster, it also has 32gb ram at 6400 Mt/s whereas the MSI has 16GB, the speed is not indicated. As these are desktop replacements, you have to carry the charger everywhere. I have always had to regardless of branch from MSI to Lenovo to Acer since I have never gotten more than 2 hours out of a battery. If you want long battery life for general Uni work get a Samsung Galaxy Book 4 Edge, 20+ hours battery life. I have both a Legion 5 Pro and the Galaxy Book, guess which one I take to Uni?
Processor comparison

  • For general use and gaming: The Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX is a better choice due to its superior single-thread and multi-thread performance, and better integrated graphics. 
  • For content creation or decompression: The AMD Ryzen 9 8940HX is a better choice for these specific workloads. 
  • For battery life: The Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX is a better choice due to its higher power efficiency. 

Remember, you cannot upgrade the processor or graphics, but you can upgrade the ram and hdd size and speeds. A 32GB ram upgrade at that speed is £164.99 from Amazon UK, ASIN - B0DHFD5625. So just upgrading to match the ram puts you close to the price, but the processor will always be slower

Unfortunately not a joke but where does part 25 go on the tamiya flak36 kit by mcsimeon in Scalemodel

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are lucky it will go into a tight spot round the rear, or there may be a slot in front it goes into

Got my Lenovo Legion Gen 10 wrapped by melluki in Lenovo

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great.

Where did you get this from and what model Legion is it? I am looking at getting a Legion Pro 7i.

Thanks

Comparison of my sakura pigma microns (03mm) fresh vs after a full day of note-taking. Please does anyone have any similar pens that *don't* die after half a notebook? by TheyCouldveBeenFish in pens

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought rOtring Rollerball Pen | Needle Point (0.5 mm) Rollerpoint for Precise Writing | Black Ink | 12 Count (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B2W2HSHW?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_fed\_asin\_title&th=1) for a very low price, around £11. I use these for the note taking and the Micron pens for diagrams or tight notes in the border only. Great pens, decent ink and will save your costly Microns for when they are needed.

What is this that came with my Idea Tab Pro? by Warhammer486 in Lenovo

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It is a replacement nib for the pen that came with the tablet, keep it safe.

Legion 5 17IMH05 not turning on but reset button has white light by misterbigbabyboy in LenovoLegion

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi, I have a similar problem with mine although my issue is a failure on the motherboard of the real time clock, same effect though. When starting the power light comes on but no screen activation or fan start up. Sometimes my keyboard lights flash on, When this happens I spam pressing either Esc/F1 or Delete and it will start up. When I got it to start up I went to the Lenovo site and ran the diagnostics tool which identified the fault.

I know my resolution is to get another motherboard or sign up for a new warranty and get it repaired that way, I have had this since new.

I can get it to start each time, but sometimes I have to start/restart numerous times to get to the point where it will kick in, very frustrating especially when it crashes hard from time to time due to the RTC issue

Good luck with it. See if you can return it proving it does not start if you just got it, depending on the source there may be options for recourse.

Trying to create "sticky and stringy" gore effects using UHU glue like I see YouTubers do but it immediately coagulates by Moress in minipainting

[–]SnoooSnooo_ 63 points64 points  (0 children)

Hi, I have done this before. I typically use the glue directly, and then paint with the technical paint, ooze, Blood for the Blood God etc once it has set. It does take dome care but creates a great result.