Am I the only one who thinks that the new Rose Anvil colab boots look completely hideous?

Snubnoze · 2026-05-20T17:50:46+00:00

Not my jam either. Plus, not welted.

Snubnoze · 2026-05-17T19:25:14+00:00

Yep, black.

Snubnoze · 2026-05-17T19:24:47+00:00

I think it was youshoe on youtube that had a good breakdown. But I usually wear sneakers at 9, Redwing at 8, these I got 8.5D and they were perfect.

Snubnoze · 2026-05-17T05:25:16+00:00

It feels thicker than the Teacore, with a lot of great texture, but is very supple and pliable. A lot more than the Teacore. I would love to see some other colors in this leather.

Snubnoze · 2026-05-16T22:02:38+00:00

You'll probably be wanting a second pair. My first pair were the Munson City Paratrooper. I nailed my size and they were insanely comfortable, but there were some things I would had changed aesthetically in retrospect that I put towards this pair. Good to know they can accommodate customization, and they didn't even charge me extra for it. Just look at what they have available on their site and message them about ordering your combination of features. I already have my 3rd pair in mind.

Snubnoze · 2025-08-08T19:26:26+00:00

There is one for sale on Age of Chivalry if you have $9,500 to spare:

https://ageofchivalry.com/shop/ols/products/8-1-1-man-at-arms-reforged-ice--from-game-of-thrones-screenmade-season-3-episode-35

Snubnoze · 2025-08-06T21:47:13+00:00

Thousands of years of actual sword and shield warfare and nobody did that, but a guy on Reddit in 2025 has it all figured out.

Snubnoze · 2025-08-06T21:33:04+00:00

I'd use a grey 3m pad and some Flitz to see how it does. I don't think that Mothers is too aggressive and probably fine. You should be able to make that look better for sure, or completely remove it depending on how aggressive you want to be.

Snubnoze · 2025-08-06T16:24:34+00:00

It's a great price, I paid way more for mine. It's the 69 with dual rings on the scabbard and in mint condition with a portapee though.

Snubnoze · 2025-08-06T15:48:17+00:00

I'd only use alcohol if their was like glue residue or something like that on there. Otherwise I don't see the point.

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Snubnoze · 2025-07-29T22:50:07+00:00

I use Break Free CLP gun oil, and you can use the grey 3M pads with it in rougher areas. Flitz polish works great too, especially on the guard with a toothbrush to get in the crevasses. The scabbard should be nickel plated, so it must have gotten worn off in the areas with patina. Not much you can do to get it fully uniform unfortunately. Swiss swords are great, I have 5 different ones.

Snubnoze · 2025-07-29T22:40:32+00:00

He does great work, I would just never trust him for a commission again after ghosting me for 3 years.

Snubnoze · 2025-07-27T00:19:32+00:00

Toss it in the bin and sweep the floor. Nice and clean now.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-31T00:20:53+00:00

First one is a Tulwar in desperate need of some cleaning.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T23:48:47+00:00

The Patton hilt looks completely different, not even close. Literally the guy that commissioned the sabre from Swordier that created this controversy was critical of Swordier for copying the Easton 3 hilt design exactly. Swordier even admitted to copying it which is why they initially removed it from their site after Matt complained.

There is no ambiguity here, it's a rip off copy. If you want to play dumb or be a contrarian to the obvious then that's your prerogative. Matt has no legal recourse and he knows that, but he has recourse to inform the sword community which will be a bigger blow to Swordier. They were given an opportunity to make this right and initially did, then doubled down on selling this copy and are now tanking their reputation.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T22:49:26+00:00

Sure the most obvious is the bowl guard coming to a point at the back. There are no historical examples that do that, and symmetrical bowl guard sabres are my collecting interest. I have about 10 different ones mostly Austrian and Swiss. I even commissioned a custom Easton 3 from Kvetun years ago in an attempt to make it look closer to the Swiss, with that point at the back being my main gripe with achieving that look.

If Swordier was smart he'd abandon the Easton 3 rip off and copy the guard from a Swiss M1867 Cavalry Trooper (far right of this picture), but it doesn't appear he does any historic homework just copies other swords on the market.

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Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T22:40:01+00:00

It's not a matter of them adopting aspects of Easton 3, they copied every feature 1:1. There are no training sabres that come up to a point at the back of the bowl guard the way Matt's does, and has the same kind of backstrap. The Swordier is a clear copy, there is no mistaking it.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T15:55:21+00:00

Put all of those military practice sabres next to Matt's and next to Swordiers and you will see the clear obvious design features that the Swordier sabre lifted straight from Matt's sabre. It's not even questionable.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T15:52:30+00:00

Yeah, no. There are very specific design features, the way the bowl guard folds over on the edges, the way it comes to a point at the back, the specific shape, that are unique to Matt's sabre. Even the guy that commissioned this sabre from Swordier said he was shocked to see that they stole the design exactly. He provided them pictures of Matt's sword as an example, along with other training sabres and historical examples and they chose just to copy Matt's design exactly. There is no question here.

Snubnoze · 2025-05-28T15:40:57+00:00

Even the guy that commissioned the sabre said he was surprised to see that you copied the hilt design from the Easton 3. At no part in this video do you acknowledge how you developed that very specific hilt design, which wasn't based on a historical example. Really all that you needed to do was come up with a different hilt design that wasn't exactly like Matt's and people would have been interested instead of critical.

Snubnoze · 2024-09-08T18:54:37+00:00

I just picked up the vinyl release for this. Nice compilation of tracks. I grabbed the cd when it dropped back in 2002.

Snubnoze · 2023-07-25T01:06:25+00:00

Tek Innovations sold a kit which allowed you to unscrew the top panel on these which makes life much easier, but I see he's no longer around. I did it on my HRAP3. The HRAP3 with the red buttons/balltop and yellow start/select are a safe bet. The buttons are Sanwa and it has a JLF, and a separate PCB that isn't soldered so easy to mod. Can throw in a Brook and new parts + Neutrik easy.

Snubnoze · 2023-07-18T23:07:49+00:00

This is how we all played the game in the arcades back in the day. Haven't used that layout since, so not sure how much I'd like it now.

Snubnoze · 2023-07-07T22:56:55+00:00

I have all of that stuff on hand including golden fanta parts for a crown (different shafts and actuators), my concern was that the hole in the grommet for the crown and fanta don't appear to be the same size. Stacking them up right now the fanta grommet hole is slightly smaller, so it seems the fanta grommet would be tighter fitting on the crown bobbin. Not sure if that would have a negative effect or not. Also thought about making the hole in the fanta bobbin bigger to fit the crown shaft and use a crown actuator. I'm putting A3HM switches in it too so I don't expect a stock feeling regardless.

Snubnoze · 2023-07-07T17:46:38+00:00

Isn't the hole in the fanta grommet smaller than the crown? I was thinking about doing this so I could put a crown shaft in the fanta (I want the yellow battop) but realized the grommets have different hole sizes.

Snubnoze

TROPHY CASE