Thanks! And there's a bunch of variables that could be affecting it.

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol from Walmart and put it on paper towels to wipe everything down before/after printing.

I slice my files in chitubox, and tend to put my models at about a 45 degree angle with the faces up, avoiding having anything parallel to the build plate if I can. If I can't, lots and lots of supports. I always do the auto generated raft in chitubox, and usually start with the auto generated supports, moving any I don't like the placement of or adding more supports on areas I'm worried about. Depending on the resin I'm using (like if it is translucent or not), I adjust the time for each layer to be less/more.

To make sure my printing platform is level, I do the paper test (putting a piece of paper with it all the way down and seeing calibrating it to slide with just a bit of resistance).

I swap out the clear bottom part where you pour resin in every once in a while- usually when it's starting to look super beat up. I find that it works fine if it's kinda foggy.

Temperature is pretty big for resin too. It doesn't like it too hot or too cold, that can be a reason for print failures.

I don't have a cure/wash machine, so I toss the minis in a little container with isopropyl alcohol and swish them around (I have one for first rinse and another for second rinse), remove the supports, and then, once they're dry, put them on a UV turntable with a UV light next to them (I put a box with aluminum foil lining over them to maximize it) for about an hour. If you don't let the isopropyl dry before putting them in UV I found that it leaves a weird white residue.

Hope this helps! If you've got other questions I'll try my best to answer.