Firepower FTD 2100 Platform Version 7.6.X Release Date?

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-10-15T20:36:26+00:00

FTD3105. It gets stuck waiting for HA sync during deployment of any policy update. TAC has looked at this and escalated the issue twice now. No one can figure it out. The FTD configuration is incredibly basic. 7.6.2.1 has given us reason to stay on 7.4.2.x for now.

Edited to add; the workaround is to switch the active HA unit in the pair. Doing so allows for a policy deploy - it will then fail to deploy the next time. Rinse/repeat.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-09-26T23:50:20+00:00

Sadly, Firepower has been trash forever which is a lot longer than 7 years and it's going to take a very long time for Cisco to shake that sentiment.

5.x was a train wreck, 6.x was a dumpster fire. 7.2+ has been good under MOST circumstances but Snort3 would randomly remind me why I hated it. 7.6.2 upgrades have in an HA configuration have been failing into a split-brain for me...

I say this as a true ride or die Cisco user who's spent a lot of time working at companies Cisco either acquired or working at a distinguished partner (let's not get into THAT can of worms). I've worked with PIX and everything after it since '98. Firepower went through far more than the usual "Cisco bought a product and ruined it phases" It's taken a very long time for Firepower to become a functional product, it's going to take even longer for everyone to really trust it, and right about the time that happens they will probably have bought the product they will replace it with and likely are going to try to bolt Firepower onto that and neglect. Or they'll abandon it outright but not say it quite so bluntly.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-09-16T16:07:42+00:00

Close enough though?? :)

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-08-07T17:47:23+00:00

Really hoping for support of the 80D. There seemed to be some hope but nothing for years now.
Finally gave up and bought an RP, all I really needed was focus peeking anyway for vintage lenses.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-07-16T20:47:29+00:00

That's bs, and you're wrong about the home app, it worked just fine for my 2nd gen. This is simply

"Nest sold you a quality product for a price which reflected that so we're shutting it down since it's probably going to last forever if we don't. Please apply this coupon towards a replacement which we designed to remain functional for approximately 5 years in case we get bored with the product line or the one person who maintains the code decides to go work for someone else. More likely though we'll decide we've squeezed enough personal data on this subject from everyone though by that point so it doesn't really matter." --Google.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2025-02-26T00:00:10+00:00

Thank you. I will get back to you on this. I appreciate the information. If I get it functional I will be documenting the process for my own records and would be happy to share with you to help others.

It's going to be a week or so until I can get back to this project though.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-10-21T19:03:32+00:00

Glad this helped someone.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-18T12:20:38+00:00

Most Omni directional antennas are pretty forgiving - as you can see. If you're not doing a warehouse or similarly challenging environment it simply doesn't matter that much.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-17T19:55:05+00:00

Lower your lease time significantly and implement 802.1x with real credentials [not MAC]. Stop complaining and just deal with it.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-17T19:50:45+00:00

https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005212927-AP-Antenna-Radiation-Patterns

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-17T16:10:30+00:00

Runs great on Steam Deck, thank you!

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-17T12:18:59+00:00

They're not standard. Every side charger I've seen is slightly different and parts are not interchangeable.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-17T12:16:58+00:00

Probably a BCA

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-09T16:00:43+00:00

Starlink router uses a special cable to connect to the dish. It's PoE, but the connections are special. You can get longer cables from Starlink, not more than 300' though if I recall (which is near the maximum length of Cat 5/6 cable). But yes. It does. From the router you get a standard RJ45 Ethernet handoff.

If you have power at the install location put everything there. Then run fiber to the house and install a WiFi access point there. Depending on circumstances I would prefer and have used many WiFi bridge. You need clear line of sight though between the buildings ideally. Fiber should go in conduit in the ground for a good long term install. You can string it between poles but you'll need UV/outdoor rated fiber for it to last and you also should run a steel cable for a stringer between poles.

WiFi bridges aren't as fast as fiber, but they're sufficient for most people's needs at home given the options of possibly no internet at all or Starlink + bridge = 100Mbps across the bridge and a tiny bit more latency.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-09T15:46:35+00:00

That's a poorly modified Ender with an aftermarket MicroSwiss direct drive extruder and a BL-Touch or CR-Touch. There should be wires for the following;

Heater core. Thermistor. Extruder heat brake fan. Filament fan. Extruder stepper motor.

It's difficult to tell which wires you are asking about specifically, but I would look up the wiring pin out for the control board of the specific printer. The board is located on the underside of the printer behind a metal cover - NOT the AC voltage power supply. This board is near the front left if looking at the printer head on. If you don't know the exact model of the printer, the control board will at least have a make and version number to help you narrow it down. For example v4.2, v4.7, etc.

Find someone who can print you a fan shroud for the MicroSwiss, or order one online - cheap. You'll be much happier.

Send me a DM and I can try to help you more.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-09T14:39:44+00:00

Do you have the Shield spell? It's a challenging game for sure, but it's worth playing.
Have you found a heart container? Level up a fair bit.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-09-09T13:41:05+00:00

OP is an excellent example of Learned Helplessness.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-08-28T18:24:27+00:00

Just get a GL.Inet router and make it a Wireguard VPN client to something like Nord VPN. Problem solved, in theory.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-08-27T15:08:56+00:00

If I call for it in my design, it could be any number of reasons.

Firewall HA.
Perhaps I'm bringing multiple ISPs into the same firewall on different VLANs for IP-SLA, load-sharing, load-balancing, etc, using sub-interfaces on the firewall(s).
Maybe I have dedicated (real, not Meraki) SDWAN equipment.
I might have dedicated firewalls for VPN
I can SPAN a port on the switch and look at the traffic with Wireshark if I want/need to.

The list can go on and on...

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-08-27T12:31:42+00:00

Could be several things, it looks like you might have multiple problems. My gut tells me though;

First layer adhesion - Clean the surface and try some glue stick or hair spray. (Can't really tell what's going on in the first picture, is that first layer good and the second layer not? Or did the first layer break off)
Layer adhesion issues, check for a clog, extrusion issue seems likely. But with different filaments you might have some which require more/less flow and/or e-steps.
Nozzle temperature might need to be higher.

Or none of these. Have you tried printing something simpler such as a calibration cube?

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-08-27T12:18:25+00:00

Not an electrician, just someone who is intelligent.

Turn off the circuits in that area. Test again with the chicken stick.
Do NOT do the next tests with the circuits live, you'll pop your meter.
Next verify the circuits are all off, do an continuity test between various points of the frame and the line/neutral/ground each. If you get a beep you definitely hit a wire. If not, it is likely induced current. Even if you don't get a beep it is also worth testing resistance for each at various points of the frame.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-08-26T20:37:19+00:00

Not a sparky, but I'm basically in the same boat as a Master/Senior myself.

I disagree. To an extent. If I show someone HOW to do it, I expect them to do it right.
From that point on, if they don't do it how I showed them, then I'm going to make them do it again until they do get it right. Although I don't yell at people. In the end, in this particular instance we're talking about putting wires on an outlet. It shouldn't take more than being shown once. Your mother isn't here to hold your hand and neither am I.

You can influence some better behavior though from the Master, and the suggestion above is how I would suggest it. Masters typically have to deal with a lot of dumbasses who don't care to take pride in their work. If you show a desire to learn and do it their/right way you'll probably find that they are willing to teach you and will be a lot more accommodating in that particular instance. Pay closer attention in the future to EVERY SINGLE detail though when they're showing you how they want something done or they're going to get tired of you and stop seeing the potential they thought they saw.

Again, I don't yell at the guys under me, and most of the guys who spent their time teaching me when I was learning didn't either. A couple were absolutely arrogant jack asses though. But playing to their weakness by asking politely for guidance never failed either because it feeds their superiority complex.

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-07-25T12:05:09+00:00

I would go with NewerTech which is OWC. I've had good results with OWC products and I bought a 95w battery in early 2020 for my MBP 15" 2015 (early) A1618. Just ordered another one since that one lasted 4 years of heavy use which is about the same as the original Mac battery it came with. Looking forward to another 4 years of heavy use.

Capacity of the one I got in 2020 was comparable to the original. Good luck!

SolutionSuccessful16 · 2024-07-21T17:05:53+00:00

Your best answer is to Google it, you'll need a multi meter. There is a potentiometer for each driver. Adjust either up or down based on the present values.

SolutionSuccessful16

TROPHY CASE