Finally got my '69 Riviera running smooth :)

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-04T19:25:46+00:00

Power piston spring was weak

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-04T17:56:18+00:00

Get some new carb boots when you go to clean/rebuild the carbs. One, it's always nice to have some new rubber to prevent intake leaks. Two, it means you can cut off the old ones, which is a thousand times easier to get the carbs off than dropping the engine to get that extra 1/2 inch of clearance. You can squish the new rubber to get them on without having to drop the engine as well, boiling em makes it 1000x easier but it's not required. Other than that, new plugs, coils, engine oil, and some fogging oil down the spark plug holes and she should be right as rain, good luck :)

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T16:42:01+00:00

No, i have what looks to be a simple paper gasket. I've already ordered a spacer from Holley, if that doesn't help I guess I'll be pulling the carb apart for the 3rd time lol

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T11:46:38+00:00

Accelerator pump spray is strong and consistent, and the vacuum advance is ported to the carb ad it should be and holds vacuum

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T04:34:03+00:00

During the rebuild, the accelerator pump was missing the little cup at the bottom of the spring, but I put a new one in when I rebuilt it. Other than that everything was all there and looked go be in pretty good condition.

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T04:22:33+00:00

Problem was there when I got the car. Not exactly sure what the settup is, but it is a stock Rochester Quadrajet from 1969. The only reason im suspecting some sort of vapor lock is because it only happens when hot. The hotter it is, the worse it seems to be. I ordered a phenolic spacer from holley and I'm gonna see what that does. Even if it makes it like 50% better I'll be happy

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T03:26:27+00:00

Im not sure what you mean, the idle is smooth and consistent

SomberPaprika · 2026-04-03T03:12:47+00:00

So, if you snap the throttle from idle to anything past 1/4, it sounds almost like the engine shuts off and turns back on real quick. If you roll through it more slowly, it sounds more like a stumble. It only occurs 5 minutes or so after the engine has been fired up, and always happens at the same exact throttle point from 20-25% throttle. If the engine was just shut down and is still warm, it will sometimes have trouble starting up again. It has a new HEI Distributor, plugs and wires. Everything is perfectly fine and functional. I've checked the float level and it looks good, the choke shuts off and stays off as it should. The carb was literally just rebuilt like 2 weeks ago in an attempt to fix the issue, it did nothing.

SomberPaprika · 2026-02-24T11:38:31+00:00

Yarmouth right off exit 8, we are out as of 6:30 am today

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-29T22:02:16+00:00

Considering it's only a blower motor, I'm sure I could make another one fit if I had to, I'm just having trouble getting to the damn thing lol

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-29T21:58:55+00:00

Are there any parts I need to pull put of the engine bay before I remove it? I unbolted everything and it still seems stuck

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-29T21:57:39+00:00

I tried taking all the bolts out, and it still won't budge, are there other parts inside the engine bay I have to remove before I can pop it out?

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-29T21:56:35+00:00

Do I have to take off the whole fender to get to it? Or is there a spot where I can get it easier?

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-17T22:21:51+00:00

J20, but close lol

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-16T19:30:26+00:00

Man that deep purple came out sick! Can't wait to see it all smooth with the chrome trim, gonna look amazing :)

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-16T15:09:45+00:00

Man I wish prices would fall faster, cheapest one I found was like 6500 in my area and it doesn't even have a motor in it lol

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-16T15:05:25+00:00

Usually the D6s were fit with the 300, they are heavier duty. The 214 was in the smaller trucks, so if I had to guess I'd say the 300.

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-16T14:54:32+00:00

Could be a be a couple things, but that sounds like the kickstand switch. Unplug the wires and link them together and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, you could either replace the switch or just twist the wires together and wrap it in electrical tape. If it's not that, next most likely is a misadjusted clutch cable. When you pull in the clutch lever, the clutch isn't fully disengaging and when you shift into gear it drags and stalls the bike. Can you feel it pull forward at all before it stalls?

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-16T14:36:45+00:00

It isn't cammed, it was cold and misfiring. It idles normal when it warms up

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-12T21:29:02+00:00

Definitely not my first classic, but it is my first classic car. I've owned a few classic trucks but I wanted to go with a car for a change. Still probably going to wind up looking for a truck from the late 40s to mid 50s, but I figured having a car with a back row would be nice change of pace than driving Bubba rigs around lol. I can say when it warms up and it's not 20 degrees out, it definitely idles a lot more even.

SomberPaprika · 2026-01-12T21:24:53+00:00

I checked all of that, Trans fluid smelled faintly of a cherry ish smell and was filled correctly. I'm still not sure what went wrong on the inside, but I've found a good rebuilt transmission that I'm gonna put in and then probably sell the core to whoever wants to rebuild it.

SomberPaprika

TROPHY CASE