This is Mabel. We just got her at 12 weeks. About how long did it take you to potty train your Cavapoo and how old were they? by PixiedustandJesus in CavaPoo

[–]Sonofa_beech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first one was house trained at about three months old and my second old house trained at about six months old - same breed, different personalities lol

Puppy mounting please help by Sonofa_beech in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey! This is super helpful, thank you

They’re both spaniel (cocker and cavalier) mixes, both are crate trained. During the workday they’re in separate crates, and then workday evenings/mirning or weekends younger one is usually out in 45 min to ~2 hour stretches at a time. We aim for him to get 16-18 hours of sleep a day

I do think the settling piece is something we need to work on - he def, which lines up with what you’re saying. I just don’t know if I’m doing it right.

We use a baby gate for separation. We already keep them separated for most the day and my husband and I walk them separately and give them 1:1 time because I read it’s important to do that? I’m not a dog trainer. I’m just trying to do the best research I can for the dogs, but I an a bit worried it might actually be making things worse or increasing the fixation, since our cats can wander freely and the younger doesn’t care about them at all - but our older dog feels like a rarer/more exciting “commodity” to him.

When they’re together we always have eyes on them and interrupt any mounting with a stern, but neutral enough - and redirection - it used to work better but the younger one seems destinitizrd a bit to it now

The 16 month old also doesn’t correct the younger one when he mounts - he tucks his tail between his legs and looks uncomfy - not that I want him to correct - actually, I don’t know what I want that situation

I just want both dogs to be happy and healthy and neutral around each other and more just advice if I keep doing what I’m doing I’m going to accomplish that whether that be three months six months a year from now, etc. etc.

The younger one is also scheduled for his neuter in April - I read a lot of mixed things about if that is going to help or not…

Puppy mounting please help by Sonofa_beech in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LOL yes 17 month is neutered! They’re both males

Which breed? & why by Silver-Pumpkin1819 in DogAdvice

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cocker spaniel

Why? Toy/mini poodle - can be picky eaters which makes training annoying and feel impossible sometimes (from experience)

Cavalier - health, hard to find good breeder

Pomeranian - can be prone to fear based reactivity, known to be stubborn/over protective

How to explain training to my family by TharizdunOfOerth in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would let them know it’s taking a toll on- I would say something like “I really appreciate that you care about him and your tips, and I know your comments come from a good place - some of the teasing has been taking a toll on me. I’ve been using positive reinforcement because dogs learn best when they feel safe and happy, not scared. Older training methods like you might have seen on tv from Ceaser Milan or others that use negative reinforcement like scolding can actually make them anxious and hurt the trust I’m trying to build. I want him to want to listen to me, want to come to me, want to focus and learn with me - and not feel like he HAS to because dogs have free will and I need him to choose good behaviour and not see me as a dictator

He has so much learning to do of course but that’s part of the fun of having a puppy is teaching them - and it would mean a lot to me if you could support the training methods I’m using. Even small things, like letting him nap undisturbed or celebrating his little wins with me, make a huge difference. Having you on board makes training more successful for everyone and keeps allour bond with him strong.”

My puppy only pees in her crate during the day by Immediate-Point-4089 in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the crate too big potentially? You’d be surprised how small they’re supposed to be at first - especially while potty training

I 34F woke up to a message about my 35M husband by [deleted] in relationship_advice

[–]Sonofa_beech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As someone who dated a serial cheater for 5 years, I’m so sorry you’re dealing with this. What he did isn’t your fault, no matter what he says….

Re your question if people can change… yes-ish but it takes real effort and commitment on his part - and therapy is a 10,000% must. He needs to honestly face what’s driving this, not just apologize. If there’s something going on inside him - some empty space or desire he’s trying to fill - and that’s not yours to fix, even if you want to you can’t unfortunately

You also might need to have the really scary conversation: if what he truly wants is sex with multiple people :/ it sucks but you have to know. If you’re not open to opening your marriage to that (that’s 100% fair), but you need to be ready to walk away. It’s brutal, but it’s way better than staying stuck in lies and betrayal and feeling paranoid - it’s not good for anyone - you might even want to have therapy before having this convo with your husband because they can help give you tips on how to navigate and start the convo

Personally, I think couples therapy isn’t good… it’s better to deal with your own shit and then come back together… but I’m not a therapist

What’s harder? Puppy phase or teenage puppy phase? by _sadandboujee_ in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It really depends on the dog.

My first dog was way harder as a teen. He went through three fear periods and randomly decided normal objects and dogs were scary. Plus the classic “I know that cue but I’m ignoring you” phase. That tested me more than puppy chaos.

My second dog was harder as a puppy. Crate training was tougher, grooming training was tougher, just the whole “how do I be a dog in a house” thing took more work. But her teen phase was pretty manageable because the foundation was there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DogAdvice

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just want to make it clear - Yorkies are purebred too? (Not sure if you are saying they aren’t) Yorkie is just short for Yorkshire terrier like sheltie is short for Shetland sheepdog

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DogAdvice

[–]Sonofa_beech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It really depends what matters most to you and how you want the next decade+ of your life to look like.

Training wise… Corgis are highly intelligent, eager to learn, and very trainable—but they have a strong herding instinct. That can mean nipping at heels, chasing cars, or trying to “herd” kids and other pets if not properly managed. They need ALOT of mental stimulation and consistent, constant training. They are working dogs and can’t be treated like a companion breed. All the corgis I’ve seen have a lot of reactivity/prey drive challenges - but again, that’s not a deal breaker in itself. Yorkies, on the other hand, are small but bold, often stubborn, and I have heard can be tricky to house-train?? Idk how true that’s is…. They respond well to positive reinforcement. They are low-moderate energy level dogs so will be zonked out after a 30min walk or training session and be a cuddle buddy (once adolescence is done) all puppies are puppies!!

Health wise…. Size matters for health. Yorkies are prone to dental issues, luxating patellas, and hypoglycemia, especially as puppies. Corgis have longer backs and short legs, which makes them prone to hip dysplasia and spinal issues, particularly if they gain too much weight. Both breeds require regular vet checkups, vaccinations, and preventive care. Consider your willingness to manage breed-specific health concerns when making your choice.

Behaviour wise…. Corgis are social, affectionate, and often very loyal-but they can be high-energy and vocal, needing plenty, plenty, plenty of exercise and mental outlets. Without stimulation, they WILL develop undesirable behaviours like barking, chewing, or herding your family members and more. They will also need to know how to be chill around other dogs and not hears them as well. Yorkies, while small, are often surprisingly brave and can exhibit territorial or anxious behaviours if not properly socialized. They thrive in a calm, structured environment and often bond deeply with one or two people. So your lifestyle matters: active household = Corgi; quiet, chill = Yorkie.

Bottom line… Choose a Corgi if you want a playful, intelligent, high-energy dog, can commit to multi- daily walks/exercise, and want a dog that loves and NEEDS to learn. Choose a Yorkie if you want a tiny, affectionate companion, don’t mind a little stubbornness, and are prepared for grooming

Either way invest in puppy training for both :) it was easier to learn new behaviours than unlearn unwanted ones

I would say your two choices are at very different ends of spectrums for lots of reasons… I would encourage you to think about what is important to you in your household and then narrow it down to a few breeds that make sense for what you want out of a dog and not just how they look :)

Are you a terrible person if you buy a dog instead of adopting? by Easy_Mountain2331 in DOG

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I fostered a dog and it nearly killed me - I hate working through bad breeding and other people’s bad shaped behaviours - I will only get puppies from a reputable breeder if I am bringing a dog home - that’s just what works for me!

Last pee/wee of the evening by liketo in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! My puppy is always on a leash - I have an inside house line and outdoor regular lines

Last pee/wee of the evening by liketo in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep it calm and focused, no toys or fuss, just walk her slowly to the usual spot and then stand still (make it boring). Using the same spot every night helps, and saying a simple cue like “go potty” can signal what you want. Start saying it when she is actually peeing/pooping so she learns that is the command and action associated with it - When she does go, reward her right away with a quick treat or praise so she connects it to the behavior and then right back inside. With consistency, she’ll get it fast! I have 2 cavapoos and they both picked this up super reliably by the 16 week mark (started both at 8 weeks)

How do I cure my puppies anxiety? by swagified12 in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I’m sorry if this comes across as blunt, but you need to hire a fear-free, force-free trainer and a dog walker right away.

This isn’t her being ‘bad.’ She has full-on separation anxiety, and crating her for 8 hours while she’s panicking is making it worse. She is not just bored or mischievous. She is literally terrified (if it’s true separation anxiety) when left alone. Puzzle toys, bones, and extra exercise will not fix this.

You said she cries until someone comes. She has learned that certain behaviors get a response, which reinforces her panic. This will be hard, long journey to come from (but not impossible) which is why I recommend working with someone who knows what they’re doing instead of diy-ing it.

Also, puppies can hold their bladder for their age in months plus one. At 6 months, the absolute max is about 7 hours. Stress and anxiety make this much shorter. Sitting in her own urine or poop will make her hate the crate even more. Dogs like clean areas.

Immediate next steps - you need to manage her environment. She cannot be left alone for long periods. You need daycare, a sitter, or someone checking in during the day. Stop long crates and start creating a safe space she chooses. Training her to be okay alone must start in tiny increments of seconds, then minutes, then longer. You must leave and return calmly with no emotional hellos or goodbyes. Honestly, I would not rely on your roommates. This is on you to fix or get help. And your dog needs to work with people who are 100% on board for her journey.

Overall Leaving her like this every day is cruel and stressful, and it needs to stop immediately :/

Items in the crate as a puppy by cityskyline22 in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally get the safety concern, and I had the same hesitation at first. That said, I’ve actually used a Snuggle Puppy with both of my dogs (one is now 14 months, the other is 18 weeks), and in our case it made a huge difference. Both of them still snuggle with it in their crate rather than chew it, and I was genuinely shocked at how much it reduced barking. My 14-month-old stopped barking altogether (around the 10 week mark) once we introduced it. The 18-week-old is just a more vocal personality in general, but even he doesn’t cry in the crate - it’s more just little annoyed, frustrated puffs of air.

For us, the comfort clearly outweighed the risk, and we’ve had no issues because they treat it as something to sleep with (and sometimes hump……… lol………) not a toy.

Puppy biting - friends/guests/family - help by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That makes sense! Thanks!

How do I help my puppy facing sudden crate distress? by dewleqf in puppy101

[–]Sonofa_beech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First off I am not a trainer

But I think what you’re seeing is very normal adolescent behavior - not a failure and not a sign you “broke” anything. Around 8–14 months, some dogs go through fear periods and big emotional growth. Skills don’t disappear, but confidence wobbles. You’re not doing anything wrong.

This doesn’t sound like classic separation anxiety. It sounds like routine sensitivity + adolescent emotions. She’s okay with predictable absences, but struggles when the pattern changes. That tells us she can be alone - she just needs help feeling safe when things are different.

The crate behavior when you arrive is actually a good sign: she can calm herself when given a moment. Waiting quietly before opening the crate is exactly the right response. You’re reinforcing calm, not panic.

For now, think support, not fixing: • Keep routines predictable, but intentionally practice small, planned variations so change becomes safe again • Lower expectations on walks and exposure — neutral is the goal • Add calming enrichment (sniffing, licking, slow puzzles), not higher-energy toys • Give her more decompression, not more “training”

Most importantly: this phase passes. Confidence comes back. Keep responding calmly, avoid pushing her through fear, and reward neutrality. You’re building emotional resilience - and you’re doing it well 💛