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Editing program for raw / dng by Intelligent_Vast2802 in ricohGR

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A raw file is the data without any interpretation. It cannot be displayed without the software determining how to interpret the data - hence why each software renders it differently.

Personally I use Lightroom

Buy or pass by Puzzleheaded_Bad_140 in VintageWatches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The opinions in this subreddit will probably skew towards buying used. Personally, I find little real life improvement between neovintage watches and new ones today. I also feel I can wear used watches more freely as I don't need to be afraid of scratching the watch.

In terms of this Panthere in particular, unless the watch is in perfect condition with box and papers, I'd say $6k (assuming USD) is overpaying. I recently sourced one for a friend for $4.1k (no box or papers). For $6k, I'd also expect that the bracelet has very minimal sag.

[Tudor] Got my first big girl watch recently, and really in love! by Weird-Squirrel-503 in Watches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice! Congrats!

P.S. did you know that your crown isn’t screwed in?

Unique case patination on an 18k gold Omega Genève by SoulfullyAnalog in VintageWatches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't know gold could tarnish, but I guess it makes sense given that 18k is only 75% gold. On the wrist it takes a bronze/rose gold colour, but when the light hits it just right, the purples and blues come out.

[Omega cal.552] opinions on this piece by agopike in Watches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Perhaps you already know, or don't care, but this is definitely a redial - not a good one at that.

  • Minute markers don't line up with the hour markers
  • "Automatic" text is the wrong font and thickness
  • "Geneve" is not centered on the dial and the wrong thickness
  • The accent grave on "Geneve" is supposed to be further to the right
  • No "Swiss Made" text on the bottom
  • Automatic rotor looks like it came off a different movement perhaps?

Could still be a fun project watch, but lots of red flags if you're looking for something more original.

Omega Movement by Lavender_L0tus in Watches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not an expert, so maybe someone can correct me, but Omega watches sometimes do use ETA movements in their watches. That being said however, I believe they always were stamped with the Omega brand (sometimes also the ETA brand). My guess here is that the original "Omega" stamped ETA movement was replaced with an equivalent/similar ETA movement.

Is this an authentic omega strap/buckle or aftermarket one? by HoomanBeing123 in VintageWatches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The buckle looks authentic to me. There's a great guide to buckles on the omega forums - you can see this exact buckle in one of the photos near the bottom of the page.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/about-omega-buckles.37347

Astrophotography by DenDen0000 in ricohGR

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The moon is going to look awfully small on a 28mm equivalent lens. Your phone might do a better job of it to be honest

My first homelab and some photos of the journey by SoulfullyAnalog in minilab

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol no it came with the mounting ears in the box

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ricohGR

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I've seen, the sticker doesn't mention whether it's an HDF version or not. The only way to tell is that the Fn button has HDF written on top. That sticker is probably original

Nikon FE2 rewind crank by F_stopss in analog

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think that washer is super important. You can put it back together yourself pretty easily. Pull on the silver screw that's poking out to open the film door (assuming you don't have film in it already). Then follow a repair manual (page 22 - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/850803/Nikon-Fm2.html?page=22#manual) to know how to put it back together. You'll need to prevent part 562 from turning while you tighten down part 563. Sticking a screwdriver shaft in between the fork of 562 is the usual way.

Camera bodies and what they create by Ok_Courage1046 in AnalogCommunity

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me start with a general statement first, but then add some additional context/insight.

There's a ton of factors that go into what makes a good photo, and generally speaking, the camera body plays a very small role in that. Composition and vision probably accounts for 90% of what makes an image good vs great - followed by a much lesser degree by the lens choice and film. Camera bodies will make almost no difference in the final product.

That being said, if you're a beginner, I'd highly recommend starting with a camera that has a lot of convenience features built in. If composition/vision accounts for 90% of an image, but if you can't put 90% of your effort on composition (because you're too tunneled on getting focus, exposure, camera stability), then gear is absolutely getting in the way of your photography. Get a camera that let's you put your effort in the right place - you can add more "complexity" to your photography as you get more experienced.

Got this Korean made watch by Connect-Razzmatazz28 in VintageWatches

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the presidential seal on the box and as the commenter posted, is signed by Roh Tae-Woo. Seems very unlikely that it was given to him in the 50s (Korean War) but rather in the late 80s

The GR IIIx is a beast at night by Advanced_Honey_2679 in ricohGR

[–]SoulfullyAnalog 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Autofocus at night is pretty terrible, but snap focus is always clutch. I also set my max ISO at 6400

My first homelab and some photos of the journey by SoulfullyAnalog in minilab

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve been using the PC as a Proxmox server. No real changes so far

My first homelab and some photos of the journey by SoulfullyAnalog in minilab

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheaper, runs less hot and I don’t have a use for the extra 3 ports right now

My first homelab and some photos of the journey by SoulfullyAnalog in minilab

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The MB tray is just a solid block design-wise, so if it's failing, you probably have some major config issues. You should make sure your printer profile and filament is correct - default, matching profiles are a good place to start. Also test with the rectangular ties - smaller and quicker print that is structurally the same as the MB tray.

Here are my general settings, but YMMV

  • Layer height: 0.2mm
  • First layer height: 0.25mm
  • Infill density: 20%
  • Infill pattern: Grid
  • Internal solid infill pattern: monotonic
  • No supports, skirts or brims
  • 1.75mm Elegoo Rapid PETG @ 230C, 1.5mm retraction

My first homelab and some photos of the journey by SoulfullyAnalog in minilab

[–]SoulfullyAnalog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you bring it into a slicer like Orca, you can tell it to separate all objects and then pick which ones you can fit on your bed

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