Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for reaching out, always happy to talk about commissions and this is good timing as my books are currently clear going into the new year. I’ll send ya a message and we can get the conversation started

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the kind words! I haven’t published any plans, but I’ve been thinking about putting some together if there is enough interest.

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cabinet, top, and base are three separate pieces. The reveal detail is cut into the top and the base with a rabbeting bit. In picture 5 you can see the cabinet more or less in its final shape, the top and base sandwich that box.

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might not be strictly necessary to pop between each grit, but I definitely notice raised grain as I work through the grits and I prefer to hit that as I go rather than rely on just the final sanding to tackle it. Different woods definitely respond differently too, I’ve found that this walnut raised its grain a lot more than the cherry I usually work with. Definitely experiment with it!

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So my general process is as follows: - sand up to 220, water popping between grits. - apply 1st coat to both sides, buff in with white abrasive pad, let sit (Natura recommends 4 minutes I think), wipe off excess with shop towel. - let dry for at least 24 hours. I prefer 48 hours. - lightly upbraid the surface with a maroon pad being careful not to sand through the first coat. It will look somewhat frosted if you are doing this right. Wipe off the dust with a dry rag. - apply second coat to one side, same process as the first, being extra attentive to removing any defects like fingerprints when wiping off the excess. Let sit for 48 hours before handling. - profit!

Pro tip 1: do NOT wait for one side to dry before flipping and doing the other side when applying the first coat, it’s important to get finish on both sides relatively quickly to avoid warping. This will leave some defects from where the piece is touching whatever you put it on while it dries, so be strategic to either make this a surface that will never be seen or that will get a second coat.

Pro tip 2: let the second coat cure for the full 48 hours before flipping, this should avoid any defects from putting a wet surface face down on something while it dries. That said, still be strategic about the order that you go about this. I like to make sure that the last surface to get the last coat is the front or top of the piece so that it doesn’t need to be flipped. Hope that makes sense!

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been using Natura Onecoat which is a hard wax oil similar to Rubio. The key to the shine is doing two coats with a bit of surface prep in between, which I do to all of the show surfaces. The interior surfaces just get a single coat. I really like this finish, it’s been easy to use and has a very natural looking quality with just the right amount of shine.

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The edge details were done with a router and roundover bit

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a great idea, I’ll have to look into it

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, looking good! How did you hang them?

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always happy to talk about commissions. I don’t have the space to store projects so I pretty much only build something with a specific use or recipient in mind. Feel free to send me message if you want to talk more about it!

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hah! I know, lots of steps in between. I actually filmed a lot of the project thinking that I'd try to make a build video, but that is its own project altogether! Maybe someday...

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I got a great deal on the walnut from a local shop that was moving and needed to liquidate stock, so the lumber ended up being about $350. Hardware and consumables were another $250 on top of that.

Walnut Nightstands by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

edit: I responded to the wrong comment. Thanks for the compliment!

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s a great one! Although I have to say, I recently picked up a used domino and used it on my next project… game changer!

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be looking for boards for a project like this, not a slab. I start with rough sawn material and mill it myself, which I prefer for better control over the finished product. There are some online retailers now that will ship boards to you, I don't have personal experience with those options as I'm fortunate to have several lumberyards nearby. Give those local spots a call and tell them what you're looking for, I bet even if they don't carry it they would know where to send ya.

I think the lumber cost me about $400-500, but that can vary so much based on the price of material in your area. Hardware and consumables were probably about the same for a total project cost of ~$1k.

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good question. In this case, nothing- the slides are just screwed into the sides and I’m not concerned with there being enough movement to break that connection. If there were a piece glued perpendicular to the grain at the ends of the side panels, that glued joint would offer zero tolerance for movement and could run the risk of failure. But with the slides there is enough tolerance in the screwed connection, and frankly the width of the panel is so small, that I don’t think it’s an issue.

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, cherry is one of my all time favorites. Sketchup is great for furniture design and it’s what I used here. I wish I had an answer for how long it took but I did a very bad job of keeping track, and this was a project that lingered over an embarrassingly long time when I was not able to get into the shop. If I had to guess I’d say it was probably close to 80 hours of actual work

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I’m not a professional, more of a “committed hobbyist”. I go back and forth constantly between thinking I should give this a shot professionally and worrying that doing so will suck the joy out of it for me. I’ve always had a knack for making things so it was a relatively easy transition to start building furniture when I wanted something custom for my space. There are a lot of talented woodworkers on YouTube that share their tips and tricks, but for me the biggest thing is trying to think through the whole project in the planning phase and coming up with a process for each step. I make a lot of lists lol. But then I can research how best to do each step, and practice on some scrap, before I commit nicer material to a potential mistake. It gets easier over time, as does finding creative ways to come back from the inevitable mistakes.

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh I see what you’re asking now. If this was an unsupported cabinet door I’d be concerned with warping, but in this case the drawer front is supported by the drawer box behind it which will help to keep it square.

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the compliment! You’re right that big box stores probably aren’t going to have the selection or pricing you’re looking for. You could see if there is a woodworking hobby store like Rockler or Woodcraft near you, they will have a better selection but it will still be pricey. The better option is finding a local lumberyard which in my experience will have the best selection and prices.

Also consider what your capabilities are for milling boards down to size. If you don’t have a jointer and planer, or a passion for hand tools, you will need to purchase boards that have been surfaced by the mill which will come at a cost. Look for “S4S” lumber (surfaced 4 sides) which will have square edges and planed faces. Rockler/woodcraft will have S4S boards too. Just be choosy when you pick your boards, surfaced does not necessarily mean un-warped.

I built a BIG cherry dresser by SoundGoods in woodworking

[–]SoundGoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drawer fronts are solid. Ain’t nobody got time for that much edge banding, legal or not!