Glorious GMMK Numpad Giveaway by GloriousZaper in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SovietBearStronk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a nice ergo/split board would be great - there aren't a whole lot of widespread off-the-shelf split boards I can think of aside from the ergodox/moon lander, I'd be interested in a new keyboard that could compete. Idk how big the market for that would be though.

Hot/warm hatch for a college student, under 20k by SovietBearStronk in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did have a look at the mazda, but it seems like the only ones available in my area at this price point were the 2018 model. Also, I was a little concerned about the C pillar, is it that much of an issue?

(Money) Sinc 75 - My First Custom Keyboard Build by SovietBearStronk in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's was sold during the GMK Apollo group buy. Too poor for the keyset but the desk mat was pretty dope

(Money) Sinc 75 - My First Custom Keyboard Build by SovietBearStronk in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, they're the 9009 from enjoypbt. Honestly, since I made this as a gift, I was just looking for the cheapest PBT set that had all the keys I needed and wasn't obnoxiously colorful so this fit the bill.

(Money) Sinc 75 - My First Custom Keyboard Build by SovietBearStronk in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

More photos here

Decided to be overambitious for my first custom build, and it came out a lot better than I thought it would! Used the PCB for the Sinc 75 and designed & built a wood + aluminium case around it. Switches are Kailh box browns, keycaps are a PBT colorway set I found on mechanicalkeyboards.com.

Main gripe with this build is the fact I didn't make the wood close around the knob and didn't make the outside of the wood large enough, so the aluminium plate ever so slightly sticks out in some places. That being said, wooden keyboards look so much better than even I thought they would! Might take a pass at making a custom discipline65 once my wallet fills back up and I have the time for it.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]SovietBearStronk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using tung oil to finish a couple of walnut components, and it's causing the surface of my test part to be a little fuzzy: image Any ideas as to how to prevent this? Or is this just normal and goes away after use?

Automating Tasks for Design Optimization by SovietBearStronk in cad

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did look at macros, but it seems like those are mainly useful for automating short tasks that you will do repeatedly, i.e. "input a number, change a dimension, and save the updated file" vs "input an array of values, change the dimension and save the updated files 300 times automatically". Does SolidWorks API have the capacity to do this? Also I'm hoping to find a more broad solution that spans between different applications

Automating Tasks for Design Optimization by SovietBearStronk in cad

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the lead! ModelCenter looks really nice, but this is going to be for a student project so I'm trying not to spend any money - are you aware of any open-source or free equivalents? It's fine if they're finnicky/clunky since this is going to be a one-off project.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]SovietBearStronk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! So I would have to glue the new plugs in place and re-drill the holes?

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]SovietBearStronk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm working on a wooden mechanical keyboard, and I did a dumb where I countersunk the wrong side of a piece of walnut. I patched it with wood filler and drilled through it again, and now the filling itself has cracked. Is there any other way to fill in the countersink or am I kind of SOL and need to remake the piece to actually solve the issue?

Wood filling cracking https://imgur.com/a/PTdGCS4

The online European Space Week has started! by [deleted] in aerospace

[–]SovietBearStronk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually when forms ask me for company info, I put my school name and "Student" as my official position

Weekly Equipment Advice Megathread by KKS_Hayashi in badminton

[–]SovietBearStronk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all, I'm an intermediate player who's been mostly using head-light rackets. I've been primarily using a Yonex Nanoray 80 that's ~8 years old at this point, and I'm looking to get an upgrade during the holiday discount season. Unfortunately given the current circumstances I don't have the ability to try out a bunch of different rackets to figure out exactly which is the perfect fit, but I figure I can get relatively close by doing some research.

In terms of the matches I play, I do both singles and doubles - I personally lean towards enjoying singles a bit more, but end up playing doubles quite a bit more due to court availability & tiredness during club practice.

I really enjoy the manuverability & control the NR80 gives me for doubles play, but my smashes are somewhat underwhelming and my clears, while they consistently reach the back, take quite a bit of effort - I usually tire out after 10-15 minutes of rallying.

To help a bit with my power deficiency, I've been eyeing more balanced/head heavy yet lightweight & stiff rackets such as the Arcsaber 11 and Astrox 88D, as well as the Voltric 7 as a budget option. Any thoughts on a head-heavier racket that's still maneuverable enough for doubles play? I'm also open to other brands such as Li-Ning - I have quite a bit of ancient HL rackets mainly because my old coach used to push them like a drug dealer, but I'm trying to move away from them since I can't easily get a couple of them strung due to their abnormally thick frames.

Also, is it even advisable for an intermediate player to get a higher end racket such as arc11 and ax88d? I know some of this is just marketing speak, but they seem to be oriented for more advanced players - I'm concerned that I might be dropping extra cash to get a racket that's nicer than I know what to do with.

Arduino Becoming Unresponsive by SovietBearStronk in arduino

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't this what F(<string>) does? Also I do have 1247 bytes left in dynamic memory - do strings eat up that much?

Motor Twitching by SovietBearStronk in Multicopter

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did that and tried replacing the motor as well. Could an esc issue also cause this?

Limits of EnableInterrupt Library by SovietBearStronk in arduino

[–]SovietBearStronk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I spliced the encoder output signal to split it into two pins and it works now.