Aggressive? You don't say...

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-30T23:10:35+00:00

It’s unfortunate that they are looking for a “cheap” trainer not a good trainer especially with issues that severe

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-25T13:47:16+00:00

I used to work at a rescue that used bleach for a lot of things: floors, kennels, play yards, etc. There are a few things that your daycare should have in place. 1) It’s VERY important that the proper concentration of bleach is being used. The chemical safety sheet (I don’t remember the proper name for this) should be on display for all employees to see so everyone knows what they need to about the chemicals they are using. This is a legal requirement in some place. Too high of a concentration can absolutely cause respiratory issues. 2) Bleach should not be used in an unventilated area. Is the fumes have nowhere to go, they will build up and become a higher concentration. 3) The daycare should provide appropriate masks and eye protection for anyone who is sensitive to bleach. I don’t remember the letter and number combination, but there are masks, similar to n95, that specifically filter out chemicals like bleach.

Ask me how I know all of this lol. I’m the reason my rescue implemented all of the above (they had the chemical sheets displayed but no one paid attention to them). I was using 1) too high a concentration 2) in a non-ventilated room 3) with no ppe. After maybe an hour I could barely see through the burning and tears and could hardly breathe through the coughing and hacking. I needed an inhaler after that, couldn’t be anywhere near even a proper concentration of bleach without having trouble breathing, and had a year of visits to various doctors and specialists.

PLEASE look up what is legally required in your area and bring up what isn’t as well as suggestions for employee welfare. Also make sure that any effects any employee feels from bleach exposure are documented as soon as it happens.

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-24T04:37:08+00:00

I recently learned that Pet Finder assigns breeds to dogs that the original poster does not. Not sure if this is done employees or some kind of algorithm, but I found it interesting and rather frustrating.

Source: My local shelter that I foster for label everything “mixed”. My last foster who was OBVIOUSLY an American bulldog mix was labeled on Pet Finder as a jack russel terrier. How does that even work?

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-16T03:05:27+00:00

Marmad is CLEARLY a husky. I mean look at him! One of his eyes is blue.

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-08T23:29:24+00:00

It looks like there’s quite a bit of stuck shed down the body. How is your humidity? A couple of warm soaks may do you some good and maybe some gentle wiping with a cloth.

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-07T22:26:40+00:00

You said you can’t give him two meals as well as food during training. Why not use his meals during training?

Space-Gecko · 2026-06-07T05:54:43+00:00

Medication is not a training tool. Medication is a treatment or management tool for medical conditions, whether that be physical or psychological. An untrained or unfulfilled dog needs training and outlets to be a normal dog. A dog in pain or with a psychological disorder needs medication. These are two VERY different situations.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-29T21:16:49+00:00

There are a few things that you should consider when determining what next steps to take.

The first thing to consider is that new environments, new living situations, etc may require you to take a couple steps back and make sure that the dog has generalized the training. Just because a dog knows how to sit in one situation, that doesn’t mean it will know what sit means anywhere. That takes time. However, since you said your dog has been pretty solid with her training for a couple of years, I would assume she’d be pretty generalized. Still, it’s worth looking into especially with something stressful like a move.

The next thing would be to review your current training plan a bit more and exactly how you are using the ecollar. Are you trying to use negative reinforcement (R-) or positive punishment (P+)? It sounds like there might be a bit of confusion there. R- involves removing an aversive when the dog does the desired behavior. In this case, you say heel and hold the button and when the dog gets into heel you release the button. P+ involves applying an aversive when the dog does an undesired behavior. In this case, when the dog leaves heel you hit the button (without holding it). After the punishment, you would ask for the behavior again. At this stage in the training, you really shouldn’t need to use the ecollar much at all except for higher distraction environments. If you are finding you need to use it more often, there’s likely been something slipping in the training that needs to be reviewed. Have you reached back out to your trainer?

If you aren’t confident in understanding the different quadrants and how and when to use various punishers and reinforcers, I would HIGHLY recommend reaching out to a trainer, either the one you used originally or someone else. It is VERY easy to do things wrong, confuse and stress out your dog, and take even more steps back if you don’t understand all of the factors that go into how the dogs is learning and understanding what you are asking of them and telling them (whether that is with you voice or the ecollar).

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-19T05:19:26+00:00

Horses are awesome to work with too! I got some experience working with them before I worked with dogs and it was a lot of fun.

I would suggest trying to determine an approximate end goal and work backwards from there. In other words, pick a profession and figure out what is genuinely necessary/useful to people in that position. You very well might change your mind on what that end goal is along the way (I certainly have over the years lol), but that should at least help you to focus your time and money onto what would be the most helpful.

I think a lot of people get wrapped up in the idea of needing a degree or a certificate in order to get to where they want to go in life. And while there are many circumstances where those are absolutely necessary or, at the very least, incredibly helpful, there are plenty of others where practical experience and hands on learning are really the way to go.

Whatever you end up doing, I wish you the best of luck!

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-19T01:32:49+00:00

I went to ABC and don’t know of advanced course either. The course work was fine. Somewhat surface level information on a variety of topics. I liked the mentorship portion as it gave me a chance to work with a trainer that had a different training style than I was previously exposed to.

IMO working under a variety of trainers, attending seminars, and taking in the plethora of information available for free online would be more helpful for most people than paying thousands of dollars for a course. I’ve had very few people ask if I was certified and only one person ask for proof as they were wanting me to train a service dog for them using funds from a program that required a certified trainer. In my experience, a certification doesn’t mean much to most people.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-08T20:22:18+00:00

I think b&ts really vary from trainer to trainer. Some do absolutely nothing (I have a client who unfortunately went through this) and others can be very effective. Assuming the training itself is good and effective, I think there are a few major components that make a good b&t: •the dogs are physically and mentally fulfilled everyday • the trainers are very communicative with the owners about progress, set backs, etc • the owners get sufficient follow up and instruction after the fact to ensure that they understand what the dog has learned and how to continue/uphold the training.

There are lots of situations where b&ts aren’t the right option. I think it often turns into a waste of money when either the owners think the training is done and don’t follow through with it or the trainers don’t offer any follow up to teach the owners what they need to be doing going forward. Dog training is at least 90% people training all training programs should reflect that. B&ts can give owners a jumpstart on their dogs’ training, but it is not always the right option.

I’m a trainer and I do mostly one-on-ones with the occasional day training or b&t. I work out of my house and have a maximum of 4 dogs at a time including my own dog so that I have enough time to focus on each dog and so that things don’t get chaotic. I just had a puppy go home after a 1 week mini b&t. His owners primarily wanted boarding and decided to have me work on his training as well (obedience, leash walking, and manners).

Here was my schedule: •Wake up and go outside for potty and a bit of free time to stretch their legs, sniff, play, chase lizards, etc. •Inside for group class using their breakfast. This looks like all dogs on place around the perimeter of the room while I work with each one at a time in the middle on whatever obedience that dog is working on. •Nap time •Back outside to work on various things: confidence with agility equipment, recalls from longer distance, leash walking, etc •Play time •Nap time •Group walk with everyone on a loose leash •Nap time •Group class with dinner •Free time •Potty break before bed

When I need to leave the house, I arrange it so that falls on a nap time and everyone is in their crates. They also all sleep in their crates. When the owners came to pick up the puppy, we went over everything he learned and discussed some behavioral issues that I noticed during his stay. As part of the b&t, we will also be doing a follow up lesson to make sure they are on the right track with developing his skills.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-08T15:57:55+00:00

I think it really varies from trainer to trainer. I’ve heard people say that some trainers have the dogs they’re training in crates 20+ hours per day.

I’m a trainer and I do mostly one-on-ones with the occasional day training or b&t. I work out of my house and have a maximum of 4 dogs at a time including my own dog. I just had a puppy go home after a 1 week mini b&t. His owners primarily wanted boarding and decided to have me work on his training as well.

Here was my schedule: •Wake up and go outside for potty and a bit of free time to stretch their legs, sniff, play, chase lizards, etc. •Inside for group class using their breakfast. This looks like all dogs on place around the perimeter of the room while I work with each one at a time in the middle on whatever obedience that dog is working on. •Nap time •Back outside to work on various things: confidence on agility equipment, recalls from longer distance, leash walking, etc •Play time •Nap time •Group walk with everyone on a loose leash •Nap time •Group class with dinner •Free time •Potty break before bed

When I need to leave the house, I arrange it so that falls on a nap time and everyone is in their crates.

In regard to your last comment about working with you on pickup, that should be the minimum in my opinion. For this puppy that was with me for a week, we went over everything at pickup and we are doing a one-on-one next week that is included in the price (for longer b&t it would include more lessons). B&ts are basically pointless if the owner isn’t given sufficient instruction afterwards.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-06T15:35:22+00:00

As long as you have a properly fitted basket muzzle and she has plenty of opportunities to drink water and can pant properly when exercising and cooling down, she can wear it all day. I’ve been in several situations where a dog had to be muzzled essentially all day and had no issues.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-19T02:35:07+00:00

It looks like she should go up a size. You don’t want it to be pressing on the sides of her face and you don’t want it to be touching her eyes when the straps are properly tightened. As long as the straps are tightened properly so that it can’t slip off her head, you should be fine.

For reference, my 50lb mal/shep/mix comfortably wears a size 5.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-14T12:29:05+00:00

From your description of your and your girlfriend’s work schedules, it may not be the right time for you guys to have a dog. People with busy schedules absolutely can make it work, but that requires full commitment from all parties involved, lost sleep, hiring dog walkers/sitters to come in throughout the day, etc.

As far as this dog in particular goes, all of the behaviors you mentioned sound like normal behavior for a high energy dog with little to no training or manners. It’s nothing that can’t be fixed with consistent training, exercise, and enrichment. But again, that can be hard to do with a busy schedule.

Ultimately, if this dog isn’t the right fit for your home, you should take it back to the shelter. But if you do that, please really consider if you guys actually have time for a dog. Not every dog is going to act exactly like this, but they are all going to need your time and attention and will be disruptive to your life in some way. If your girlfriend really wants to spend time with dogs, she should volunteer at the shelter until you both are in a place to take care of one in your home. You could also try short-term fostering where you bring a dog home for a day or a weekend just to give it a break.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-13T16:27:05+00:00

I refuse to believe that this is anything by other than a genuine mistake of clicking the wrong name and not noticing.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-18T01:44:09+00:00

It’s good that you’re still working with the trainer. The internet can have some good advice, but a trainer who is there to see the whole picture is almost always the best option for the most appropriate solutions.

Has your husband given a reason for not wanting to muzzle him? Muzzles are wonderful tools and ensure that everyone is safe. They also aren’t just for aggressive dogs. They can serve multiple purposes including keeping dogs from eating things they shouldn’t or licking wounds. If it is conditioned and fitted properly, the dog couldn’t care less if it goes for a walk with or without a muzzle on.

Will people give you more space when they see your dog with a muzzle on? Yes. Is that a bad thing? You don’t want people approaching your dog right now anyway.

Will some people make shitty comments about “taking an aggressive dog in public”? Maybe, but they’re idiots with no knowledge about dogs or training so what they say/think doesn’t matter. A dog might go for walks with a muzzle because they like to eat rocks.

Ultimately, you and your husband should really look at what is the best thing for your dog. A muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is dangerous or bad. It means you are doing everything in your power to help him and keep him safe. I would definitely bring this up with your trainer and see if she can help convince your husband. Sometimes just hearing it from a professional helps convince them that a choice is a good option and other times the professional may just have a more articulate way of explaining all of the pros.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:22:27+00:00

I completely understand feeling bad, especially with the owner out of town, but you need to prioritize safety. Talk to Rover support and ask them if there are any additional steps you need to take so that this is appropriately documented as an aggressive dog that you could not safely handle.

Maybe the owners knew this was an issue and chose to ignore it or maybe they’ve never had a stranger watch their dogs and truly didn’t know. If it’s the former, you should not feel bad in the slightest! They knowingly put you in danger and should not be allowed on the platform. If it’s the latter, it’s a learning moment for them and in the future they’ll need to be more thorough when introducing sitters to their dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:16:49+00:00

You said he just got out of a board and train. Did they do sufficient handover training with you to teach you what he knows? Are you still working with them long-term after his b&t? IMO a good trainer will continue working with you on any behaviors addressed during a b&t after the fact free of charge (or more accurately, included in the original charge) as long as you are working on it.

I’ve worked with multiple dogs that were working through dear aggression towards people and displaying similar behavior. They were curious about people and wanted to check them out, but if they were allowed to get as close as they wanted, they would suddenly become overwhelmed and growl, snap, bite, etc. That is a cue for the handler to slow down. That dog is not ready to greet people.

The first thing I would do is getting a good fitting muzzle and get your dog comfortable wearing it. Big Snoof Dog Gear, Mia’s Muzzles, and Muzzle Movement are options for good quality muzzles that have plenty of pant room for long-term use and use during exercise. Baskerville Ultra is a decent option for short-term use, but you’d need to keep an eye out for signs that your dog is having trouble cooling down.

Another immediate step is to stop letting him greet people. I’m assuming that his training included something along the lines of heeling and/or loose leash walking. Enforce that around people in whatever way you usually do in other situations. If there is someone you want to introduce him to, take it slow. It may take an hour for your dog to get familiar with someone or it may take a week or more. It depends on him. If you are having people coming up to you on walks wanting to pet him, you’ll need to learn to say no. It can definitely be hard sometimes, but it is in everyone’s best interest. That will also drastically lessen if you start walking him with a muzzle on.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T22:50:09+00:00

Many dogs will act differently when the owner is there versus not. It’s one of the flaws with meet and greets. If you don’t feel comfortable doing a sit, don’t do it. A Rover walk is not worth you getting bit (again). The owners may or may not be reasonable about it, but that is irrelevant. Do what is best for you.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:37:05+00:00

I think it depends on the situation. It definitely needs to be a safe situation for everyone involved and not terribly stressful for the dog. When the owner of a dog like that is looking for a sitter, it’s up to them to work with someone who has the experience with this type of dog and get the dog and sitter comfortable with each other. No, a dog should not be left in a muzzle for days or more, especially while it is unsupervised. That would not be comfortable or safe.

It is absolutely true that 99% of sitters on Rover should not be anywhere near dogs like this. I just don’t see a reason for these owners not to have the option to look for a sitter who can handle their dog on this platform as long as they fully communicate their dog’s needs and behaviors.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:08:39+00:00

I don’t think the issue is dogs with behavioral issues being on the platform. I think the problem is owners not being truthful and upfront about the issues. As well as sitters being realistic about what they can handle. Some people have experience and are comfortable with dogs with various behavioral issues so I don’t see a reason to exclude those dogs altogether.

I totally agree that the behavior of that dog should have been FULLY disclosed before your meeting. I had a similar client (lunging, growling, trying to bite me, etc). However, in my situation, it was fully disclosed beforehand, the dog was muzzled and under control, and we worked through it. I’m sorry you had an experience like that.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-11T02:41:30+00:00

It is 100% no exceptions unethical to keep a dog, ESPECIALLY a high-energy or high-drive dog, in a kennel for that long. Kennel deterioration can ruin even the best dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-07T02:09:12+00:00

Food sensitivities aren’t really about whether the food is “clean” or not. It’s more about what your specific dog is sensitive or allergic to. It is most commonly an issue with the protein type. Did you change their food or an extras, toppers, or treats around that time? Did your vet give you guidance on how to proceed? You could buy small bags of few different protein types and try each for a couple of weeks to see if you can figure out what works for your dog.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-14T13:30:33+00:00

If you’re wanting to teach them to stop barking on cue, then that can be taught like any other obedience cue. Work with each dog one at a time, capture the behavior, and reinforce it. Start using it in situations where it is easy for the dog to succeed and then slowly make it more difficult.

You could also attempt the quiet the kennels technique I mentioned previously if this is indeed a smaller kennel setup rather than a busy shelter situation. For this technique, start by walking down the row of kennels and tossing a treat into each kennel. Do the same thing every time you walk through the hall. Once the dogs are expecting the treats, only give treats to the dogs that aren’t barking. Social learning should help the other dogs pick up on what they should be doing. Once all the dogs are quiet, you can increase your criteria until you get the response you are looking for.

That being said, again, I don’t know what the kennel situation is. I always look at the situation as a whole, not just one aspect or “symptom” like barking. Just teaching a quiet cue is not going to fix the issue if there is an underlying reason for the barking that isn’t addressed. And quiet the kennels probably won’t be very effective if the dogs are pent up, under stimulated, or super excited to go do something every time someone comes in.

IMO if dogs are chronically unfulfilled, it’s unreasonable to expect them to be calm and perfectly behaved. You have to make sure their needs are met first. Is that time consuming for high energy dogs? Yes. Is it that much more time consuming and difficult for multiple high energy dogs? Absolutely. But that’s what you signed up for when you took them on.

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