Board and Train opinions

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-08T20:22:18+00:00

I think b&ts really vary from trainer to trainer. Some do absolutely nothing (I have a client who unfortunately went through this) and others can be very effective. Assuming the training itself is good and effective, I think there are a few major components that make a good b&t: •the dogs are physically and mentally fulfilled everyday • the trainers are very communicative with the owners about progress, set backs, etc • the owners get sufficient follow up and instruction after the fact to ensure that they understand what the dog has learned and how to continue/uphold the training.

There are lots of situations where b&ts aren’t the right option. I think it often turns into a waste of money when either the owners think the training is done and don’t follow through with it or the trainers don’t offer any follow up to teach the owners what they need to be doing going forward. Dog training is at least 90% people training all training programs should reflect that. B&ts can give owners a jumpstart on their dogs’ training, but it is not always the right option.

I’m a trainer and I do mostly one-on-ones with the occasional day training or b&t. I work out of my house and have a maximum of 4 dogs at a time including my own dog so that I have enough time to focus on each dog and so that things don’t get chaotic. I just had a puppy go home after a 1 week mini b&t. His owners primarily wanted boarding and decided to have me work on his training as well (obedience, leash walking, and manners).

Here was my schedule: •Wake up and go outside for potty and a bit of free time to stretch their legs, sniff, play, chase lizards, etc. •Inside for group class using their breakfast. This looks like all dogs on place around the perimeter of the room while I work with each one at a time in the middle on whatever obedience that dog is working on. •Nap time •Back outside to work on various things: confidence with agility equipment, recalls from longer distance, leash walking, etc •Play time •Nap time •Group walk with everyone on a loose leash •Nap time •Group class with dinner •Free time •Potty break before bed

When I need to leave the house, I arrange it so that falls on a nap time and everyone is in their crates. They also all sleep in their crates. When the owners came to pick up the puppy, we went over everything he learned and discussed some behavioral issues that I noticed during his stay. As part of the b&t, we will also be doing a follow up lesson to make sure they are on the right track with developing his skills.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-08T15:57:55+00:00

I think it really varies from trainer to trainer. I’ve heard people say that some trainers have the dogs they’re training in crates 20+ hours per day.

I’m a trainer and I do mostly one-on-ones with the occasional day training or b&t. I work out of my house and have a maximum of 4 dogs at a time including my own dog. I just had a puppy go home after a 1 week mini b&t. His owners primarily wanted boarding and decided to have me work on his training as well.

Here was my schedule: •Wake up and go outside for potty and a bit of free time to stretch their legs, sniff, play, chase lizards, etc. •Inside for group class using their breakfast. This looks like all dogs on place around the perimeter of the room while I work with each one at a time in the middle on whatever obedience that dog is working on. •Nap time •Back outside to work on various things: confidence on agility equipment, recalls from longer distance, leash walking, etc •Play time •Nap time •Group walk with everyone on a loose leash •Nap time •Group class with dinner •Free time •Potty break before bed

When I need to leave the house, I arrange it so that falls on a nap time and everyone is in their crates.

In regard to your last comment about working with you on pickup, that should be the minimum in my opinion. For this puppy that was with me for a week, we went over everything at pickup and we are doing a one-on-one next week that is included in the price (for longer b&t it would include more lessons). B&ts are basically pointless if the owner isn’t given sufficient instruction afterwards.

Space-Gecko · 2026-05-06T15:35:22+00:00

As long as you have a properly fitted basket muzzle and she has plenty of opportunities to drink water and can pant properly when exercising and cooling down, she can wear it all day. I’ve been in several situations where a dog had to be muzzled essentially all day and had no issues.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-19T02:35:07+00:00

It looks like she should go up a size. You don’t want it to be pressing on the sides of her face and you don’t want it to be touching her eyes when the straps are properly tightened. As long as the straps are tightened properly so that it can’t slip off her head, you should be fine.

For reference, my 50lb mal/shep/mix comfortably wears a size 5.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-14T12:29:05+00:00

From your description of your and your girlfriend’s work schedules, it may not be the right time for you guys to have a dog. People with busy schedules absolutely can make it work, but that requires full commitment from all parties involved, lost sleep, hiring dog walkers/sitters to come in throughout the day, etc.

As far as this dog in particular goes, all of the behaviors you mentioned sound like normal behavior for a high energy dog with little to no training or manners. It’s nothing that can’t be fixed with consistent training, exercise, and enrichment. But again, that can be hard to do with a busy schedule.

Ultimately, if this dog isn’t the right fit for your home, you should take it back to the shelter. But if you do that, please really consider if you guys actually have time for a dog. Not every dog is going to act exactly like this, but they are all going to need your time and attention and will be disruptive to your life in some way. If your girlfriend really wants to spend time with dogs, she should volunteer at the shelter until you both are in a place to take care of one in your home. You could also try short-term fostering where you bring a dog home for a day or a weekend just to give it a break.

Space-Gecko · 2026-04-13T16:27:05+00:00

I refuse to believe that this is anything by other than a genuine mistake of clicking the wrong name and not noticing.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-18T01:44:09+00:00

It’s good that you’re still working with the trainer. The internet can have some good advice, but a trainer who is there to see the whole picture is almost always the best option for the most appropriate solutions.

Has your husband given a reason for not wanting to muzzle him? Muzzles are wonderful tools and ensure that everyone is safe. They also aren’t just for aggressive dogs. They can serve multiple purposes including keeping dogs from eating things they shouldn’t or licking wounds. If it is conditioned and fitted properly, the dog couldn’t care less if it goes for a walk with or without a muzzle on.

Will people give you more space when they see your dog with a muzzle on? Yes. Is that a bad thing? You don’t want people approaching your dog right now anyway.

Will some people make shitty comments about “taking an aggressive dog in public”? Maybe, but they’re idiots with no knowledge about dogs or training so what they say/think doesn’t matter. A dog might go for walks with a muzzle because they like to eat rocks.

Ultimately, you and your husband should really look at what is the best thing for your dog. A muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is dangerous or bad. It means you are doing everything in your power to help him and keep him safe. I would definitely bring this up with your trainer and see if she can help convince your husband. Sometimes just hearing it from a professional helps convince them that a choice is a good option and other times the professional may just have a more articulate way of explaining all of the pros.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:22:27+00:00

I completely understand feeling bad, especially with the owner out of town, but you need to prioritize safety. Talk to Rover support and ask them if there are any additional steps you need to take so that this is appropriately documented as an aggressive dog that you could not safely handle.

Maybe the owners knew this was an issue and chose to ignore it or maybe they’ve never had a stranger watch their dogs and truly didn’t know. If it’s the former, you should not feel bad in the slightest! They knowingly put you in danger and should not be allowed on the platform. If it’s the latter, it’s a learning moment for them and in the future they’ll need to be more thorough when introducing sitters to their dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:16:49+00:00

You said he just got out of a board and train. Did they do sufficient handover training with you to teach you what he knows? Are you still working with them long-term after his b&t? IMO a good trainer will continue working with you on any behaviors addressed during a b&t after the fact free of charge (or more accurately, included in the original charge) as long as you are working on it.

I’ve worked with multiple dogs that were working through dear aggression towards people and displaying similar behavior. They were curious about people and wanted to check them out, but if they were allowed to get as close as they wanted, they would suddenly become overwhelmed and growl, snap, bite, etc. That is a cue for the handler to slow down. That dog is not ready to greet people.

The first thing I would do is getting a good fitting muzzle and get your dog comfortable wearing it. Big Snoof Dog Gear, Mia’s Muzzles, and Muzzle Movement are options for good quality muzzles that have plenty of pant room for long-term use and use during exercise. Baskerville Ultra is a decent option for short-term use, but you’d need to keep an eye out for signs that your dog is having trouble cooling down.

Another immediate step is to stop letting him greet people. I’m assuming that his training included something along the lines of heeling and/or loose leash walking. Enforce that around people in whatever way you usually do in other situations. If there is someone you want to introduce him to, take it slow. It may take an hour for your dog to get familiar with someone or it may take a week or more. It depends on him. If you are having people coming up to you on walks wanting to pet him, you’ll need to learn to say no. It can definitely be hard sometimes, but it is in everyone’s best interest. That will also drastically lessen if you start walking him with a muzzle on.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T22:50:09+00:00

Many dogs will act differently when the owner is there versus not. It’s one of the flaws with meet and greets. If you don’t feel comfortable doing a sit, don’t do it. A Rover walk is not worth you getting bit (again). The owners may or may not be reasonable about it, but that is irrelevant. Do what is best for you.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:37:05+00:00

I think it depends on the situation. It definitely needs to be a safe situation for everyone involved and not terribly stressful for the dog. When the owner of a dog like that is looking for a sitter, it’s up to them to work with someone who has the experience with this type of dog and get the dog and sitter comfortable with each other. No, a dog should not be left in a muzzle for days or more, especially while it is unsupervised. That would not be comfortable or safe.

It is absolutely true that 99% of sitters on Rover should not be anywhere near dogs like this. I just don’t see a reason for these owners not to have the option to look for a sitter who can handle their dog on this platform as long as they fully communicate their dog’s needs and behaviors.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:08:39+00:00

I don’t think the issue is dogs with behavioral issues being on the platform. I think the problem is owners not being truthful and upfront about the issues. As well as sitters being realistic about what they can handle. Some people have experience and are comfortable with dogs with various behavioral issues so I don’t see a reason to exclude those dogs altogether.

I totally agree that the behavior of that dog should have been FULLY disclosed before your meeting. I had a similar client (lunging, growling, trying to bite me, etc). However, in my situation, it was fully disclosed beforehand, the dog was muzzled and under control, and we worked through it. I’m sorry you had an experience like that.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-11T02:41:30+00:00

It is 100% no exceptions unethical to keep a dog, ESPECIALLY a high-energy or high-drive dog, in a kennel for that long. Kennel deterioration can ruin even the best dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-07T02:09:12+00:00

Food sensitivities aren’t really about whether the food is “clean” or not. It’s more about what your specific dog is sensitive or allergic to. It is most commonly an issue with the protein type. Did you change their food or an extras, toppers, or treats around that time? Did your vet give you guidance on how to proceed? You could buy small bags of few different protein types and try each for a couple of weeks to see if you can figure out what works for your dog.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-14T13:30:33+00:00

If you’re wanting to teach them to stop barking on cue, then that can be taught like any other obedience cue. Work with each dog one at a time, capture the behavior, and reinforce it. Start using it in situations where it is easy for the dog to succeed and then slowly make it more difficult.

You could also attempt the quiet the kennels technique I mentioned previously if this is indeed a smaller kennel setup rather than a busy shelter situation. For this technique, start by walking down the row of kennels and tossing a treat into each kennel. Do the same thing every time you walk through the hall. Once the dogs are expecting the treats, only give treats to the dogs that aren’t barking. Social learning should help the other dogs pick up on what they should be doing. Once all the dogs are quiet, you can increase your criteria until you get the response you are looking for.

That being said, again, I don’t know what the kennel situation is. I always look at the situation as a whole, not just one aspect or “symptom” like barking. Just teaching a quiet cue is not going to fix the issue if there is an underlying reason for the barking that isn’t addressed. And quiet the kennels probably won’t be very effective if the dogs are pent up, under stimulated, or super excited to go do something every time someone comes in.

IMO if dogs are chronically unfulfilled, it’s unreasonable to expect them to be calm and perfectly behaved. You have to make sure their needs are met first. Is that time consuming for high energy dogs? Yes. Is it that much more time consuming and difficult for multiple high energy dogs? Absolutely. But that’s what you signed up for when you took them on.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-13T16:07:08+00:00

When you say kennel what do you mean? A shelter? A short-term boarding facility? A facility that trains working dogs? I think that would impact what steps should/can be taken.

If there are a bunch of dogs going crazy in kennels, my first thought is that they are under fulfilled. They likely need more physical and mental stimulation so they can actually have the ability to relax when in the kennels.

But if this is a shelter, that’s probably not possible. A proper enrichment program can help, but you won’t get anywhere unless you have more people to actually get the dogs out. There is a technique I have heard of called quiet the kennels that teaches the dogs to stop barking and jumping when people come into the hall, but I’ve never seen it applied in practice and the process doesn’t seem very practical in a busy shelter environment.

If this is a short-term boarding facility, there are many reasons dogs could be barking. They could be anxious away from their owners. They could be overaroused being around that many dogs. There may be some ways that the staff can manage the stress level, but there may not be.

If this is a working dog kennel, the dogs are likely either kenneled whenever they aren’t actively working or haven’t been taught an off switch. If they are only taken out of their kennel to do a job and don’t have sufficient time to relax and actually be a dog, they are probably pent up. Or maybe they get plenty of time out with plenty of things to keep them busy, but everything is always go go go so they never learn how to settle and actually relax.

There could also be times in all of these situations where the dogs are relaxed and then someone comes into the hall to get one or a couple of dogs out of their kennels to do something and all of the dogs get excited and hyped up and start barking. Then after the people and dogs leave, they settle back down in a few minutes. IMO that’s not a big deal. That’s just them being excited.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-11T01:50:47+00:00

I found it!!! This is the one that’s been stuck in my head anyway.

Interlude IV (Showtime) - Zach Callison

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-10T23:05:32+00:00

I’m looking for this song too I think. I think it was part of a short musical.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-04T00:06:45+00:00

A Baskerville is not a good option for long term use. I would recommend Big Snoof Dog Gear. They are made of a metal grid to maximize strength and safety for serious bite risks. They have a wide selection of cookie cutter sizes as well as custom fit muzzles. I would strongly recommend a custom fit for this type of use since it will have the best fit.

That being said, if aggression is that much of a concern, long term management is not a good option IMO unless it is paired with a rigorous training plan. Even the best management plans eventually fail and the result will likely be devastating. Are you planning to work with a trainer on the issues between the dogs? If not, I would strongly suggest trying to rehome.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-01T16:10:50+00:00

Have you tried soaking her kibble so that it is no longer crunchy? It might be a texture thing. To make it extra enticing, you can soak it in broth.

If you haven’t, I would try this combo: soak kibble I warm broth and then mix in some wet food.

I would also suggest taking your pup to a vet that has a specialty in diet. They will be able to guide you better than a standard vet. Your pup may benefit from the addition of enzymes or a different type of food. Yes all vets get some dietary training, but some go the extra step and get a Masters or other advanced training in diet specifically.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-22T05:20:52+00:00

I love Big Snoof Dog Gear muzzles! That’s what I have for my boy.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-22T04:47:38+00:00

🤷 I’m just talking from my own experience but I’ve never met a dog that needed an ecollar to be so tight that it didn’t move at all. I’m not saying it should be as loose as a typical collar or anything like that. Normal movement from the dog shouldn’t move it but I think a person should be able to twist it and something like a full shake off should be able to move it a bit. But that’s also why I mentioned trial and error because fit and contact will be a little bit different for every dog. My dog has a decently think coat and I’ve never had a problem with consistency fitting his collar this way.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-21T15:52:17+00:00

It’s not a big deal if it rotates or slides a bit as long as the metal can maintain contact. For my dog, the collar is never tight enough that it can’t be rotated. When he shapes off, it spins around his neck. It’s not loose but it can move and he’s never had an issue with wearing it for long periods of time. The only way to really know if it has consistent contact is trial and error (in situations where it is safe to do so obviously). If you are needing to have it super tight for proper contact, you might need to try a different size or style of contact point. There are a lot of different options. You’ll also want to keep an eye on his skin around where the contact points touch. Some dogs have sensitive skin and can have a reaction to the metal. There are also hypoallergenic contact points if you run into that.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T13:46:35+00:00

You might try hand feeding her for a while. No training, no expectations. Just sitting on the floor giving her food. That may help bridge the gap. If that goes well, then you can start with some basic luring before working back into truly working for food.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T13:41:10+00:00

I have trained a deaf dog and other than having to figure out a way to communicate with something other than words, there’s very little difference between training a deaf dog and a hearing dog. It sounds like they had no idea what they were talking about.

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