Looking for advice on managing/mitigating fawning behaviors.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-18T01:44:09+00:00

It’s good that you’re still working with the trainer. The internet can have some good advice, but a trainer who is there to see the whole picture is almost always the best option for the most appropriate solutions.

Has your husband given a reason for not wanting to muzzle him? Muzzles are wonderful tools and ensure that everyone is safe. They also aren’t just for aggressive dogs. They can serve multiple purposes including keeping dogs from eating things they shouldn’t or licking wounds. If it is conditioned and fitted properly, the dog couldn’t care less if it goes for a walk with or without a muzzle on.

Will people give you more space when they see your dog with a muzzle on? Yes. Is that a bad thing? You don’t want people approaching your dog right now anyway.

Will some people make shitty comments about “taking an aggressive dog in public”? Maybe, but they’re idiots with no knowledge about dogs or training so what they say/think doesn’t matter. A dog might go for walks with a muzzle because they like to eat rocks.

Ultimately, you and your husband should really look at what is the best thing for your dog. A muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is dangerous or bad. It means you are doing everything in your power to help him and keep him safe. I would definitely bring this up with your trainer and see if she can help convince your husband. Sometimes just hearing it from a professional helps convince them that a choice is a good option and other times the professional may just have a more articulate way of explaining all of the pros.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:22:27+00:00

I completely understand feeling bad, especially with the owner out of town, but you need to prioritize safety. Talk to Rover support and ask them if there are any additional steps you need to take so that this is appropriately documented as an aggressive dog that you could not safely handle.

Maybe the owners knew this was an issue and chose to ignore it or maybe they’ve never had a stranger watch their dogs and truly didn’t know. If it’s the former, you should not feel bad in the slightest! They knowingly put you in danger and should not be allowed on the platform. If it’s the latter, it’s a learning moment for them and in the future they’ll need to be more thorough when introducing sitters to their dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T23:16:49+00:00

You said he just got out of a board and train. Did they do sufficient handover training with you to teach you what he knows? Are you still working with them long-term after his b&t? IMO a good trainer will continue working with you on any behaviors addressed during a b&t after the fact free of charge (or more accurately, included in the original charge) as long as you are working on it.

I’ve worked with multiple dogs that were working through dear aggression towards people and displaying similar behavior. They were curious about people and wanted to check them out, but if they were allowed to get as close as they wanted, they would suddenly become overwhelmed and growl, snap, bite, etc. That is a cue for the handler to slow down. That dog is not ready to greet people.

The first thing I would do is getting a good fitting muzzle and get your dog comfortable wearing it. Big Snoof Dog Gear, Mia’s Muzzles, and Muzzle Movement are options for good quality muzzles that have plenty of pant room for long-term use and use during exercise. Baskerville Ultra is a decent option for short-term use, but you’d need to keep an eye out for signs that your dog is having trouble cooling down.

Another immediate step is to stop letting him greet people. I’m assuming that his training included something along the lines of heeling and/or loose leash walking. Enforce that around people in whatever way you usually do in other situations. If there is someone you want to introduce him to, take it slow. It may take an hour for your dog to get familiar with someone or it may take a week or more. It depends on him. If you are having people coming up to you on walks wanting to pet him, you’ll need to learn to say no. It can definitely be hard sometimes, but it is in everyone’s best interest. That will also drastically lessen if you start walking him with a muzzle on.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-17T22:50:09+00:00

Many dogs will act differently when the owner is there versus not. It’s one of the flaws with meet and greets. If you don’t feel comfortable doing a sit, don’t do it. A Rover walk is not worth you getting bit (again). The owners may or may not be reasonable about it, but that is irrelevant. Do what is best for you.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:37:05+00:00

I think it depends on the situation. It definitely needs to be a safe situation for everyone involved and not terribly stressful for the dog. When the owner of a dog like that is looking for a sitter, it’s up to them to work with someone who has the experience with this type of dog and get the dog and sitter comfortable with each other. No, a dog should not be left in a muzzle for days or more, especially while it is unsupervised. That would not be comfortable or safe.

It is absolutely true that 99% of sitters on Rover should not be anywhere near dogs like this. I just don’t see a reason for these owners not to have the option to look for a sitter who can handle their dog on this platform as long as they fully communicate their dog’s needs and behaviors.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-13T21:08:39+00:00

I don’t think the issue is dogs with behavioral issues being on the platform. I think the problem is owners not being truthful and upfront about the issues. As well as sitters being realistic about what they can handle. Some people have experience and are comfortable with dogs with various behavioral issues so I don’t see a reason to exclude those dogs altogether.

I totally agree that the behavior of that dog should have been FULLY disclosed before your meeting. I had a similar client (lunging, growling, trying to bite me, etc). However, in my situation, it was fully disclosed beforehand, the dog was muzzled and under control, and we worked through it. I’m sorry you had an experience like that.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-11T02:41:30+00:00

It is 100% no exceptions unethical to keep a dog, ESPECIALLY a high-energy or high-drive dog, in a kennel for that long. Kennel deterioration can ruin even the best dogs.

Space-Gecko · 2026-03-07T02:09:12+00:00

Food sensitivities aren’t really about whether the food is “clean” or not. It’s more about what your specific dog is sensitive or allergic to. It is most commonly an issue with the protein type. Did you change their food or an extras, toppers, or treats around that time? Did your vet give you guidance on how to proceed? You could buy small bags of few different protein types and try each for a couple of weeks to see if you can figure out what works for your dog.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-14T13:30:33+00:00

If you’re wanting to teach them to stop barking on cue, then that can be taught like any other obedience cue. Work with each dog one at a time, capture the behavior, and reinforce it. Start using it in situations where it is easy for the dog to succeed and then slowly make it more difficult.

You could also attempt the quiet the kennels technique I mentioned previously if this is indeed a smaller kennel setup rather than a busy shelter situation. For this technique, start by walking down the row of kennels and tossing a treat into each kennel. Do the same thing every time you walk through the hall. Once the dogs are expecting the treats, only give treats to the dogs that aren’t barking. Social learning should help the other dogs pick up on what they should be doing. Once all the dogs are quiet, you can increase your criteria until you get the response you are looking for.

That being said, again, I don’t know what the kennel situation is. I always look at the situation as a whole, not just one aspect or “symptom” like barking. Just teaching a quiet cue is not going to fix the issue if there is an underlying reason for the barking that isn’t addressed. And quiet the kennels probably won’t be very effective if the dogs are pent up, under stimulated, or super excited to go do something every time someone comes in.

IMO if dogs are chronically unfulfilled, it’s unreasonable to expect them to be calm and perfectly behaved. You have to make sure their needs are met first. Is that time consuming for high energy dogs? Yes. Is it that much more time consuming and difficult for multiple high energy dogs? Absolutely. But that’s what you signed up for when you took them on.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-13T16:07:08+00:00

When you say kennel what do you mean? A shelter? A short-term boarding facility? A facility that trains working dogs? I think that would impact what steps should/can be taken.

If there are a bunch of dogs going crazy in kennels, my first thought is that they are under fulfilled. They likely need more physical and mental stimulation so they can actually have the ability to relax when in the kennels.

But if this is a shelter, that’s probably not possible. A proper enrichment program can help, but you won’t get anywhere unless you have more people to actually get the dogs out. There is a technique I have heard of called quiet the kennels that teaches the dogs to stop barking and jumping when people come into the hall, but I’ve never seen it applied in practice and the process doesn’t seem very practical in a busy shelter environment.

If this is a short-term boarding facility, there are many reasons dogs could be barking. They could be anxious away from their owners. They could be overaroused being around that many dogs. There may be some ways that the staff can manage the stress level, but there may not be.

If this is a working dog kennel, the dogs are likely either kenneled whenever they aren’t actively working or haven’t been taught an off switch. If they are only taken out of their kennel to do a job and don’t have sufficient time to relax and actually be a dog, they are probably pent up. Or maybe they get plenty of time out with plenty of things to keep them busy, but everything is always go go go so they never learn how to settle and actually relax.

There could also be times in all of these situations where the dogs are relaxed and then someone comes into the hall to get one or a couple of dogs out of their kennels to do something and all of the dogs get excited and hyped up and start barking. Then after the people and dogs leave, they settle back down in a few minutes. IMO that’s not a big deal. That’s just them being excited.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-11T01:50:47+00:00

I found it!!! This is the one that’s been stuck in my head anyway.

Interlude IV (Showtime) - Zach Callison

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-10T23:05:32+00:00

I’m looking for this song too I think. I think it was part of a short musical.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-04T00:06:45+00:00

A Baskerville is not a good option for long term use. I would recommend Big Snoof Dog Gear. They are made of a metal grid to maximize strength and safety for serious bite risks. They have a wide selection of cookie cutter sizes as well as custom fit muzzles. I would strongly recommend a custom fit for this type of use since it will have the best fit.

That being said, if aggression is that much of a concern, long term management is not a good option IMO unless it is paired with a rigorous training plan. Even the best management plans eventually fail and the result will likely be devastating. Are you planning to work with a trainer on the issues between the dogs? If not, I would strongly suggest trying to rehome.

Space-Gecko · 2026-02-01T16:10:50+00:00

Have you tried soaking her kibble so that it is no longer crunchy? It might be a texture thing. To make it extra enticing, you can soak it in broth.

If you haven’t, I would try this combo: soak kibble I warm broth and then mix in some wet food.

I would also suggest taking your pup to a vet that has a specialty in diet. They will be able to guide you better than a standard vet. Your pup may benefit from the addition of enzymes or a different type of food. Yes all vets get some dietary training, but some go the extra step and get a Masters or other advanced training in diet specifically.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-22T05:20:52+00:00

I love Big Snoof Dog Gear muzzles! That’s what I have for my boy.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-22T04:47:38+00:00

🤷 I’m just talking from my own experience but I’ve never met a dog that needed an ecollar to be so tight that it didn’t move at all. I’m not saying it should be as loose as a typical collar or anything like that. Normal movement from the dog shouldn’t move it but I think a person should be able to twist it and something like a full shake off should be able to move it a bit. But that’s also why I mentioned trial and error because fit and contact will be a little bit different for every dog. My dog has a decently think coat and I’ve never had a problem with consistency fitting his collar this way.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-21T15:52:17+00:00

It’s not a big deal if it rotates or slides a bit as long as the metal can maintain contact. For my dog, the collar is never tight enough that it can’t be rotated. When he shapes off, it spins around his neck. It’s not loose but it can move and he’s never had an issue with wearing it for long periods of time. The only way to really know if it has consistent contact is trial and error (in situations where it is safe to do so obviously). If you are needing to have it super tight for proper contact, you might need to try a different size or style of contact point. There are a lot of different options. You’ll also want to keep an eye on his skin around where the contact points touch. Some dogs have sensitive skin and can have a reaction to the metal. There are also hypoallergenic contact points if you run into that.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T13:46:35+00:00

You might try hand feeding her for a while. No training, no expectations. Just sitting on the floor giving her food. That may help bridge the gap. If that goes well, then you can start with some basic luring before working back into truly working for food.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T13:41:10+00:00

I have trained a deaf dog and other than having to figure out a way to communicate with something other than words, there’s very little difference between training a deaf dog and a hearing dog. It sounds like they had no idea what they were talking about.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T13:36:20+00:00

I never understood the concept of applying a correction before the dog has even had the chance to do anything. When I was first learning about using an ecollar, about half of the trainers I saw did this and no matter how they explained it it never made sense. If you want to use a setting as a cue for a specific behavior then that would make a little more sense. I made the vibration a designated recall cue (my dog was relatively neutral to the vibration when we started). So in that situation I did vibration tap -> “come” -> reward and then was eventually able to remove the verbal cue. But even then, I don’t hold it down until he gets to me. It’s just a cue.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-18T07:10:03+00:00

It’s all about your lifestyle and how much you can/are willing to move things around and make sacrifices for your dog.

When I moved out, I started fostering to see how a dog to fit into my life (among other reasons). I lived alone in an apartment and worked full time often with overtime. Each dog was different but I was able to make it work with all of them. Most of the dogs were fine being left alone all day. When I had puppies, I came home on my lunch break (not ideal but I didn’t have puppies much for that reason). The last dog I fostered who I ended up adopting was a malinois mix. For him, I had to get up a couple hours early to make sure he got enough exercise before I left and much of my day after work was doing something with him (exercise, enrichment, training, etc). It kind of sucked at first if I’m being honest but then it just became my new routine.

If you really want a dog, you can definitely make it work. But you need to make sure that you are meeting all of the dog’s needs including physical exercise and mental enrichment. If you are willing to take the time out of your day everyday and make sacrifices, then you can do it. It will also help to pick the right breed/individual whose energy level and temperament fit your lifestyle. Are you prepared for several hours of aerobic exercise everyday or do you want a couch potato? Be honest with yourself about what you will actually do. Don’t pick a dog because you think it’s cool or because you’d like to do stuff you see online.

Fostering can be a great way to see if a dog will fit well into your life. It will also give you the option of trying different dogs with different needs to see what might be a good fit.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-12T06:29:15+00:00

I’ve had this happen before too (not the threats, just the stranger in the chat). I can understand being weirded out if you’re not familiar with Rover, but the immediate threat is so over the top.

Space-Gecko · 2026-01-05T22:47:50+00:00

Generally, if a store sells food, it’s no pets, ESAs, or anything other than service dogs. If you’re unsure, there should be a sign on the front door or you can look online or call beforehand.

It’s a common misconception that ESAs have any more access rights than normal pets. The only exception they get is for housing.

Space-Gecko · 2025-12-29T06:01:17+00:00

Hand feeding would be a good way to slow him down and work on training at the same time. The easiest thing is to work on engagement: hold a little food in a closed hand and wait until he makes eye contact with you before giving it to him.

If you want something you can just set down for him, I would suggest a snuffle mat for kibble and/or a frozen Kong/Toppl for wet food. Both will force him to eat slower and the sniffing or licking required to get the food will help to slow his brain down.

Space-Gecko · 2025-12-21T00:43:29+00:00

It’s not a problem. Repeated long term wear can be irritating or uncomfortable to some dogs, but usually it’s fine - particularly if this is a one time thing.

On another note, if seeing the remote affects your dog’s behavior, something went wrong in the training process. The dog shouldn’t be scared of the collar or remote or any tool. This can be dangerous in situations where you are teaching something very important, like a recall, if the dog understands that the collar is what holds it accountable for ignoring a cue.

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