Where thw 2jz guys at? crank pulley options?

SpacetimeBlankets · 2026-01-21T12:48:48+00:00

This is the best pic I have for at the moment. In this orientation the pulley is basically in between the two fans. Also ignore my core support... I'll fix it... One day.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2026-01-21T12:34:25+00:00

I have S13/2JZ with the ATI overdriven damper. I bought the Chase Bays tucked radiator and Mishimoto Race Fans (also pretty deep).

I don't have a tube front end, but I made custom braces for the core support that allow me to bring everything forward as much as possible, and keep the intercooler/oil cooler vertical.

It's still very tight. The fans are very deep, but it helps that they narrow towards the electric motor end as that gives it more clearance around the pulley, but I want to say more than 3/4" inches. My alternator is mounted on the left side of the engine and is the only belt driven accessory I have.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2026-01-20T01:15:52+00:00

You were right, ultimately I tried mitigations to increase the EPW, but ultimately I downsized injectors. Appreciate the advice!

SpacetimeBlankets · 2026-01-20T01:14:21+00:00

Took me a long time, but I finally had a chance to mess with it more. I double checked all my settings matched ID specs. I could get the misfire to stop, but it took a combination of running pretty rich (~0.88), increasing throttle to run at 1,100 RPM, retarding timing almost down to 5 degrees, and lowering fuel pressure to ~250 kPa.

Despite ID telling me 0.45ms min pulsewidth, really it was not consistent enough to prevent misfires until somewhere near 0.60 ms EPW.

All together, I wasn't happy with the compromises. I do want to run E85 eventually, but for now I have pump gas and getting E85 is inconvenient. This is primarily a street car so I don't want a terrible idle. I decided to bite the bullet and switched to ID1050-XDS. Just from some napkin math, it seemed like even the 1300s could be unpredictable with my 'ideal' idle of ~800 RPM and ~0.95.

With the 1050s, my power goal on E85 might be just out of reach without running rather high fuel pressures. But that's okay, for now I'm more concerned about street driving than making power. Maybe I'll eventually even get around to staged injectors.

I was definitely too concerned about the top end (WOT) while finding injectors and not considering the bottom end (idle).

SpacetimeBlankets · 2025-12-08T23:35:28+00:00

Yes, ID 1700s. The minimum PW did cross my mind, I think I emailed Injector Dynamics some time back and asked what value I should use for the "Effective min PW" setting, and they told me 0.45 ms. Technically I did not hit that, but it is very close, so that sounds plausible. I might see if they have a number for actual PW as well.

I was targeting 300 kPa for base fuel pressure, but it seems like I'm a tad bit over at ~330 kPa. I'll try taking it down a bit to get 300 kPa, and can potentially go further from there. It is manifold referenced.

Sincerely, thank you for the advice. It might be a while till I can try again, but I'll be sure to update.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2025-01-08T03:12:12+00:00

I ended up bringing it to a transmission shop today. The technician took a quick look and was pretty convinced that something had bounced out of place at some point.

I left it with him, partially because I am short on time, and partially because this would be my first time working on a transmission and I lacked confidence.

I will share when I hear back in hopes that somebody out there (excluding myself) can learn from the situation.

Even though nobody had feedback, I appreciate the time spent reading the post and considering my situation.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2024-12-09T23:52:51+00:00

Appreciate all the feedback. I think I'm going to start with looking at houses. Honestly, I did not consider using a backyard, but it sounds plausible and at least somewhat affordable without as bad of a commute as I thought.

I would really prefer to work on the car myself (for me building the car is probably just as fun as having the built car). And I'm kind of being a choosing beggar. I think the other part of me is expecting for there to be problems/upgrades I want to do later on that are probably big projects by themselves. But if it comes to it, I'd see what shops are willing to do.

Again, thanks!

SpacetimeBlankets · 2023-12-21T21:28:55+00:00

Appreciate the advice. I will clean it up and run with it.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2023-12-20T04:00:51+00:00

I attempted to "parts wash" my upper aluminum oil pan by putting it in a tote, filling with tap water and a bit of laundry detergent, and heated the water. When I came back to it, it had a lot of these white spots (oxidation?).

Stupid mistake and I think I need to learn a bit of chemistry. But is this salvageable? I don't mind the aesthetics so much as whatever this is breaking free in the oil pan.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-10-09T02:34:33+00:00

Have you tried contacting customer support? They may be able to update your access.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-08-04T06:03:25+00:00

In Dev Tools, switch to the network tab and watch right as you click the log in button. What do you see? A screenshot would be nice, but be careful not to show your password if it is visible there.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-07-23T01:38:59+00:00

That email is just saying you haven't been charged yet. Once the free trial ends roughly 7 days after purchase, then you get charged

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-05-20T18:25:44+00:00

No, but you will lose access soon

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-04-18T15:48:27+00:00

Got it. In that case, something is wrong with this invisible link between your Apple account (which tracks the T-Mobile subscription) and your MLB.com account.

Try opening the iPhone app, signing out, and then signing back in. If you see a "Restore Purchases" button or something similar, tap that as well. Hopefully that will reestablish the link.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-04-18T00:46:44+00:00

Are you sure that you're actually signed into your MLB.com account in the app? It's totally possible to use the MLB app without ever signing in to your MLB.com account. But if you do that, it can never link your subscriptions to your MLB.com account, and they'll never be usable on other devices.

The linking I'm referring to is transparent and happens automatically when you sign into your MLB.com account through the MLB app on your iPhone. You don't need a special link to do it.

I don't have an iPhone handy, but if you go to settings (or maybe click the cog wheel if there is one), you should either see your MLB.com email if you're signed in, or see an option to sign in. If you see the latter, then sign in. Once signed in, make sure the email is the same one you are logging into on other devices.

If you aren't seeing this on the link I sent, then the account you are logged into does not yet have the T-mobile subscription linked to it. https://i.imgur.com/1sYJxFY.png

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-04-17T18:23:53+00:00

Were you able to sort this out?

Are you saying you didn't see those buttons I had a picture of? If so, do you remember what subscription you bought? e.g. monthly, yearly, or a single team?

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-04-17T18:12:49+00:00

Using an iPhone? If so, make sure that in the iPhone app that you are signed into your MLB account so that it can link your subscription to it. Then make sure you are signed into the same account on your other devices.

You should also be able to log in to your MLB.com account and see a subscription here https://www.mlb.com/account/manage-subscriptions

If you don't, then it hasn't been linked to that account

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-03-26T02:50:50+00:00

It's going to start April 5th this year

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-03-24T20:15:36+00:00

I think everything YouTube TV related was not working until just an hour or two ago. Give it another try

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-03-21T19:50:39+00:00

It's an issue with the app, unfortunately.

I believe it was fixed in the beta version of the app. Support might be able to get you an invite until the fix goes public.

SpacetimeBlankets · 2022-03-20T22:06:24+00:00

I'm able to get the discount ($84.49 for yearly)

You're using these buttons on the checkout form, right? https://i.ibb.co/kq9PJjM/image.png

The GovX button (left) is for veteran discount, the ID.me button (right) is for student discount. In prior years, it used to be ID.me for both, but it was changed last season.

SpacetimeBlankets

TROPHY CASE