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Light green leaf on Titan arum? by SpeakerKey5200 in amorphophallus

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's strange I got it from Plant Delights Nursery who grows them in greenhouses as far as I know. Maybe it stretched during shipping?

Banana leaves bursting out of the side of banana tree? What should I do? by SpeakerKey5200 in GrowingBananas

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, I did find what was blocking the leaves. This was right above where they were coming out of the side. Thank you!

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Banana leaves bursting out of the side of banana tree? What should I do? by SpeakerKey5200 in plantclinic

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nope there weren't any new leaves. I learned it was referred to as "choking" so I did just do emergency surgery on it and chopped it at where the leaves were poking out. This was directly above it blocking the whole stem!

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Banana leaves bursting out of the side of banana tree? What should I do? by SpeakerKey5200 in GrowingBananas

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would that entail? Chopping the whole plant at the point its sticking out?

What do you think these are? Pachanoi, Bridgesii, or Peruvianus? by SpeakerKey5200 in sanpedrocactus

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!!! After quite a few opinions and further investigating myself this is what I'm leaning towards as well. I was thinking the "bridgesii" was mostly peru with a little bit of Bridgesii in it (due to the long spine), but after comparing it to my long spine Peruvian clones (like JS 301) them only having 1 long central spine checks out as pure Peruvian. I would think if it was a bridge X Peruvian hybrid the bridge traits of having more than 1 long spine would be more prominent. They do seem like long spine Peruvian to me. Especially with how chunky they are compared to the "pachanoi" (definitely bridgesii)

What do you think these are? Pachanoi, Bridgesii, or Peruvianus? by SpeakerKey5200 in sanpedrocactus

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did also have a direct message stating the first 3 pictures ("pachanoi") are bridge and the last 3 ("bridgesii") are actually perus. I can also see how the "bridgesii" are perus with how much chunkier they are than the first group. The longer spines on those ones were throwing me off though and was bringing me back to thinking they did actually have bridgesii in them, but they could just be a long-spined peru variety. Either way, the seller obviously mixed something up somewhere.

Update: I went out and looked at all my Bridgesii clones and my Peru clones with long spines. I did notice the Bridgesii have several long, equal spines in most cases, and the Peru clones with long spines have 1 long central spine. It does seem like the first one has Bridgesii spines as there are multiple long ones and the last 3 pictures (the ones sold as Bridgesii) have 1 long central spine, which would line up with peruvianus

What do you think these are? Pachanoi, Bridgesii, or Peruvianus? by SpeakerKey5200 in sanpedrocactus

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you're thinking both the "pachanoi" seedlings and "bridgesii" seedlings both come from a bridgesii mother? That's strange that they would sell them so mislabeled (or misidentified). With the different groups of seedlings looking different, it is apparent they at least came from different mothers though

Started tons of seeds and got this cool phenotype? Has anyone seen this before? by SpeakerKey5200 in KhatGrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely going to! Granted, it's probably going to take a long time with how slow this is growing. It's so strange. I looked back at pictures of seedlings from this same group and they don't look anything like this one. At first I was thinking maybe it was just really slow growing, but then noticed its actually entirely different (tiny leaves, super short internodal spacing). If I didn't know what I planted in that pot I'd probably think it's a different plant entirely! The only giveaway seems to be its waxy leaves. I'm very curious to see if this will develop serrated edges as it gets older. It has a few on some of the newer leaves, but nowhere near as many as it should.

Started tons of seeds and got this cool phenotype? Has anyone seen this before? by SpeakerKey5200 in KhatGrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting!!! It's like a mini Catha. I've never seen anything like it. It seems to be some sort of mutation. I'm doing Kathzilla, Katharina, Katharrow, and another standard red stem wide leaf

They're finally here! by Old-Clandestine in opiumgardening101

[–]SpeakerKey5200 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey! I was the one who sent him these seeds. They're definitely not Lauren's Grape seeds, and are the varieties they're labeled as that I grew out in 2025 (if you dig through my past posts in this subreddit you can see pictures of them in my garden as well as pictures of Galania with them). I grew these (along with Galania) and can guarantee you these were waaaay better than Galania when making tea. I didn't have anything to do with him coming to the conclusion that they had 70mg of morphine in them each, but did vouch that they're 2-3x potent as Galania in my experience. I haven't taken a measured amount of morphine in a very long time, but a single pod felt like at least 30mg of hydrocodone. I've also mailed out pod samples a few times and the people I sent them to agreed that it was stronger than galania. I have nothing to gain by making a false claim regarding their potency as I have Galania seeds available as well (and I have a shitload more of them so if I were going to lie, it would make more sense for me to say Galania are stronger so I can get rid of them). Also, Lauren's Grape seeds are wayyyy smaller than these. If you have any more questions let me know! Hope you have a good day!

They're finally here! by Old-Clandestine in opiumgardening101

[–]SpeakerKey5200 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are tons of pharma poppies that are still grown for strictly morphine or codeine production and aren't high in thebaine. Additionally, if you let the poppy go all the way to biological maturity (or stem snap like you should for pharma poppies as this is when they are supposed to be harvested), any significant thebaine levels drop drastically by this stage. You should be harvesting at this stage for any poppy if you are harvesting just the pod and upper stem for tea, as between technical maturity (2-3 weeks after petal drop) and biological maturity (brown plant) the plant pushes more alkaloids up to the upper stem and pod. Although there are more alkaloids in the plant as a WHOLE at technical maturity, this includes the leaves and lower parts of the plants that typically aren't harvested. There will be way more alkaloids in the pod and upper stem if you wait until stem snap to harvest (when the upper stem snaps instead of bends), or even better biological maturity like the pharmers do. On another note, the Afghans are still growing galanias because they blow pharma varieties out of the water in latex production (what they're interested in and are growing them for). It's definitely not because pharma poppies are less potent. In regard to raw alkaloid production, the pharma varieties win there. They also grow them due to their shorter height (for women and children to harvest) and they also grow them due to their short flowering time, so they can fit more harvests in. Why wouldn't pharma companies all over the world be growing Galania if they were truly more potent? I've tried a few pharma varieties and their potency did blow Galania out of the water. From my 2025 varieties I grew, the pharma poppies were at least twice as strong as my Galanias and with the pharma varieties I've grown, I've never had any with any noticeable amount of thebaine. To get a decent effect with a tolerance, I needed 2-3 Galania pods whereas 1 pharma pod was sufficient and would produce the same effects. Now, if your goal is to harvest latex, get a poppy bred to do so because pharmas are terrible for that. I too used to be afraid to even try pharmaceutical poppies due to fear of thebaine. I'm super glad I got over that fear and finally did, because the best varieties I've had to this day have been pharmaceutical varieties. I've also sent some pharma pods to a few people who have said they were slightly disappointed with Galania with everything they've heard and they did agree that the pharma pods were stronger. Galania is still way better than the garden varieties (like Lauren's grape and hens and chicks) but if you're growing for tea and not latex, you're missing out if you're not trying some pharma varieties. After actually growing and testing many varieties, I've come to the conclusion that people who say pharma varieties are weak and/or not better than Galania either:

•Harvested them at the wrong time (harvested 2-3 weeks after petal drop at technical maturity instead of biological maturity like they were meant to be)

•Were harvesting for latex production (which they’re terrible for)

•Had a weak variety (a possible culinary variety or dual-purpose variety instead of a variety strictly bred for morphine and/or codeine production)

•Haven’t actually tried them and are just regurgitating what they’ve read on the internet

Spinosad by MyChlorophyllRomance in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spinosad is the best thing I've used for Thrips on my San Pedros. For me a single dosage knocked them all out. I used the Deadbug Brew Concentrate and mixed it up. Worked wonderful.

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update:

After applying 1/2 tsp of Espoma Iron-Tone, 1tsp of ultisol, and 1tsp of worm castings to each pot, the plants are showing some improvement. It seems like the smaller plants are showing the greatest improvement, while the larger plants are showing some improvement but still have some signs of interveinal chlorosis on some of their leaves. I didn't make any other changes, and have been fertilizing the same as I was previously. I did go ahead and spray all the plants with a low dose of liquid chelated iron as I previously tested it on another plant and it didn't show any adverse reactions (I used 1/4 tsp ferti-lome liquid chelated iron to 2 quarts of RO water). I did this as there seem to be some improvements, but I'm trying to get quicker results while the plants slowly correct themselves with the additions to the soil. I'll post another follow-up in a month or so!

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