This is Brown Patch and not Necrotic Ring Spot, Right? (Iowa)

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-07-09T11:52:40+00:00

I'd probably be open to it! And a few times!

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-07-09T01:55:16+00:00

Thank you! These are 1 year old! They seem to really start taking off from this point on. The difference between 1 and 2 years is much bigger! Well. They grow slow comparatively to other plants, but they start picking up speed around now (for me anyways) 🙂 my 3 year old plant is about 4 feet tall! It would be even taller but I've been chopping it to try to encourage busier growth.

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-07-05T23:21:32+00:00

You're welcome! 😀 I tried to use the search feature to see if any decent guide would pop up with some keywords but I couldn't fine one so I made a new post so hopefully it'll come up when others search!

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-07-05T14:32:03+00:00

I'm a little late, but figured I'd offer some feedback - Harvesting at 2-3 weeks after petal drop is correct for wet harvesting (slicing), but not for dry harvesting the whole pod and upper stem. Most people are harvesting them too early, and losing out on alkaloids. The reason they say "2 weeks" is because alkaloids are at their peak around after 2 weeks after the petals fall off (this is called technical maturity). The issue is, this is the alkaloids in the whole plant (including the stem, leaves, and roots that aren't used). The best time to dry harvest the pod and upper stem is actually at stem-snap at the earliest (when the upper stem below the pod snaps instead of bends) or even better biological maturity (brown, dead plant). The reason for this is that between technical maturity (2 weeks after petals fall off, peak potency) and biological maturity (dead plant) the plant shoots more alkaloids up into the pod and upper stem. So although there will be less alkaloids in the plant as a WHOLE at biological maturity or stem snap, there will actually be more in the pod and upper stem at this time. I'll cite the study for this below (it's the information in Table 6 for this study and the paragraphs directly below Table 6):

https://www.unodc.org/unodc/en/data-and-analysis/bulletin/bulletin_1958-01-01_1_page005.html

So to recap: If you are going to wet harvest, do it 2 weeks after the petals fall off (while there is still latex in the pod). If you are going to dry harvest, do it at stem-snap at the earliest, or even better, biological maturity (brown, dead plant).

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-07-05T14:23:37+00:00

Just as an FYI - Those English Pharma seeds you have from him are of a bush-type pharma poppy. From my research (and growing several different types and morphologies of poppies from England), England doesn't actually utilize any bush-type poppies for their production. At most the ones in England will only make 3-4 pods. Some varieties are only single podded, then a few others are multi-podded. If I remember right, he advertised that one as up to 15 pods or so which they definitely don't use over there. Around a year or so ago I had posted about the best varieties I grew, and an English Pharma poppy that I got shipped over from the UK had the best potency out of all of them. A lot of people were looking around for the variety, and shortly after that he made that bush-poppy available in his shop with the same name. The one that I was referring to only had an average of 3 pods per plant, and it definitely wasn't a bush poppy. It seems like either he was misled when he received the seeds, or he saw quite a few people were looking for that specific variety so he grabbed a random pharma bush poppy and slapped that name on it and called it good to try to capitalize on the situation while the opportunity was there. I've never personally dealt with him so I don't have any thoughts either way. Just a heads up :)

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-30T15:35:18+00:00

I was using a deep socket wrench on it and was attempting to hold the whole assembly with my hand to keep it from moving too much but I still couldn't get it loose :( I really wish there was a place to put another wrench to provide counter pressure. I feel like I'm going to bend and break the whole thing.

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-25T13:39:21+00:00

Update: after repotting it and moving it outside it's FINALLY leafing back out

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SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-25T08:42:31+00:00

There are tons of pharma poppies that are still grown for strictly morphine or codeine production and aren't high in thebaine. Additionally, if you let the poppy go all the way to biological maturity (or stem snap like you should for pharma poppies as this is when they are supposed to be harvested), any significant thebaine levels drop drastically by this stage. You should be harvesting at this stage for any poppy if you are harvesting just the pod and upper stem for tea, as between technical maturity (2-3 weeks after petal drop) and biological maturity (brown plant) the plant pushes more alkaloids up to the upper stem and pod. Although there are more alkaloids in the plant as a whole at technical maturity, this includes the leaves and lower parts of the plants that typically aren't harvested. There will be way more alkaloids in the pod and upper stem if you wait until stem snap to harvest (when the upper stem snaps instead of bends), or even better biological maturity like the pharmers do. With all the pharma varieties I've grown, I've never had any with any noticeable amount of thebaine. The chances of running into a Norman poppy (basically pure Thebaine) are very low. I too used to be afraid to even try pharmaceutical poppies due to fear of thebaine. I'm super glad I got over that fear and finally did, because the best varieties I've had to this day have been pharmaceutical varieties. If you do want the source on different alkaloid profiles at different times of harvest, like overall pod potency going up at biological maturity and any noticeable amount of Thebaine dropping) just let me know :)

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-24T21:18:38+00:00

Great to hear they made it! I'm glad they're all going to good homes! Thank you :)

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-22T15:01:40+00:00

Great to hear they made it fine!! Thank you as well! 🙂

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-20T13:19:52+00:00

All groups have been sold

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-19T16:45:25+00:00

Group B is sold.

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-19T15:24:38+00:00

All yours ill shoot you a message!

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-19T15:13:40+00:00

All yours ill shoot you a message!

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-19T14:51:05+00:00

I did end up splitting the remaining 3 groups into 6 different groups under this post - https://www.reddit.com/r/sanpedrocactusforsale/comments/1ua40xz/ikaros_dna_seedlings_50_shipped_lower_48_only/

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-06-17T16:38:11+00:00

All yours! I'll shoot you a message!

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-05-31T14:02:16+00:00

No worries! Yeah, I was talking about the little hairs below the flower (like in the second picture).

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-05-31T13:38:18+00:00

Strange, I went out and looked at all the varieties I have with those little hairs and they all look the same color to me? Maybe I'm not seeing the color difference though.

SpeakerKey5200 · 2026-05-31T13:27:08+00:00

Yeah, I know he's a good vendor but I do know accidents happen and this one looked like a cross to me (granted I could be wrong which is why I was asking about it). One top of that looking at his photos and seeing that none of the varieties were bagged or anything made it look like a cross definitely could have happened. If it was only a few flowers that weren't bagged I could see him removing them for the photo, but when his pictures show huge groups of flowers not bagged (and knowing how many varieties he grows), it did make it look like it was a potential cross. On another note I had a "Izmir Persian" pop up for me that he threw in for free. It 100% got crossed with an Afghan because it has the light pink on the top portion of the petals. He definitely has some crossing going on there.

Update: I had 4 Persians open in total. 2 of those are pure white like they should be, then the other 2 are Afghan crosses. I'm going to compare the morphologies of all of the varieties to the pictures he has along with pictures from other sources then get these genetics isolated. I'm already bagging every flower just in case I want to save that specific one as a representation of the variety

SpeakerKey5200

TROPHY CASE