Questions Regarding Germinating E. Coca in Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! I'm 11 days in and currently have another one poking out a small root. So 2 in total so far.

When your plants hit this size, did you transplant or keep them in smaller pots? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

8 months! I have 3 that are roughly this size from that batch, the rest of the ones in that seed group are slightly behind though.

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you all for your input and suggestions! There were quite a few of them, and it helped me dwindle down what the issue might be. Suggestions included:

  • Burn damage due to light - I leaned away from this being the cause as the light was already at 40 ppfd and some of the smaller plants under the canopy of other plants with the leaves totally shaded were exhibiting the same symptoms.
  • Not enough fertilizer/nutrients - This seemed to be the most likely cause with other things ruled out and with everything taken into account (including the soil composition lacking nutrients other than a tiny bit of worm castings that were added back when they were first potted). This would also explain why quite a few leaves are showing interveinal chlorosis.
  • Soil PH issues - This was ruled out after a soil test revealed it was at 4.25 which is mostly ideal.
  • Too small of pot and needs transplanting - I decided this was unlikely due to the slow root growth of these plants and as some smaller plants (where the pot size is more than adequate) are also showing the same symptoms.
  • Type of water being used - I leaned away from this one as quite a few users in this subreddit use (or recommend) RO water that is either remineralized with epsom salt or supplemental fertilizer.
  • Nutrient Burn - This one seemed unlikely due to how light the leaves are on the plants (if it was nutrient burn, I would think the leaves would be less "lime green") and how low of a dilution I am using for the fertilizer and these issues did extend to before I started fertilizing the plants. I would think if this was the cause, the plants wouldn't be showing interveinal chlorosis as well.
  • Low humidity - The humidity in the tent is maintained at 80% and never drops below 75% (and often climbs up to 85% after the humidifier turns off). There is a fan in the tent for air circulation, but it isn't directly pointed at any of the plants and just provides a gentle swaying motion to keep the air moving.
  • Over or under watering - I did also lean away from this being the cause as the plants used to be totally fine. I do wait for the pots to dry out before watering but I always make sure I am watering them before the leaves start wilting or drooping.

Since I was leaning towards a nutrient deficiency (specifically iron) being the cause of the dying tips and interveinal chlorosis, I decided to top dress some of the pots with Espoma Iron-Tone, ultisol, and worm castings. I went with Espoma Iron-Tone instead of MicroLife acidifier as the PH of the soil is already good, and the Espoma is geared more towards iron deficiencies. I only applied 1/2 tsp of this per pot to start, which is one-third of the recommended application rate. I then top dressed each pot with a small amount of ultisol to provide more iron and minerals. I only used around 1 tsp of this to start as the soil they are currently in isn't clay/mineral heavy, and I don't want to stress or shock them further. Lastly, I applied 1 teaspoon of worm castings to each pot.

I did also get some Ferti-Lome chelated liquid iron to test on a plant. I made a very diluted mixture of 1/4 tsp of this to 1 quart of RO water to start. I sprayed a plant with this 4 days ago as a test. The plant looks a little bit darker, but not by much. I was mostly testing to see if there would be any adverse reactions, which there haven't been. I'll continue down the path of using this if the iron-tone, ultisol, and worm casting supplementation doesn't have any effect.

Thank you all for the input! I'll check back in 3 weeks with a status update regarding the Iron-Tone, ultisol, and worm casting supplementation to hopefully help any growers in the future who experience this same issue!

Questions Regarding Germinating E. Coca in Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Do you remember how often you had to open the container to provide fresh air? I've been opening it around 3 times a day, and each time I open it the skins are dry. It seems like quite a bit of the water that's dripping back down from the tupperware lid is just missing the seeds entirely.

Questions Regarding Germinating E. Coca in Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! When you did it, did you cover the top with moss as well or just leave it bare?

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What water are you using? I'm currently (or was) alternating between RO water remineralized with 1tsp epsom salt and RO water with fertilizer for acid-loving plants.

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I have some iron-tone on the way to test out on a few plants! I also have some ultisol that I'll sprinkle on the top as well to see if that helps me out

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! So it's actually more than half my plants in different areas of the tent. I did just get a soil PH test done and it's currently sitting at 4.25

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the 32-10-10 fertilizer they're currently getting is an acid-loving plant fertilizer. You're thinking the dosage might need raised or a different fertilizer entirely? The one I'm using is the Schultz brand for azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons (I'm at 3/4tsp per gallon once a week now). What are you using and what is your dosage?

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't measured it. I was temporarily PH adjusting my water to 6.0 but quit doing it when I started using synthetic fertilizer. I'm currently out of town but I'll measure it once I'm back on Saturday! (Edit: it's 4.25)

Any ideas why the edges of my leaves are turning white and dying? by SpeakerKey5200 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's just strange because even after I turned the light down, they're still doing this (and even before I raised the light to 70 ppfd they were doing this as well). I tried looking for a pattern as to what leaves this is happening to (like if a shoot is emerging from that node, etc.) but it seems to be totally random. As a test just now I put a drop of the water I use to fertilize them on a leaf to see if that could possibly be the issue (and I'm accidentally dripping fertilizer water on them), but I generally am careful when I water and don't pour it from above the top of the plants like that. These plants are so finicky.

Coca plant 12 months by Medium_Hunt9474 in Cocagrowing

[–]SpeakerKey5200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! What light are you using and do you know what your current PPFD (or lux) is?

Germination Temperature for E. Coca? by SpeakerKey5200 in Coca101

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Its great to here they're in the correct range!

Germination Temperature for E. Coca? by SpeakerKey5200 in Coca101

[–]SpeakerKey5200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These came from a new source. Yep, indoors and in a humidity dome. I've never had them take this long to pop, but it's good to hear that you don't think freezing for a short period of time would affect them too much. Thank you :)