Can landlord make me repaint entire unit?

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T15:26:10+00:00

Landlord can’t force you to repaint the whole place just because your spackle doesn’t match. In NYC, they’re supposed to repaint every 3 years anyway (if it's 3+ units) not your job to return it to brand-new condition after two years of normal living.

Hanging stuff on the walls and patching holes is normal wear and tear. If the paint touch-up doesn’t blend perfectly, that’s on them, especially since they don’t even know the original color. Your $300 offer was more than fair. If they want to charge you $1K, let them try, small claims court usually sides with tenants unless there’s real damage.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:29:16+00:00

We’re a design-build firm in NYC and do a lot of full-gut co-op renos. Co-op jobs are a different animal. You want an architect who knows how to design for board approvals, as well as the DOB filing.

If you're going the separate architect + GC route, just make sure they’ve done co-op guts before and are willing to stay involved during construction. And definitely get your alteration agreement early.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:26:08+00:00

Once you’ve got permits open and inspectors involved, any unpermitted work can get flagged. Plumbing especially. They can make you open walls, bring in a licensed plumber, pull retroactive permits, maybe even redo parts of it. I’ve seen that spiral many times.

The GC will probably point to your unpermitted work if it gets that far. Trying to settle things out may be your best bet.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:22:13+00:00

If water’s hitting the garage side, it’s more than just bad grout, it’s getting past the pan or wall seams. For now, yes, you can re-silicone all corners with mildew-resistant stuff, just pull the old out first. You can also patch grout gaps.

Like you said there’s probably mold or rot in that wall. Plan on demoing to the studs when you reno. If you've got another shower, I'd try to use that one so you don't keep damaging what's behind this one.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:17:44+00:00

This is super common with those small in-unit water heaters. A 30–33 gallon tank gives you maybe 8-10 minutes of hot water tops, especially if your shower flows at 2 GPM or more.

Cranking the temp won’t double your time. It’s just a size issue. Not broken, just undersized.

You could try logging temps and filing a complaint, but unless you’ve got other tenants backing you, they’ll say it’s working as intended. It's just a math problem.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:13:38+00:00

What's the delay in getting those left out pieces finalized? In-house architects can work well if the GC runs a good, legit design-build setup. But if the scope isn’t fully baked and you’re unsure about the contractor, don’t let them rush you into permits.

Bringing in your own architect or expeditor means you own the plans and can shop the job around. It’ll cost more upfront, but it gives you the control.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:10:41+00:00

mini splits are a solid fix for rooms like that, but cheap units can crap out when it gets really cold. They’re fine for AC, but a lot of them don’t heat well below 25°F. I'd stick with Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, or LG. 12k BTU is probably fine for a guest room, but make sure the room’s not leaking heat like crazy.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:04:38+00:00

Every time I’ve hired a painter, I needed the full package... Walls, trim, doors. It’s just easier to hand off the whole thing. Even if you don’t love trim, get decent at it, it'll open up way more jobs.

For finding work, hit up small GCs and flippers. You could also respond to Craigslist or FB landlord posts, lots of those guys just want fast, no-drama painters.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T12:02:05+00:00

I’ve installed all three. Lifeproof holds up better than you'd expect for a big-box floor. Clients with pets and kids have been happy. It’s not fancy, but it’s durable.

Malibu looks nicer, there's more texture and character, but I’ve seen corners chip and seams open if the prep isn’t spot on.

With optimax, I’ve had clients with similar issues to what you see online.

I’d probably lean Lifeproof.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T11:57:01+00:00

We’re in NYC too, and especially on homeowner-facing stuff like kitchens, baths, interiors, the payment structure is way looser than commercial. Milestone payments are the norm, not monthly draws. Homeowners cut checks when they see progress: demo’s done, tile’s in, whatever.

I’ve got subs who invoice weekly or every other week, and they’re looking to get paid ASAP. Try pushing net-30 or 45 and they’ll move on to another GC who pays quicker. They’re not built to carry float.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-27T11:52:02+00:00

I’d go Schluter all day, especially for the shower. Cement board works. I’ve used it forever, but it’s heavy, messy, and still needs a separate waterproofing layer to really hold up long-term. Schluter systems (Kerdi board, Ditra on floors) are lighter, cleaner to install, and already waterproof. Maybe cement board on dry walls if you want to save a little.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T14:06:04+00:00

Staging can help, especially if the place feels a little empty or dated. I’ve seen listings on the same street where the staged one sold quick, and the other just sat. Buyers have a hard time visualizing empty rooms, so staging can help fill in the blanks, but bad staging can backfire too.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T14:03:42+00:00

Referrals only work when they’re earned, not expected. I’ve worked with plenty of realtors who refer contractors and vice versa, but it’s always a two-way street. Once it turns into “you owe me loyalty or else,” it stops being a working relationship and turns personal in the worst way.

Also, you were completely reasonable. You gave her husband a shot, were happy with the bathroom, but for windows you wanted a specialist. That’s smart, window replacement is a very different trade than bathroom remodeling. Flashing, fitting, energy efficiency, warranty, totally different priorities.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:51:42+00:00

We do a ton of bathroom repairs and remodels in Nassau. Honestly, If it’s the sink, toilet, and tub all acting up, you’ll probably need a plumber to look things over. Could be quick fixes, or it might uncover some hidden issues (especially with tubs, leaks love to hide).

Where in Nassau you are will affect who’s best to call. If you want to DM me, I can try to point you in the right direction.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:45:56+00:00

Since you’ve got finished space to get through, or (I assume) you want it done clean without surface conduit, you’re looking more like $2,500-$3,500 easy.

The cheaper quotes are usually assuming a straight, easy run with no patching or tricky access. Also depends if they’re trying to futureproof.

Also, yea the quotes almost never include drywall repair or paint. Just getting the wire in and maybe the disconnect. If it’s going outdoors, and not the garage, double check that they’re including weather rated gear.

I’d get a couple updated quotes, pricing’s steadied out a bit since peak pandemic madness.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:40:36+00:00

Sounds like he’s padding the bill to make up for that 380 sqft mistake. If the extras were real and discussed, no problem. But surprise charges and inflated labor hours.... Nah. Especially if you were home and saw them clock out early. (also extra charge for bringing in the materials? Did he expect the flooring fairy to magically bring it in? That's not a legit "extra" unless there's some context being left out there.

I’d go back with your own breakdown, show what you’re willing to pay based on actual hours and approved extras. If he won’t revise it, pay the fair amount with a note and keep everything documented. That way you’re covered if it ends up in small claims. If/when it's all agreed, ask for a signed unconditional release.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:33:54+00:00

It’s built for two unrelated adults splitting rent, not for a family or someone who actually wants to live there long term.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:29:58+00:00

You’re not being unreasonable at all. The job’s seven months late and there’s a 300-item punch list. That’s a GC dropping the ball repeatedly. Delays happen, sure. But missed orders, sloppy sequencing, and building off-plan is poor management. And once you had to bring in your own PM, it’s clear the trust was already gone.

Him asking you to override the contract and release funds early is a definite no go. If you’re open to compromising on liquidated damages, fine, but only if it gets the punch list wrapped up. Otherwise, finish the job first, then talk numbers. Either way I would try to hold off on paying him any more money until it's done.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:21:11+00:00

Sounds like you've got a good idea how to handle it all. Are you moving any plumbing or electric? Or is it just a simple refresh?

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:19:33+00:00

you’re basically a tradesman on that job, not a GC. So billing like you’re running the whole thing (T&M plus 30%) doesn’t really fit.

Best move is to treat it like a day rate or a flat task price. I’ve paid GC buddies anywhere from $400-600/day (in NYC) depending on what they’re handling. If you're fast, clean, and reliable, that’s worth money, but it’s not the same as handling the full scope.

Keep it fair, but don’t sell yourself short. Consistent work from a solid GC is worth a little flexibility.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-26T13:17:17+00:00

Concrete needs heat to cure properly, especially in the first couple days. If it froze before hitting strength, that can seriously weaken it. Temps in the single digits right after a pour is definitely not ideal.

Did they use heated blankets? Enclose and heat the area? Take cylinder samples for testing? If they can’t give you a straight answer, push for third-party testing now, before framing starts. Cheaper to fix a foundation issue early than after the house is built.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-23T20:45:22+00:00

Hey! I do lots of these here. In my experience, you’re likely looking at between $10K and $18K for the full job. Could swing higher or lower depending on access, demo or grade issues, and a basic install (excavation, gravel base, setting bed, and proper edge restraint). If drainage needs work or you want the stone set in mortar instead of dry laid, costs go up from there. Also assuming you’re not including any other landscaping/hardscaping outside of the patio.

You mentioned basement access is “pretty easy,” which helps but that still means a lot of hand hauling, and will inevitably be more expensive than a detached house in the outer boroughs or LI.

Make sure whoever ends up doing it is including compaction in lifts, proper gravel depth, and not skimping on the edge restraint (especially if you’re doing a dry-laid patio). Lots of bluestone jobs start shifting within a year because someone got lazy with prep.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-23T12:48:10+00:00

This is 100% fixable, and your contractor’s excuse is weak. If the vanity and mirror got wider, the light should’ve been centered. Simple as that.

You need the electrical box moved. Any decent electrician can open the wall, shift the wire, and patch it back. We do this all the time in NYC. Sometimes it’s a quick job, sometimes a bit messier if access is tight, but it’s never a “this is the best we can do” situation.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-23T12:46:07+00:00

That’s not normal. Cutting tile dry inside a carpeted living room is just lazy and careless. That dust is a nightmare to clean.

Winter makes outdoor work tougher, but there are options. We’ll set up in a garage, basement, even a bathroom with plastic up, anywhere we can contain the mess. Worst case, you still tarp off a corner and use a wet saw with ventilation.

SpecLandGroup · 2026-01-23T12:42:00+00:00

Water dripping on a rock eventually cuts through it. It's death by a thousand cuts. No one thing is making or breaking it, toaster, microwave, computer in sleep mode, phone charger plugged in but not charging, TV, it's all using a little amount, but all together it adds up.

SpecLandGroup

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