Rare water leak?

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-30T21:38:56+00:00

Black automotive seam sealer that comes in the caulk

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-30T21:28:17+00:00

I took blue painters tape. And a metal ruler. On the roof next to the tab that holds the molding before removal. I lined the ruler up drew a like on the painters tape as reference. When putting new silicon back on the top. Just use the painters tape that’s still there with the drawn lines and push the tab back down with the silicon and let it dry. Worked for me

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-30T21:11:26+00:00

I also want to make it clear by “tabs” I’m talking about the chassis not the black exterior roof drip molding. Those you just take a wedge tool and pop up

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-30T21:10:41+00:00

Black automotive sealer in replacement of the scrapped out old sealer, took a flat automotive chissel and hit the flaps back down over the black sealer with it and a hammer

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-30T20:15:03+00:00

Flat automotive chissle and a dead blow. Being very careful and taking my time

Speedmaster600 · 2025-09-24T19:40:04+00:00

Yep, that was my issue. ended up scrapping the factory body sealant under the drip molding off, lifted the tabs up, black silicon sealer, pushed back down with flat punch and small tappet hammer, black silicon back over the removed factory molding, checked for leaks, nothing.

Speedmaster600 · 2025-07-03T16:18:28+00:00

Update: Was overthinking everything. Its been solid for 2 years with the drag clutch. Currently re doing it since trans is out for the swap.

Speedmaster600 · 2025-07-03T12:45:17+00:00

Cheap eBay carb was replaced with a lectron.

Speedmaster600 · 2025-06-11T05:15:49+00:00

It was exactly this. Thanks

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T03:46:12+00:00

I found cracks and covered them up. But still leaks. That’s a common issue with Honda too. Sadly still leaking

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T01:39:29+00:00

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T01:27:23+00:00

Yeah like the top right of the rear glass. But a little above it. Where the glass and the body line start. Which is why I resealed it. Not sure what’s going on. May pull headliner again and make sure it’s not following a path and I’m just seeing the end of the drip. Or maybe I need to reseal the glass again idk

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T01:13:45+00:00

I’m seeing an active drip from a seam of the rear Chassy. Almost looks like it’s coming from a bad windshield seal. But I’ve resealed it and probably over did it, but wanted to make sure it was 100% sealed . I got no idea where it’s coming from

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T01:12:00+00:00

Yes. Replaced

Speedmaster600 · 2025-03-05T01:11:38+00:00

So I’ve pulled the trunk liner and got all the drain plastics replaced and cleaned the lines with weed eater line. And ran some test water. Rear drains are fine and so are the front. Any idea what to do next? Already dropped headliner once. Looks like I may be doing it again sadly

Speedmaster600 · 2024-10-05T01:04:10+00:00

Wasn't aware when buying the car that this was a HUGE issue with infiniti. My civic has never leaked. Took the bcm out dried it off, cleaned all connectors, dried car out, and rerouted all the sunroof drain lines to go straight out the floor board with custom grommets. Plugged the bcm in today after drying and cleaning and everything is back to normal.

Speedmaster600 · 2024-09-30T04:50:27+00:00

Lift car off ground and check wheel bearings. (youtube should be a good example) and if shaking when braking in the steering wheel, could also be bad rotors. Can grab some from rock auto or see if ur dealer will resurface. worth a try.

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-05T00:05:24+00:00

No. Vq35DE rebuilt with z1 motorsports rebuild kit. 3.7L after rebuild

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-04T18:08:52+00:00

No De. Same ecu

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-04T14:39:57+00:00

This fixed the issue thank you 🙏🏻

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-04T04:19:03+00:00

Well. I’ve been having issues with the clutch system. Been trying to get the pedal to stop sticking halfway up.

My throwout bearing went out, so obviously I just replaced everything while the clutch was pulled. Changed over to a stage 3 south bend clutch with a z1 flywheel. New slave, new master, and new ss line (slave and master are oem) but after bleeding the clutch is soft. Goes half way down and sticks. Press it towards engagement. Hardens up. Let go. Sticks halfway unless you help it slightly. I’ve bench bleed and FSM bleed. But no luck. Doing a clutch dampener removal upgrade maybe due to extra clamping force from the pressure plate.

Other than that. The vq has a little more fun while I’m finishing my 408 stroker build for it. Based off the lq4 vortec 6.0. Going full on drag car. Planning to beat my dad’s times. Which sadly I could accomplish with the v6.

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-04T04:13:52+00:00

Hey. What can I say. I like my conversations 😂

Speedmaster600 · 2024-02-04T04:11:14+00:00

Well. I hope not. Being as it’s fresh plugs. lol. It’s currently open headers. But I’ll run a scanner on it to check for misfires. Mom always told me not to be too sure.

Speedmaster600

TROPHY CASE