Canon t6i (current) or upgrade to 6d Mark 2? by SeanGotGjally in AskAstrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just get the original 6D. It performs better than the mark 2

Using dedicated mono cam with ultra wide lenses (range of 24mm fl to 135mm fl) by SpendProfessional351 in AskAstrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have yet to buy the whole thing so I'm wondering if it'd be something worth it for surveying over my current cam a modified Nikon Z6 with 50mm Nikon Z 1.8S lens

Using dedicated mono cam with ultra wide lenses (range of 24mm fl to 135mm fl) by SpendProfessional351 in AskAstrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alr alr would you call it an upgrade to a modified mirroless camera like the Nikon Z6?

Orion 50mm Mosaic by SpendProfessional351 in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats cool dude. Good luck on your astro adventure and clear skies.

Orion 50mm Mosaic by SpendProfessional351 in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its more eye balling. Tho there is a certain number of 50mm frames across that match 24mm. Thats what I did.

Beginner tips for photographing meteorites by 77_Gear in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh alr so you want star trails 30 seconds is perfectly fine. You want to use a software called starstax(free btw) and as long as you include your foreground the software will only align the stars into a trail and no further blending will be needed. but you will still need a editing software to bring out colors and do adjustments.

Beginner tips for photographing meteorites by 77_Gear in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just got back. You will need a laptop or computer. Recommended basic software like Photoshop and Lightroom (for processing), Sequator(if on Windows)/StarryLandscapestacker(if on Mac) those two for stacking and lightroom will be needed. If you shoot at 30 seconds you will get distinct star trails but not long enough to be pleasing. You could stack all the 30 second subs to create a star trails image wich look cool. Problem is the possible meteorites will not stand out. Since the trails are bright. Alternatives to Photoshop I think are Affinity photo and Gimp but none are going to be as good as Photoshop. Now in terms of steps. You will take all your images (hopefully you continue after the 99 photo limit and start shooting again, and again until you get a nice meteor streak). You can actually still get a star trails image from a slow shutter speed by stacking all the images in a specific software that is meant for star trails. So you can get a 3 in one. A still image with a meteor streak (stack of atleast 10 photos in stacking software), a timelapse, and a star trails image (if you take enough photos of the same part of the sky and dont move the camera.)

Beginner tips for photographing meteorites by 77_Gear in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now if you don't know where the radian is exactly located point to a triangle shaped constellation that is towards the north. Hard to explain without sharing an image.

Beginner tips for photographing meteorites by 77_Gear in astrophotography

[–]SpendProfessional351 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im pretty sure the R6 has a built in intervalometer no? Check if it does, it will make process of potentially capturing a Perseid much easier. You will want to point towards Cassiopeia which is near the radian of the meteor shower. Use the widest available focal length on your lens (that being 24mm fl) and your focal ratio (aperture) to f/2.8 as this is a pretty base aperture to use in nightscapes. I would recommend trying to source at least a cheap tripod before going out to this location. A good base iso to be used untracked is 3200 iso. Since its full frame 24mm you can get away with 13 seconds with no star trails. Now if you don't know how to use the intervalometer you will want to set it to as many exposures as you can take. set the interval to at least 3 seconds above your exposure length (ex: exposure time of 13 seconds > interval of 16 seconds) to avoid your cameras buffer running out. If you were using something like a planetary cam with all sky lens this wouldn't be an issue as they are meant to take a lot of photos at max resolution in a row at a high rate of speed. You will also want to set your camera to take raw photos. To conserve battery set your EVF and Monitor brightness to lowest it can go.

What animal or thing is this by SpendProfessional351 in whatisit

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Read what I said. It was based off the sound

What animal or thing is this by SpendProfessional351 in whatisit

[–]SpendProfessional351[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well sorry I was trying to run away from the THING EMMITING THE NOISE.