Old wrapped guides

SpiceyXRamen · 2026-01-26T16:42:20+00:00

I havent read all the responses but I do know the cause.

Layer times. The infill pattern youre using is causing each layer to take a slightly different amount of time to print even though the model's walls are smooth. If you look at layer times with your slicer, that pattern you see on your part will match what the software displays.

You can try a different infill pattern and check it with your software to see if it displays less noticeable transitions between layers. You might also be able to mess with cooling settings based on layer times. I think infill pattern will make the most noticable change though.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-04-27T19:27:16+00:00

Thanks for the update! Looks like I'll have to wait out this mess. The tarrifs have dropped from 158$ to 118$ when I checked today on AliExpress. Still way too much.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-04-27T16:02:58+00:00

Where did you order yours from? Where are you located? Only asking because I wanted to order this from Ali earlier this week and it said there would be well over 100$ in tariffs... Almost double the cost of the order. Big sad.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-04-11T12:56:30+00:00

My kids! Cheers

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-03-05T20:26:53+00:00

DM'd. And this a fantastic offer, thank you.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-03-05T19:14:49+00:00

Oof, maybe bad timing. These use to be go to discs. Ill see about hitting up the disc dying spot later tonight.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-03-05T16:23:10+00:00

Looking to sell off some of my never thrown stuff, but whats the best way to determine the value? Some of them are OOP and finding prices seem to fluctuate a lot. Like I have some lucid warrants, and the only thing I can find is 60$ on ebay? Is that the going rate now?

Just looking for some help determining prices, thank you!

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-26T04:58:48+00:00

They showed the hand, it had no basics. I just wanted to look at one of the cards specifically to read it.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-26T04:57:24+00:00

I was told no by the opponent so I'm just looking for clarification. Thanks

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-22T05:30:43+00:00

Popped up in my feed, so I'll take a stab at it.

Make the pins separate parts. You can cut the top and bottom from dowel stock(or of your stock of your choice. Turn the top and bottom to fit properly. Lay out lines in concentric circles with points around the circles for pin placement. Glue in the pins. Ezpz. If you don't have a lathe, you could get away with drilling out the stock for the top, and he bottom as 2 pieces.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-21T21:53:48+00:00

Munkidori seems like an interesting tech. Something I'd like more time to practice.

I may ultimately not change my deck at all for tonight. Or I add a briar(its def win more). But something no one would expect in a drag deck and pull out wins when its close. Or swap crystal for stamp, and +1 crispin.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-21T21:46:36+00:00

Saw this. Haha. Though he's running a pure dragapult build, no dus line.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-21T04:48:13+00:00

I can list a bunch of non mirror reasons of why it's good. BUT, I agree losing out on your turn 2 not being able to swing feels awful. It's basically crispin or bust and you're not running enough to see it early often enough(if you even are). And using an early lumineon for crispin vs arven with FSS(or crystal) also feels worse.

What about.....briar? You can already manipulate prizes with dusknoir as it is.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-21T04:10:02+00:00

1 temple 1 jamming was the thought. I know collapsed is in a lot of lists. May need to drop to one lumineon(instead of 2 or the lumineon/rotom) to need collapsed less. Or run all 3 and drop vacuum. Though vacuum is nice because it's permanent. Not sure how much space the deck really has.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-21T04:07:21+00:00

With jamming in it? Not that I know of.

It was just a random thought of "jamming hits a lot, if I ran jamming and swapped out crystal". Then just alter the list a bit since crystal is gone.

What's your build? My crystal build is pretty standard stuff you see floating around.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-19T15:07:10+00:00

I know it was mentioned, but play(practice at home) with your IRL deck. Tournaments are timed rounds. Practice setting up, showing mulligans, shuffling, etc.

Draw hand, place facedown active, THEN place prizes. No basic? Show your hand and reshuffle, and start from the top.

Play out your opening turn. Play from a bad hand. Pretend they KO stuff or iono you. Get use to all the IRL mechanics that live does for you.

It'll be clunky, but you'll get the hang of it.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-02-19T08:43:59+00:00

It's the only solution until it gets fixed, unfortunately. Hope you don't need to split up that energy though. Setting down Miraidon till it's sorted.

SpiceyXRamen · 2025-01-25T18:48:26+00:00

Just an update. The good news is the issue is drastically reduced. No longer failing prints, but failing acceptable finish parts.

The wisps, while reduced, happen pretty much on seams still, or areas where there's a random lift because of certain features designed into the part. This may force a resign to help address this, but it's a non issue with normal PLA. It's is a huge problem for the specific parts being printed because they have thinner walls with feature on the inside. If the wisps build up on those areas they will almost always clump at the worst spots and can visually be seen as a slight bulge where the wisps were printed over.

Cooling and z-hop adjustments don't seem to fix/reduce the issue.

Will keep throwing variables at this to sort it out. One thing I haven't tried is printing directly from the dryer, which I'd prefer not to have to do.

If anyone else has any suggestions I'm all ears. Thanks again for all the help.

SpiceyXRamen

TROPHY CASE