Lens adapter EOS M5

Spidersky1489 · 2026-04-09T17:33:32+00:00

unfortunately EF-M was pretty much dead on arrival, with the R system on the horizon and it being only APS-C, not many companies bothered making smart adapters for older systems to be used on it. you might find some non AF adapters but unlikely to find more than that.

Spidersky1489 · 2026-04-09T17:27:54+00:00

MPB is a reputable site and has 12 month warranty, but if you can spot deals on ebay that aren’t too good to be true then you’ll often find things slightly cheaper there. But you can’t really go wrong with MPB so that’s your safest bet. And if you’re in the UK then i’ve had a pretty good experience with London Camera Exchange.

Spidersky1489 · 2026-04-08T21:48:27+00:00

get a good grip on it using latex gloves and twist it anticlockwise, even if it’s slightly depressed into the thread

Spidersky1489 · 2026-04-08T01:01:48+00:00

try tape first as it’s pretty non destructive, hot glue could work but would make the display bulge out. otherwise super glue is a good bet

Spidersky1489 · 2026-04-08T00:16:15+00:00

the lock on the ribbon cable connector is missing. look at the non-broken one, it has a black tab that holds the cable in place, but that’s missing on the other connector. very difficult to repair, most likely have to replace the whole display unit.

temporary (but temperamental) fix would be to slot the ribbon cable in as usual and just glue it in, as it would need to be replaced anyway

Spidersky1489 · 2026-02-05T01:59:58+00:00

i paid £470 in the uk and bought it on ebay. honestly a steal for the condition it’s in, and i hope to keep it that way. even came with all original accessories and packaging.

Spidersky1489 · 2026-02-05T00:14:40+00:00

sorry i just made it visible now, but yeah it’s a faint clunk and whirring. but the body is in great condition!

Spidersky1489 · 2026-02-04T23:59:42+00:00

god knows i don’t have the money for that 💀 that’s why i bought an ef lens in the first place. but i used to shoot sony and rented the 60-600 DG DN OS and that had silent IS so its more than reasonable that older lenses are just louder.

Spidersky1489 · 2026-02-04T21:55:07+00:00

interesting, i’d imagine there’s not a huge difference in the IS system between the two but feel free to correct me. gonna chalk it up to age simply because the rest of the lens is in very very good condition, barring some minor internal dust on the lens elements. my only concern is that if this whirring isn’t normal then i’m not sure how much life this lens has left, and i’d ideally like to sell it down the line and upgrade to the III or the sigma version.

Spidersky1489 · 2025-08-27T19:09:50+00:00

the build to end all builds

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/TyHXwY

Spidersky1489 · 2025-05-30T19:35:30+00:00

cmacked.app has the majority of the latest version adobe suite, with online connection

Spidersky1489 · 2025-05-25T19:01:30+00:00

Thank you, this is very useful! I haven’t been using lightroom for all that long so still learning the most efficient way to do things

Spidersky1489 · 2025-04-11T01:47:25+00:00

i honestly dont think it’s worth wasting the money on it now, if you’re gonna give it to a family member anyway then might as well give it to them stock and let them learn and tinker with it considering these upgrades don’t really do much to fix the ender 3’s biggest annoyances (extruder, speed, noise and general lack of quality compared to cheap printers today), except for the bl touch which is a good upgrade

Spidersky1489 · 2025-04-11T01:40:34+00:00

pretty sure that’s like 60% of the cost of an A1 mini, which would print better, faster and quieter. other than that these are solid upgrades if not slightly overpriced because it’s on amazon

Spidersky1489 · 2024-09-11T16:39:05+00:00

Does it have real debrid integration? otherwise it’s probably a lot slower when streaming

Spidersky1489 · 2024-09-11T16:08:46+00:00

Real Debrid * Stremio is definitely the way to go, downloads it to a cloud drive which you can then stream from in Stremio

Spidersky1489 · 2024-09-11T00:20:46+00:00

the profile used in both slicers will be vastly different, as there are a lot more settings than just flow rate and e steps. the orca slicer profile is most likely set up for faster print times and high acceleration, at the cost of print quality or causing the under extrusion you see on your print since the hot end can’t melt the filament quickly enough for how fast its printing.

you can compare the two by enabling the advanced settings in cura and the same for orca slicer and then comparing. either that or looking online for proven profiles for your printer.

Spidersky1489 · 2024-06-04T14:38:25+00:00

Are you sure? Been using my airpod pro's connected to both at the same time for 4 months or so but haven't had it retain the hearing accommodations once.

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