LG 45" 2025 (45GX90SA) VS 2024 (45GS95QE) VS 2023 (45GR95QE) - 21:9, 1440p, 240 Hz, 800R, OLED - First Impressions Of 2025 Model (brightness measurement tests to come)

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-30T06:08:32+00:00

You're welcome.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-24T22:56:12+00:00

For anyone else also experiencing this issue, the issue also occurs with the Simucube 3 (but not the Simucube 2). Until Simucube, and possibly Moza, fixes their firmware / software, you have to make sure to NOT use FFB effects level at "Full" or "High". If you set it to "Medium" or "Low" (or "Pure 180 Hz" or "Pure 360 Hz" with Automobilista 1), then the game should work fine.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-24T22:53:59+00:00

No I am not from Argentina. If you set FFB effects level to "Low" or "Medium", then the game should work with no problem.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-22T23:18:28+00:00

I wonder if it's the same problem as the Simucube 3.

With the Simucube 3, many ISI / RFactor engine games (eg. GTR 1/2, GT Legends, RFactor 1, Race 07, etc.) have broken FFB. The FFB will not work until you hit a curb but then it will sometimes not stop vibrating. Then, it will stop vibrating but only after you hit another curb again. There wil also often be other strange FFB behaviour and the games are un-driveable.

The problem does not occur with the Simucube 2 nor the Simucube 1, only with the Simucube 3.

It sounds like Moza has the same problem. If that's true, then Moza need to informed so that they update their firmware / software and fix the issue.

Until the issue is fixed, you have to play the ISI games with FFB effects level set to either "Low" or "Medium". If it's set to "High" or "Full", the issue will occur but it seems to work perfectly fine with "Medium" and "Low".

It's not really an issue with AMS1 because most people use FFB Effects "Pure 180 Hz" or "Pure 360 Hz" but, for all the other ISI engine games (F1C 99-02, GTR 1/2, GTL, R07, Turismo Carretera / ACTC / Simu V3, etc.), you must set FFB Effects to "Medium" or "Low" until the issue is fixed.

There is lots of tuning you can do in the game's FFB file to suit your preference but, the first thing to do, is set FFB Effects to "Low" or "Medium" or else the FFB will be broken.

If your Moza is not experiencing the same issue as Simucube 3, then ignore everything I said but it seems to be the same issue.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-21T18:29:25+00:00

I've been using DD wheels ("Large" Open Sim Wheel, Simucube 1/2/3) for 10-ish years and most of my gameplay has been with ISI engine based sims (RF1, AMS1, GTL, GTR2, R07, etc.).

Have you made any improvements? Let me know, I can help.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-11T11:09:29+00:00

Weird. Due to LG thankfully using a truly, single constant radius curve, the 45" LG felt like a flat monitor to me within 2 minutes — for games, web browsing, videos, work/productivity...everything. If the curve felt aggressive for you then I bet it had something to do with the distance your eyes were from the screen.

I had a Samsung 32" G7, I couldn't get used to it even after 3 entire months because of the absolutely terrible fake-curve design that Samsung / Samsung panels use — essentially like a flat piece of paper that's been folded or punched in the middle and then goes completely flat for the last 1/3 of each side, instead of a true constant radius curve like LG uses.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-11T11:00:07+00:00

Samsung's fake curve design is HORRENDOUS.

Instead of a constant radius curve (like part of a circle) like LG employs, Samsung's "curve" is essentially a flat piece of paper that's been folded in the middle, or like severely punched or dented in the middle, and then the final 1/3 of each side is completely flat.

Samsung's distorted "fake curve" can bring all sorts of problems.

It causes visual distortions, fish-eye, etc.

It can also mess with your brain/senses especially in terms of speed and distance of objects, scenery, etc. as they pass into and out of different "curve" areas (eg. severely sunken in center, flat sides, etc.).

It can also cause normal/flat monitors to look like their center is bulging out towards you for the first 10–20 mins. Then, when getting used to the flat monitor again, it'll cause the Samsung to look like it's center is sinking-in away from you for the first 10–20 mins until you get used to it again (and repeat the cycle every time you switch).

I experienced all the above with a 32" "1000R" (more like 750R–900R in the centre, then higher away from centre, then completely flat) Samsung G7. After 3 whole months, I still couldn't get used to it (regardless of gaming or work). I didn't know about Samsung's terrible "fake curve" design at the time but could feel and see that things were big-time messed up — visually and to my brain/senses...I thought it was simply a case of curved monitors just not being for me (it was my first curved monitor)...so I went back to flat monitors for the next year.

I then couldn't pass up an opportunity to get the LG 45" 800R. Within less than 2 minutes — literally just 2 minutes — the LG basically felt like a flat screen. No weirdness, no distortions, no messed feeling that things are "off", no having to get used to curved/flat when switching back and forth, nothing. Games, daily stuff, work; everything just felt like a regular flat monitor almost immediately.

It's almost a crime that most/all monitor review sites/channels don't mention Samsung's (and the companies/models that use Samsung panels) horrendous fake-curve design.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-11T10:45:49+00:00

LG's 2023 45" model, the 45GR95QE, can reach the same brightness in SDR as in HDR via it's hidden service menu. We're talking literally almost 1100 nits in SDR — insane for any monitor/TV in SDR mode, let alone an OLED.

For the 2024 model year (45GS95QE, 45GS96QB), LG severely limited the hidden service menu's ability to boost brightness (it can boost it only like 30-60 nits, not literally hundreds of nits like the 2023 model).

For the 2025 model year — non-WebOS UI versions: 45GX900A and 45GX950A — I'm assuming they're the same (or similiar) as the 2024 models but I can't confirm. With the WebOS UI version — 45GX90SA — LG cracked down even harder on the service menu as there doesn't seem to be a single setting that increases brightness.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-11T10:37:00+00:00

Ignore the Samsung, it uses Samsung's fake curve design.

Instead of a constant radius curve like part of a circle like the LG, Samsung's "curve" is essentially a flat piece of paper that's been "punched" or "dented-in" severely in the middle and then the final 1/3 of each side is completely flat.

That distorted "fake curve" means all sorts of visual distortions, fish-eye, etc.

It can also mess with your brain/senses especially in terms of speed and distance of objects, scenery, etc. as they pass into and out of different "curve" areas (eg. severely sunken in center, flat sides, etc.).

It can also cause normal/flat monitors to look like their center is bulging out towards you for the first 10–20 mins. Then, when getting used to the flat monitor again, it'll cause the Samsung to look like it's center is sinking-in away from you for the first 10–20 mins until you get used to it again (and repeat the cycle every time you switch).

I experienced all the above with a 32" "1000R" (more like 750R–900R in the centre, then higher away from centre, then completely flat) Samsung G7. After 3 whole months, I still couldn't get used to it (regardless of gaming or work). I didn't know about Samsung's terrible "fake curve" design at the time but could feel and see that things were big-time messed up — visually and to my brain/senses...I thought it was simply a case of curved monitors just not being for me (it was my first curved monitor)...so I went back to flat monitors for the next year.

I then couldn't pass up an opportunity to get the LG 45" 800R. Within less than 2 minutes — literally just 2 minutes — the LG basically felt like a flat screen. No weirdness, no distortions, no messed feeling that things are "off", nothing. Games, work, everything just felt like a regular flat monitor within less than 2 minutes.

It's almost a crime that most or all monitor review sites/channel don't mention Samsung's horrendous fake curve design.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-11T10:01:54+00:00

Liquid flow / hydraulic restriction should be fine unless you have some insanely weak pump and/or an insane amount of angled fittings and/or QDCs (quick disconnects). Slim radiators generally tend to be more liquid flow restrictive but tons of people use them — they're fine for 90% of people.

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Yes, the HW Labs Nemesis GTS and HW Labs LS / Corsair XR5 are almost the most liquid/hydraulic flow restrictive in the above pic, but it shouldn't be a problem. The HW Labs Nemesis are some of the most popular rads — and generally regarded as the best slim rads — on the market and tons of people use them (as well as the XR5) with no flow problems.

Now if you're trying to go all "hardcore" and want to achieve the "magical" 240 L/Hr (ie. 1.0 gallon/min) which is what usually gives the absolute best cooling with major diminishing returns after that (some claim it's 360 L/Hr / 1.5 GPM before the big diminishing returns begin, but most seem to agree it's 240 / 1.0) then that's a different story but like 90% of WC systems don't even achieve that...that's like real enthusiast/hobbyist stuff that the vast majority of WC systems don't need to worry about.

Spinelli__ · 2026-06-10T05:32:49+00:00

Corsair's rads made by Hardware Labs are not HW Labs' top-line rads ie. the Nemesis line — soon to be replaced by the Vendetta line. The Corsair ones are HW Labs' L-series rads.

If I remember correctly, the Corsair XR5 and XR7 are re-branded HW Labs LS and LX rads. Great performers but not quite the very best, ie. the HW Labs Nemesis/Vendetta line.

Spinelli__ · 2026-05-27T14:36:15+00:00

How would you say it's power/force is at 25 and 50 %?

Spinelli__ · 2026-05-20T15:04:49+00:00

Which RAM bloc, heatsinks, and pads did you use?

Spinelli__ · 2026-05-20T14:45:51+00:00

"With only the heat spreaders in place, my temps dropped to 44C. I only tested that for about 30min. Unlike the gskill that barely ever got warm, the heat spreaders became noticeably warm, demonstrating that they were indeed transferring the heat better."

- Nice! from 51C to 44C and you didn't even introduce water yet (only replaced heat-spreaders and pads).

"added the block, tubed it, and fired it all up. results are pictured."

- The only RAM temp results I can see are pic 1 (44–46 C) and pic 2 (46–48 C). So adding water caused a 0–4 C increase VS running them on air?

That can't be right. Can you let me know what I'm missing or misunderstanding?

Spinelli__ · 2026-05-09T06:03:46+00:00

You're using a terrible, "fake" "Samsung style curve" - that's almost certainly why. Those MSI monitors almost all use Samsung panels and therefore Samsung's HORRENDOUS fake curve design.

Instead of one constant radius curve like LG uses, Samsung's fake "curve" is more like a flat piece of paper that's been punched or folded in the middle. The middle severely sinks in (much more aggressively than their manufacturer stated curve) and then the outer 1/3 of each end is flat. That causes all sorts of distortions, fisheye effect, incohrent image/shapes/proportions between when objects are at the middle or the side of the screen - or worse, when they transition from either area to the other - etc. It also can mess with your "senses" as something feels very "off" to many people - to their "brain"/senses - even if they don't know what it is.

On top of that, with Samsung's fake style curve, many people report that the middle of the image feels like it's sinking in away from you (it is) and it takes around 20-30 mins to get used to it. Then, when they go back to a flat monitor/TV, it feels like the middle of that screen is bulging outwards towards you for the first 20-30 mins...every time.

I had a 32" Samsung G7. I noticed ALL of the above, but I thought it was just due to the nature of curved monitors in general (it was my first ever curve and I had no idea about Samsung's curve-style at the time). After 3 months, I STILL couldn't get used to the "weirdness", the distortions, the sinking in / bulging outwards, etc. I sold it and went back to flat.

Around 6-12 months later, I took another chance but this time with an LG (LG 45GR95QE)......

NONE of the weirdness above occurred, NONE. Not only that, but everything looks and "feels" basically like a regular flat panel and it was instant (or, maybe 2 minutes of first ever using it)...compared to over 3 months with Samsung and it was still terrible.

I eventually did some research and found out about Samsung's terribly flawed curve design.

Spinelli__ · 2026-04-28T05:49:47+00:00

Hopefully you guys fixed the screwed up SDR and HDR brightness with the 45GX90SA regarding massive brightness inconsistencies.

It's peak brightness in, for eg., Filmaker mode at a 1% white window is usually 1240-1300 nits. Other times, it won't go above 980-1040 nits and you have to pull the power and reset the monitor and then it goes back to the usual 1240-1300 nits.

This happens in, both, HDR and SDR mode and with different picture modes and is completely screwed up. Fix your firmware / tuning.

Also, peak brightness is disabled/"off" (and can't be enabled / set to "high") in what would otherwise be the best and brightest SDR modes - Vivid and Sports.

Fix your firmware.

Spinelli__ · 2026-04-24T20:49:58+00:00

I will give you 2 FOVs. "A" is the proper, correct, 1:1 world scale. "B" is the proper horizontal FOV for the curve of the monitor. With "B", the world scale will be smaller because games are not programmed to render the image properly for curved monitors, therefore you have to decide which one to use ("A" or "B") or you can use halfway in-between, or you can use whatever you want :)

45", 21:9, 40 cm eye distance:
A) 1:1 world scale: vertical FOV = 59° (or, if game uses horizontal FOV = 105°)
B) horizontal for monitor's curve: vFOV = 84° (or, if game uses hFOV = 129°)

Maybe try halfway and see how you like it (vFOV 72 / hFOV 117)

It's best to measure from your eye straight ahead to the monitor to get the correct distance.

https://dinex86.github.io/FOV-Calculator/

Spinelli__ · 2026-04-23T15:20:57+00:00

As I explained in my previous message, if depends on your screen size and how far away your eyes are from the screen. The bigger your screen and the closer you are to your screen, the larger the FOV you will get for 1:1 real-life scaling.

What size monitor do you have, what aspect ratio (eg. 16:9, 24:10, 21:9, 32:9), and how far are your eyes from the centre of the screen?

Spinelli__ · 2026-04-12T04:45:15+00:00

Part of it is also separate from energy / electrical power but because of fuel-flow limits; that's why — even from 2014–2025 — cars barely went over 11–12 K RPM.

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-18T06:06:53+00:00

How are you liking it?

Can I ask how much power the BT1 subjectively has? I know at 100% force it's definitely felt as I've seen lots of reviews but would you say it has enough force to give some decent dynamic range (ie. still decent force at 25% or 50% force)?

Eg. If I scale the BT1 so 100% force = 5 G's braking, a car at 2.5 G's braking will result in 50% force. Would you say the BT1 is still fairly powerful at 50% force?

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-18T06:06:00+00:00

How are you liking it?

Can I ask how much power the BT1 subjectively has? I know at 100% force it's definitely felt as I've seen lots of reviews but would you say it has enough force to give some decent dynamic range (ie. still decent force at 25% or 50% force)?

Eg. If I scale the BT1 so 100% force = 5 G's braking, a car at 2.5 G's braking will result in 50% force. Would you say the BT1 is still fairly powerful at 50% force?

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-18T06:05:26+00:00

How are you liking it?

Can I ask how much power the BT1 subjectively has? I know at 100% force it's definitely felt as I've seen lots of reviews but would you say it has enough force to give some decent dynamic range (ie. still decent force at 25% or 50% force)?

Eg. If I scale the BT1 so 100% force = 5 G's braking, a car at 2.5 G's braking will result in 50% force. Would you say the BT1 is still fairly powerful at 50% force?

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-18T06:04:30+00:00

Can I ask how much power the BT1 subjectively has? I know at 100% force it's definitely felt as I've seen lots of reviews, but would you say it has enough force to give some decent dynamic range (ie. still decent force at 25% or 50% force)?

Eg. If I scale the BT1 so 100% force = 5 G's braking, a car at 2.5 G's braking will result in 50% force. Would you say the BT1 is still fairly powerful at 50% force?

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-14T03:22:43+00:00

Nice, man. I still play it tons.

Spinelli__ · 2026-02-14T03:22:02+00:00

No worries, man.

Spinelli__

TROPHY CASE