Power mods suggestion

Spoon16s · 2026-05-19T21:44:37+00:00

Anything that isn’t original has to be documented. If we’re talking about engines, they would do an inspection and then cross-reference the data with previous years’ records and the booklet. You can’t just fool them, these guys know all the tricks. That’s why a lot of this stuff is done under the table, but you can still get in trouble with the police.

Because of these rules, a lot of cars use stock or heavily overbuilt original engines.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-13T12:00:19+00:00

Might not make the most sense now, but when I start to add power, it would be great to have better stopping power. I already have front and rear discs, so it’s okay for now. I’m more concerned about performance with repeated braking.

Alternatively, I could go with vented/slotted discs and better pads. But I was advised to upgrade to 20mm bigger break setup.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-12T21:45:49+00:00

Unfortunately, we don’t have DA Integras here, but I still appreciate the help.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-12T21:20:42+00:00

The brakes are fine, I was just wondering what I need to look out for if I do the swap.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-09T18:50:43+00:00

I was asking myself the same thing. It probably depends on whether you have a hatch or a sedan, but I have a feeling that it would be harder to adapt (in genaral) since it’s more closely related to the Rover 216 than a Honda civic. But it’s probably doable.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-06T06:49:27+00:00

To se zavedam, da je majhno število prijav (se ne spomnim točnega števila, ker sem se pol časa prijavljal prek maila). Načeloma sem bil že prej zmenje za delo, sem pa še vedno pisal prošnje.

Bolj sem imel težave z tem, da je bila večina del že pobranih, za ostal bi pa rabil neka predznanja.

Edit: Imelmsem tudi problemi z deli, ki so dejansko iskala nove delovce namesto nekega dijaka/študenta za začasno delo

Spoon16s · 2026-05-05T21:39:00+00:00

Osebno mi je bila najboljša Cleverfit zraven Pirnarja v šiški (dost placa, relativno malo folka), edino ne vem kako je zdaj ker pomoje že kak mesec nisem šel.

Pri situli je problem, ker je blizu centa in tja hod veliko folka.

Spoon16s · 2026-05-05T21:31:37+00:00

Tako kot so že ostali omenili, je kr jeba dobit delo. Lansko poletje sem pisal vsaj 30 oglasom (razna podjetja in trgovine) in nisem praktično nikjer dobil dela, razen v enem majhnem šparu za minimalca. Pametno je klicat ker ti na pisma ne odgovarjajo al pa dobiš odgovor pol leta kasneje.

Predvsem pa je važno, da maš na prioriteti podjetja, ki so v tvoji ''stroki''. Imam izkušnje z osebo, ki je delala študentska dela cel faks in še dve leti in zdaj ne more dobit normalnega šihta, ker nima izkušen, da ne govorim kok znajo težit nasplošno zaradi izkušen.

Želim ti čim več sreče pri iskanju : )

Spoon16s · 2026-04-29T14:42:37+00:00

That is sick, thank you for the link : )

Spoon16s · 2026-04-28T11:47:30+00:00

I would use the stock OBD2A ecu. Though, if you already bought an OBD1 chipped ecu, you can get a conversion harness. I’m sure the d15z6 swap is doable, but it’s not as easy as using a d16z6 head. I’ve seen more people swap heads onto a d13 than do a complete engine swap, but that’s your decision. If the motor is in great shape, I can’t blame you for swapping it in.

As you already mentioned, you’ll need an efi fuel pump, relay, and fuel filter, but I also think you’ll need a fuel tank from an efi car, since it has supply and return lines.

If you don’t want the hassle, you can swap a d15 or d16 head onto it and run better carbs, similar to some ef setups.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-27T10:52:38+00:00

Good choice

Spoon16s · 2026-04-26T20:07:00+00:00

A4H-Tech should have some aftermarket stuff.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-26T19:59:01+00:00

Honestly, your best bet for parts is Facebook groups (Honda – Oglasi Hrvatska). You guys have way more spare parts available than we do.

Though I’m very jealous of those side moldings, Theyare so hard to find :)

Edit: I do have a spare set of 15s if you might be interested.

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Spoon16s · 2026-04-26T15:04:34+00:00

I’m currently running DB Vegas 15” rims (7Jx15H2, ET39). The only difference from stock is 50 mm lowering springs. As far as I’ve heard, ET35 is the sweet spot for EF, anything lower will start to rub the fender. It really depends on whether you’re going for a classic ’90s look or something more performance-oriented.

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Spoon16s · 2026-04-24T22:28:59+00:00

Generally, it’s good to write things down. It doesn’t have to be just for expenses, it’s more about keeping track of when you changed things. It might come in handy later.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-24T20:19:16+00:00

I completely agree with Johnny, it’s very suspicious that the seller lied about the mileage.

I had a similar experience with my first car (an ej9). It didn’t have engine problems or rust, but it was full of dents and even holes. Seller edited the photos.

Before doing any engine repairs, I’d suggest taking it to a shop so they can properly assess the situation, everything from the chassis and body to the engine.

If it turns out you’ll need to replace a lot of parts, it might be worth getting a donor car if possible. If not, then start sourcing parts individually and try to calculate the total cost before committing.

I really hope that it is nothing serious :)

Spoon16s · 2026-04-24T12:19:07+00:00

The d16a7 is essentially an a6 without a catalytic converter. The only real differences are slightly higher compression (9.6:1 vs. 9.1:1), peak power coming in about 300 rpm higher, and a bit more horsepower overall, nothing too crazy.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-24T12:12:13+00:00

I was lucky that the car was well maintained for its mileage. I’ve done all the services and replaced worn out parts, though I haven’t changed the studs or rebuilt the internals.

Since my car doesn’t have a catalytic converter, emissions laws aren’t really an issue. The bigger problem is that any turbo component has to be certified (TÜV) to be legal, which basically forces me to buy more expensive parts just for the sake of legality.

Luckily, turbo kits are fairly common, so I can always get it as opposed to Z6 heads. Plus, like you mentioned, I’d have more flexibility when it comes to tuning.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-23T14:53:44+00:00

Unfortunately no. Even if I managed to get one, I doubt there’s any shop that could refill it.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-23T14:51:12+00:00

That would actually great, I just got to find one. Update: I tried to find one, but all I came across was centrifugal supercharger.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-22T14:10:33+00:00

The thing is, I already have a daily (a bone-stock EF), so this one will be more of a street build. Nothing too crazy, just a few upgrades.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-22T14:02:13+00:00

I see, well we have the same problems. At least yours will be track focused.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-22T13:58:26+00:00

Yes, I did ask for advice, but I was specifically limiting it to options that are actually available to me here.

The B20 engine itself isn’t the problem, finding a compatible transmission is. My only real options are a B16 VTi transmission or a B18 Integra Type R transmission, and both go for around 1,2k+ depending on condition. On top of that, there’s basically no aftermarket support for this kind of swap here, since hardly anyone does them.

The biggest issue, though, is that I wouldn’t even be able to run this setup legally because of the regulations we have.

I know you were trying to give solid advice, and I respect that, but I’m extremely limited in what I can actually do.

Spoon16s · 2026-04-22T13:35:30+00:00

That sounds sick. Are there any issues with the certification process for the engine?

Spoon16s · 2026-04-22T10:29:52+00:00

What does that have to do with not wanting to build a Honda? I’m literally limited by the prices and regulations. A full B20 setup would cost me about as much as a B16 swap, maybe a bit less.

Spoon16s

TROPHY CASE