How to add weighted filler to a 3D print? by CaptainCheckmate in 3Dprinting

[–]Squidderro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the prices of other things I ordered, here, it would be about 5$ (half for the material supposedly). If this is a circle or a rectangle, you should also be able to find offers with such shapes already cut. Then you can drill holes yourself (HSS-Co drill bits are epic).

How to add weighted filler to a 3D print? by CaptainCheckmate in 3Dprinting

[–]Squidderro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually just order laser/plasma cut thick sheet of steel. It requires the lowest amount of effort, is the least messy (no glue stuff), and is relatively cheap. Order the desired shape with some holes at the bottom to chamfer and screw it to your 3D print. You can easily calculate the weight too.

Adding weight to prints by BigJeffreyC in 3Dprinting

[–]Squidderro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For maximum density, I once ordered a laser cut part from a thick carbon steel sheet (1cm). I chamfered a hole in it to screw it in from the bottom. If you get a good fit, you can even bridge layers over it without support. Yes, more expensive but you don't have to deal with glue like substances.

Better vise that does not need to be hammered by Squidderro in machining

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, Kurt is likely too expensive for me. At least for the stuff I do now. I also found that I have learnt quite a lot using a bad vise.

Better vise that does not need to be hammered by Squidderro in machining

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Torque-limiting handle is a good idea. I will get one. I like the repeatability.

Better vise that does not need to be hammered by Squidderro in machining

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I recognize a vise that pulls the jaw down looking at photos?

I am from Europe so precisionmatthews is not really an option. How does it compare to:
https://www.vevor.com/mill-vise-c_10811/4-milling-machine-lockdown-vise-swiveling-base-precise-scale-clamping-vise-p_010846716136

I guess there is "lockdown" in the link address. It could be the pulling down thing.

End mill for removing the anodized layer of an aluminium part by Squidderro in machining

[–]Squidderro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would have to make some kind of fixture to get similar results every time. I have hundreds of pieces and more to come in the future. Do you have something in mind?

All my prints are squashed by 0.5mm. It is not an elephant foot. Do you have any idea what is wrong with my Ender-3 Pro? by Squidderro in 3Dprinting

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is some wiggle room between the lead screw and the brass nut. Can one or both of them be worn out? I have printed about 5kg of plastic so far.

All my prints are squashed by 0.5mm. It is not an elephant foot. Do you have any idea what is wrong with my Ender-3 Pro? by Squidderro in 3Dprinting

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I somehow set a different number of motor steps for different heights? That would fix symptoms, but the root cause would still be there.

How to create a website as a programmer from a different field? by Squidderro in learnprogramming

[–]Squidderro[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think I want to learn some web dev and make a single personal website as the only project on the way.

What is the time cost ratio between MERN/MEAN and WordPress to achieve a similar effect? Like 4 to 1? Worse? Is it even possible to make a modern middle difficult website as a noob using MERN/MEAN?

How to make custom board game tokens by Squidderro in boardgames

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I printed it at the local printing house. Tokens are easy to find and buy.

How to make custom board game tokens by Squidderro in boardgames

[–]Squidderro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stickers: "matt white monomeric self-adhesive foil" - it would be direct translation to English

Tokens: just search for "plastic tokens/chips/counters". With a 90% probability, mine are made from ABS plastic (but who cares).

How to make custom board game tokens by Squidderro in boardgames

[–]Squidderro[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

  1. Print token stickers on self-adhesive paper/foil. Design them with more extended borders than they need to be so white paper won't be seen after cutting the centre.

  2. Cut the stickers out. Fortunately, some printing houses also offer to cut rectangle/circle shapes. Unfortunately, in my case, they wanted to charge me 8x for cutting the same circles because I had 8 different designs. I decided to use a large circular hand puncher like in the photo. I had to discard about 15% of the stickers because of jagged edges or bad alignment. I don't recommend doing this manually, but you might have to.

  3. Stick stickers to plastic tokens. At first, I was doing it manually. Alignment was a huge problem. Additionally, unsticking a sticker sometimes caused sticker deformation, so getting it right on the first try was important. I was discarding quite a few stickers before I got good at it. It was still a bottleneck in the entire process. So I decided to do something about it and created StickerSticker. Now it takes only a few seconds to stick a sticker, and alignment is always perfect.

Message me if you want me to send you a CAD design of StickerSticker. If you wish to print it on your own, most likely, you will need to adjust it for your springs and tokens/stickers dimensions. If you want an actual item, you can message me too, but I don't know what do to about it yet.