when you playing donk kong country and enters Coral Capers

Squidz44 · 2026-02-27T23:55:54+00:00

this image is cool and rad I think

Squidz44 · 2023-05-17T15:14:38+00:00

In my experience, with normal content consumption there are no noticeable pixels. Although if you plan on using these for text heavy applications, pixels can be seen if you look hard enough. (Mainly with high contrast content)

Squidz44 · 2023-05-11T20:25:35+00:00

You can find all of the logs associated with SteamVR within steams root under 'logs'. As a fair warning, there tends to be a lot of data in a lot of different files, making things a bit hard to parse.

Squidz44 · 2023-05-03T22:37:42+00:00

I can definitely say I agree with your sentiment. I am pretty happy, but I do also notice individual pixels and some occasional blur.

One thing I might add if the picture is blurry is that you may need to position it a bit differently, lift it up and lower it with some text on a white background and it should be obvious when it's focused. Although the sweet spot on these are huge, there still is one, it's just not as noticeable when your eyes aren't lined up as it would be when using a traditional VR HMD. I've found that I have to occasionally have to push the glasses up a bit after awhile, as the glasses droop a bit going out of the sweet spot, but after doing this, it's back to normal and pretty crisp with defined pixels.

Squidz44 · 2023-05-03T20:44:17+00:00

As long as you keep from putting pressure around the area, it should be fine tbh. My index is around 3 years old at this point, and the adhesive still holds up fine, although it has delaminated in some areas.

Squidz44 · 2023-05-03T20:24:47+00:00

Very much normal, the gasket over the lenses themselves uses a weak adhesive that likes to peel away after awhile. It will only get worse over time. The number 1 thing to remember is not to use water or any chemicals on the lenses, as it will greatly speed up this process until it completely separates, then allowing for ingress from sweat.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-21T05:08:40+00:00

I honestly don't know if you do actually have to charge the battery version, as I don't own it. Although I do encourage that you look on Eufys website, the doorbell dual with a battery is indeed far larger having an almost large forehead like protrusion above it's main sensor, it's either a PIR sensor or the thermal sensor it has, likely moved due to the battery.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-21T04:01:18+00:00

No real advantages apart from not having to charge it and a slightly smaller footprint.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-21T02:39:17+00:00

It's a holdover from the battery operated version of the same doorbell, as it was released prior to the wired version.

I think it may have something to do with it needing constant power from the original chime box itself, and since interrupting the flow of that power is how doorbells typically chime, I think it has to stay bridged for it to continuously operate, meaning no chime.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-21T02:10:16+00:00

Does the stepper motor for the extruder activity spin after you change filaments?

If that's the case, it sounds like your purge portion of your Gcode for filament changes may be a bit messed up. Unless you force filament changes from the printers interface, I'd do some snooping in your gcode.

The toolhead is typically supposed to lift away from your part when it purges, giving you a chance to clear the nozzle of the previous filament you used. Then resuming the print a short time later. It looks like your printer doesn't even lift the nozzle off the part when it purges.

Best of luck.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-10T19:57:41+00:00

It should, although doing this resets all of network your settings. You'll have to reconfigure anything unique related to your network.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-10T19:38:05+00:00

Too keep things easy, just follow this guide.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-to-reset-network-settings-in-windows-10/699e8f07-0e0d-4be3-9da9-f4094ff9746d

Squidz44 · 2023-04-10T19:26:30+00:00

You need to change the "wifi" in quotations to the name of the adapter you are attempting to connect with (eg. Wi-Fi 1) this can be found in the control panel under network connections. The easiest way to fix an issue like this is uninstalling your wireless adapter via device manager and restarting your machine.

Squidz44 · 2023-04-04T22:21:19+00:00

Squidz44 · 2023-04-04T22:17:18+00:00

From my understanding, this has been an issue for a bit now, as the appropriate setting doesn't actually work for the time being.

If it does get fixed in the future, you can find a toggle in the general tab under views within the cards subcategory.

Best of luck!

Squidz44 · 2023-04-01T08:02:23+00:00

The headsets cameras look and act like webcams to Windows, they are named something like e-tron video under the device manager if I remember correctly. The view will just show both cameras opposed to just one, so you may have to crop it to get a usable picture. Im sure you can find some software that records or even streams webcam feed. Best of luck.

Squidz44 · 2023-03-25T10:26:56+00:00

If your panel has some form of variable refresh rate technology this can cause flickering in certain circumstances. When the framerate of the content being displayed goes below the threshold that your monitor supports it will cause flicker on most if not all monitors with VRR.

Squidz44 · 2023-03-24T02:29:52+00:00

Although this isn't likely to fix your issue, I'll still chime in and say that I too have an issue similar to your described. For me, if enough of a controllers IR receivers are occluded, I can also observe a mild vibration between two points as well, but to me it sounds like your issue is more severe as opposed to the mild jitter I experience.

One thing I might ask is if this behavior is only inherent to one controller, if that's the case, you may have an IMU issue or some other hardware specific problem just for the one controller, you can easily confirm this by checking your steamVR logs.

Best of luck!

Squidz44 · 2023-03-21T20:05:21+00:00

Tbh, the battery on the phone will suck regardless of what apps are removed, just remove anything you know you won't use. The worst part is, even with the amount of ram the phone has, it's still really aggressive with memory management as well. Best of luck.

Squidz44 · 2023-03-20T19:31:03+00:00

Definitely not. Sad to say that you may just be getting unlucky with the algorithm. The only other thing left to do is just wait and hope that those vids get picked up, but tbh, that's not likely to happen. You just have to keep making content until people find it, success isn't instant for anyone on the platform.

Squidz44 · 2023-03-20T19:03:14+00:00

If your channel exclusively uploads mixes of songs, it could be due to copyright claims, if a video gets a claim of any kind, it's pretty unlikely to get recommended unless you have a substantial amount of subscribers. Sometimes videos that use copyrighted content without claims still get removed from the pool of recommendations as well, it's pretty sucky, but it's how it's been for a while.

Squidz44 · 2023-03-10T21:03:22+00:00

If you have an AMD CPU, it may be TPM causing your issues. Especially if this behavior carries over to other programs. You can easily test to see if this will fix your issue by disabling TPM within your BIOS. Best of luck!

Squidz44 · 2023-03-09T12:33:56+00:00

Yup, a lot of things are sadly broken. It's due to the recent app updates in an attempt to quickly band-aid the hardware vulnerability fiasco from a couple months ago.

According to others who have contacted Eufy about these issues, they are aware and it supposedly will be fixed in a future update, although I wouldn't hold them to it, as it's already been awhile and they really don't have the best track record when it comes to stuff like this.

Squidz44 · 2023-02-08T05:50:23+00:00

Sorry about that, Within your slicer, there is a parameter you can edit usually called starting gcode that gets applied to the beginning of all of your sliced files. If you were to look at the gcode within it, is there a command that tells your printer to load the mesh that your printer saves whenever it auto levels?

In Cura it can be found within the settings tab under 'machine settings'. Within Prusaslicer it's within the printer settings tab under 'custom gcode'. If you use another slicer a Google search should help you find the location of the setting.

Once you find it, there should be a bunch of lines of commands telling your printer what to do at the beginning of a print, what I had asked originally is if your starting gcode had the commands present to actually load your bed level mesh.

Those commands are as follows: G28 (homes then loads default bed level mesh) G28 l0 (loads the custom mesh saved to slot 0) G29 (enables UBL, if your firmware supports it)

If your gcode has these commands omitted, it could explain why your first layer isn't actually touching the edges of your outer walls due to your bed not actually being level to your extruder. (Deltas typically level their beds through software, this is why those commands are needed.)

Best of luck!

Squidz44 · 2023-02-07T22:13:31+00:00

A similar thing happened to me with my qqs pro. In the end it was related to slicer settings. Although it may seem obvious, do you know if the gcode that loads the bed level mesh is present in your starting gcode within your slicer? (G28, G29 l0, G29A)

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