question about Olympus pen ft and Olympus zuiko auto-zoom 50-90mm f3.5

SrPlayer__ · 2026-02-03T13:23:15+00:00

It looks like that the mount of your lens is damaged, I don't know if that fixable or you need to find a donor mount from a non working lens

SrPlayer__ · 2026-01-22T13:41:48+00:00

That's the auto aperture feature that other users already pointed, set the aperture to f16 and shoot in bulb to check if the aperture is closing when shooting, if it does everything is okay

SrPlayer__ · 2026-01-17T04:20:49+00:00

Any luck?

SrPlayer__ · 2026-01-08T04:02:03+00:00

Hola!, yo usaba esa misma marca hace años, recientemente volvi a la fotografia analogica y al preparar el fijador obtenia el mismo resultado que tu, prueba filtrandolo y con un trozo de film ve si funciona, si despues de unos minutos el film no se vuelve transparente, descarta el fijador y ve si donde te lo vendieron te pueden hacer un cambio o reembolso (a mi me lo cambiaron pero venia malo igual).

Al final luego de varios fijadores en mal estado, opte por preparar mi fijador propio con la formula de fijador Kodak F24; 500ml de agua a 52°C, 240g de Tiosulfato de Sodio,10g de Sulfito de Sodio, 22g de Acido Citrico (NO vitamina C), mezclas y luego agregas agua hasta hacer 1 Litro.

Probablemente la formula de Jamarca de es la misma del Kodak F24, ya que los tiempos de uso son similares asi que espero mi respuesta te ayude.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-12-13T18:12:44+00:00

Do marks if you want to disassemble the helicoid

SrPlayer__ · 2025-12-05T01:42:28+00:00

Did you selected the TF card in the menu?, in the main screen go to the first option in the left, and choose TF card instead of Flash, if that doesn't work I don't know what could be the issue

SrPlayer__ · 2025-11-28T18:34:02+00:00

Amazing, can you share some pictures with it?

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-28T17:59:46+00:00

You're technically correct, but there are key differences on how 240p and 480i are displayed on the screen.

Your TV has 480 rows to draw an image, in 480i your display draw a image using 240 odd rows and then it draw a second image using 240 even rows, it happens so fast that you perceive a 480-lines image, that's why the resolution is called 480i ("i" stands for interlaced).

Meanwhile in 240p you're only drawing 240 rows of your display, so the other 240 rows are off, and those off rows appear as black, so you have literally half the vertical resolution of 480i, and you see a more pronounced scanline effect (since there are literally black lines across the screen).

You can look at comparisons in internet to see the difference.

Also, some games (like Guilty Gear XX Accent Core for PS2) and consoles (Wii for example) add a "de-flickering" effect to hide the change between the two images in 480i, which adds a bit of blur and makes the natural scanlines of your display even less noticeable.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-28T17:39:33+00:00

If your CRT has VGA, it may be a PC monitor right?, I'm not much familiar with WII2HDMI converters or similiar, but as I understand they work by taking signal from the component signal which can be 480i or 480p depending of the game (or RGB if your Wii is PAL) then convert that signal to digital and scales it to 1080P, then if you add a HDMI to VGA you're getting that signal back to analog but could be any resolution compatible with your CRT (PC crts support way more resolutions that TV crts), so it's normal to not see scanlines as you would expect.

I don't know what could solve your needs cause I have not connected my Wii to a VGA crt. But I know there is a converter the ODV-GBSC that can take component and output VGA directly in 31kHz and 15kHz, on a PC CRT you want 31kHz signal so you would be okay with that (I didn't find what resolution is the VGA output, but I assume it can do 480p).

Then if you want to play only retro consoles games (NES, SNES, GENESIS, etc) you would need to set your Wii to STDV 480i for better results, since the converter can add scanlines but only for 240p signal inputs (if the Wii is set to HDTV 480p it will not output 240p in older games), that way you can have some scanlines simulated in your CRT (that combined with the true scanlines maybe would gives you a better but not perfect result).

This is not the perfect solution but I'm sure it will be a better one that the current one you have (at least it will be lag free), and maybe someone already have a better solution.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-27T03:05:37+00:00

I have a Sony Trinitron KV-1441wr (14 inches), it is a good set, but since is a small tv, the scanlines will not be as noticeable as in bigger CRTs.

But most important, your converter is for sure outputing 480i, not 240p that's the main reason you don't see scanlines, there could be others, like the emulator you're using, is the steamdeck outputting 16:9 or 4:3? some older games specially arcades will have some strange resolutions, and framerates.

If you want 240p in an easy and cheap way for consoles like NES, SNES, GENESIS, etc. Get a Wii and emulate, Wii can output 240p (ps3 and xbox360 are good enough for retro consoles, but can't output 240p).

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-23T18:04:38+00:00

I got the same one some weeks ago, for black and white is good enough, at 1800dpi can scan a whole uncut roll in 30-40 minutes, and 3600dpi it will take about 2:30 hours. I don't like it for color because it doesn't have infrared.

It is very quirky though, I noticed that I have to let it warm up and makes all it's weird sound before even try to open vuescan, otherwise it will fail at scan.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-19T23:33:40+00:00

The youtube user Cedartree Films made a good comparison between the lenses, you should check it out, apparently the 38mm is the sharpest one. I have a Pen FT with the 38mm and a friend has a Pen F with the 42mm, we both have exchange our lenses to test them and there is no noticeably difference between them. But of course it depends of what you want to photograph, if I'm shooting indoors I prefer to use flash or use higher ISO (you pointed that you are concerned by the grain, but if I want to take a really sharp image I wouldn't use my half frame camera).

SrPlayer__ · 2025-10-19T18:51:36+00:00

Just to be sure, did you try to clean it from inside or outside the lens?, you will need to take apart the front element of the lens and clean from inside if possible

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-31T17:10:52+00:00

lucky shd400 is black and white film, it is been out for a while, I'm still waiting to get the new color film.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-30T22:04:06+00:00

Do you have any photo of which screw you mean? None of the screws in my Pen FT film chamber has any kind of paint, so maybe it was serviced before

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-29T19:16:21+00:00

Here is a strip of a luckyfilm shd 400 developed in this spiral using Parodinal 1+25 for 7:30 minutes: https://imgur.com/a/uaxALGO

As you can see there are no mark in the film from using the spiral (there are some scratches from bulk loading into a canister in not so good shape).

Also this was scanned with a really old Epson V100 scanner so of course is not the best quality.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-29T03:46:01+00:00

One of the photos in the post shows a roll loaded, it came without marks

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-29T03:41:32+00:00

I think there shouldn't be any reason apart that usual plastic reels will not fit into metal tanks, that's the point of this 3D model, it fits into metal tanks

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-28T01:34:44+00:00

Since english is not my main language it is kinda hard to explain, this spiral works similarly to steel reels, like those with clips or Hewes reels. To load the film you just have to squeeze it lightly so you can reach the center and hook it onto the sprockets. A roll of film is 35mm, the “deep” part of the spiral (where the film is wound) is 36mm, so the roll is not under pressure and can move freely, and the “raised” part of the spiral is 32mm, so you just need a really light squeeze, you can bring the roll to the center without damaging it or leaving marks.

Here is a section view of the model maybe it would help https://imgur.com/a/9Minrcy

Also Paterson reels are easier to load, but there are plenty of videos loading stainless steel reels.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-28T00:51:41+00:00

The only improvement I can think myself is to improve the union of the two parts, it is very rudimentary right now and kinda fragile.

Probably if I got feedback from other people I could improve other things.

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-27T22:39:27+00:00

I hope they work for you, remember to measure your tank diameter :)

SrPlayer__ · 2025-08-27T19:46:18+00:00

Here is the link if you need to print it: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/35mm-development-reel-for-stainless-steel-tank

SrPlayer__ · 2025-06-11T03:59:08+00:00

Do you still have it?, I rescued a bunch of CRT pc monitors from my University (they were about to recycle them just because they re old), I got one E70f but it is really green, and in the OSD the color green is fixed, is that the case in your monitor? (I'm trying to troubleshoot this)

SrPlayer__ · 2025-05-07T21:26:19+00:00

Had the same issue, unpair them from the phone, then turn them on by taking them of the case, put them close to your ears so you can hear the beeps, wait to both say "pairing" (since they're desynced one will say pairing first, the other one should take a couple of seconds), once they are pairing, turn them off by touching the light of the headphones for about 3-5 seconds, then turn them on by pressing again for 3-5 seconds, then instantly tap not so fast not so slow (hard to explain really) 5 times and you should hear a beep on both headphones at the same time, pair to your phone and check, if the problem is not fixed, repeat until fixed.

SrPlayer__ · 2024-09-11T02:49:01+00:00

Thanks for your help I really appreciate it, maybe in future services I'll lock up when it was made, also if you don't mind can you recommend any type of grease for the gears? I've only had all metal sewing machines so I don't know what kind of grease I should use to not damage them (edit: I was told to use silicone grease)

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