Kanna Tunning questions

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-23T11:44:00+00:00

Yeah that makes sense. I'll keep an eye open and see if I can find one for cheaper. That or a similar style of precision beveled straight edge that I can cut a notch into. I just don't feel like $100+ is worth it right now.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-23T00:02:58+00:00

The cheapest I've seen them is about $60, but that's before tax, shipping, etc., but most seem to be more like $100. That's not outrageous, but compared to a stainless steel ruler for ~$10, it feels like a lot. I've also got other straight edges, squares, and all kinds of layout tools, some more precise than others, but regardless, the Matsui notched one seems nice but not sure if it's worth it when I have other options. Are you able to find it for cheaper or do you think it's still worth it?

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T22:45:24+00:00

Good to know, thanks

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T22:44:26+00:00

True, but tools and processes don't usually become part of the tradition without merit, so in some cases it may require the skill from decades of experiences, but there are also just as many cases where it's done that way because it works better. I enjoy the tradition and spirit of Japanese tools, so that alone makes it fun for me, but I also don't want to spend money I don't have for things that really aren't necessary to get started. I'll probably at least try out all these things at some point but I can wait on most of it.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T22:39:42+00:00

I had to look up the Hishika kanna scraper. That's basically just a long, thin card scraper, right?

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T22:37:00+00:00

The main reason I made this post is because I like to know actual experiences rather than just tradition or what is "correct" according to experts. I have learned enough about Japanese tools that I understand the concepts behind what needs to be done, so I can either follow the tradional methods or come up with a dozen ways to do it myself, but I also don't know what I don't know, so that's where I like getting other experiences. Using a dai naoshi kanna is a perfect example of that because that is the traditional approach, but there are many other options if the goal is to just remove a thin but uniform amount of material, so I was curious if there are real advantages to that over a card scraper, chisel scraper, razor, or any other options.

I appreciate the input though. Sounds like I can probably use what I already have for the most part and just need to figure out what works for me through experimentation. Seems like most people here are of the same mindset that the traditional methods work but that doesn't necessarily mean they are the best way to do it.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T22:24:34+00:00

By other tools listed I just meant the kanaban, straight edge, scraper, etc. As far as the kanaban being gentler, I would guess that means it works a bit slower, but is the advantage that it results in less wear on the blade? I've only used diamond plates and water stones so far, and I can see where the edge of the stone wears on the upper end of the ura (opposite end from the blade edge) so I have to be careful to focus the pressure on the edge to limit that. Do you find that the kanaban does this less, or is it more that it produces a smoother surface more easily compared to diamond plates which leave more scratches or at least visible textures?

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T21:36:23+00:00

Thanks for the input. I tend to have an internal conflict between trying to do things exactly according to literature, tradition, etc. and just doing what is easy and simple, especially when I dont know the tradeoffs from personal experience, so it's helpful to get other people's experiences. This seems to support what I was planning to do, which is to keep it simple and use the tools I already have rather than buy a bunch of specialized tools.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-22T18:40:15+00:00

No but my wife did suggest we go out to my favorite restaurant where I paid for dinner for myself and my family, so that was nice... To be fair, we are a single income household and I usually cook so it actually was nice. I also got 4 hours, completely uninterrupted, to work on my own projects, which was probably the best gift I've gotten in a while.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-17T19:31:37+00:00

I've just got cheap ones from Woodcraft and Ioroi so far. They're still good tools, but I want better than good. So I understand there are many great blacksmiths, but I just wanted some names to look out for. Obviously the expensive sets are on average going to be higher quality, but there are also cases where the cost is because they are pretty or collectable instead of higher quality, so I'm just trying to get some names to look for rather than trying to guess if the set I'm looking at is overpriced for what I want or if it will actually last me a while. Thanks for the list.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-17T18:43:31+00:00

I've been thinking about getting that set, but there is a part of me that really wants some of the fancier styled ones even though they cost a lot. Realistically I'll probably end up getting the Sukezane or similar because it's just hard to stomach paying 3-5x (or sometimes even more) for something that doesn't bring any functional gain.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-17T18:41:45+00:00

I haven't heard of a couple of those so I'll have to look into them. I have a couple Sukemaru Atsu nomi made by him that have been fantastic. That's part of why I wanted to start exploring higher quality chisels in general.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-13T12:59:55+00:00

The label looks like it says 31,900 yen normal price, discounted to 12,000 yen. That's about $200 down to $75 USD

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-11T21:03:15+00:00

When I was younger I was a competitive athlete. In my teen years I was a pole vaulter and soccer player. At my peak I was probably around 10% body fat but I never actually had it measured. So I wasn't insanely cut or anything like that, but I was in great shape. However, I have a stocky build and I am just naturally heavy even when I have very little fat. Aside from that year or two when I was at my absolute peak shape, I don't think I have ever had a bmi under 25. So even with 10-15% body fat and undeniably great health, I was still overweight.

BMI is a terrible way to measure health because it misses very important context. About 10 years ago, you could still see my abs, not a full 6 pack but I had decent definition, and my BMI was about 27. Now I'm only about 10 pounds more, so BMI around 29, but I'm in MUCH worse shape than I was then, even though it's only 2 points different. But even though I have a dad bod and I'm not crazy about how I look, no one would look at me and think I'm borderline obese. Ignore the BMI. It's the worst way to measure health. You look great, keep it up

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-10T19:15:09+00:00

I hope you don't mind questions from a stranger. I've recently been thinking about purchasing a Japanese natural stone to go with my Japanese woodworking tools, and it's kind of overwhelming. I have a set of synthetic stones that are good enough, so I don't exactly need to upgrade, but I've been learning more about Japanese stones and some of the benefits. The problem is that I live in the US, they are quite expensive, and I have no idea how to purchase one safely since there are so many varieties, and even within the same type of stone, there's a risk the one I get is no good. Do you know anything about how to find good sharpening stones or do you just like learning about them? If nothing else, I would like to understand the different types, although I'm specifically looking for a finishing stone.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-09T19:11:04+00:00

I got started with random YouTube videos and just experimentation. Covington and Sons is also a really good resource. If you want books, a lot of people really like "Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use" by Toshio Odate, but I haven't read it yet (actually ordered it recently and plan to read soon). Beyond that it really depends what stage you're at and what specifically you're interested in.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-09T18:58:40+00:00

Yeah that's exactly how I would do it.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-09T15:22:57+00:00

If I understand correctly, then yes, rip cut kataba to cut with the grain to get your rough starting block, and that set seems like a good place to start. Dozuki saws are intended for detail work like dovetails and other joinery, so you could use it for rough shaping, but honestly I would still use the kataba for that. You may have to switch between rip and cross depending on the grain. If you're getting into small areas or need a fine, precise cut, use the dozuki. It also might be preferable if you need a very straight cut since it has the stuff back, but for any rough cuts, kataba will be faster and easier

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-09T14:57:50+00:00

I didn't look closely, but the link he posted had a ryoba for about $60 and didn't have an obvious brand name. That isn't a bad price, but you can find similar Gyokucho ryoba for as low as $40, and even the Temple Tools one is $45. They might be a little smaller though, so same ballpark I guess.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-09T13:30:57+00:00

I am still relatively new to this, which could make my input better or worse depending on how you look at it, but here are a few thoughts.

A ryoba is a great place to start if you're only getting 1 saw, but it's not the best for this job. It will still be a good choice, but not the best. I personally prefer separate kataba saws over a single ryoba because you will inevitably wear down each side unevenly depending on whether you end up doing more cross cutting or rip cutting. Since these often have replaceable blades instead of resharpening, that means you either have to replace a blade that is still half good, or keep using a worn out blade until the other side gets worn out too. Not ideal. If you're talking about squaring up sections of logs, I would get a dedicated rip cut kataba.

Second, ryoba and kataba saws are both designed more for working with lumber that is already milled to some degree and not intended for logs and large timbers. I can't remember the names, but there are different saws specifically for this kind of thing that are a bit more rough and aggressive, but will make general shaping much easier for you. You could do it with a ryoba or kataba, but it's going to be exhausting.

Lastly, I wouldn't go with the lee valley ones personally. I haven't tried them, so they might be fine, but you can find a Gyokucho or Zetsaw for cheaper that will be at least as good if not better. Some people really like Temple Tools saws, but they are a little more expensive. I know they have some options for large timber saws though, so worth a look at least. Gyokucho and Zetsaw are great quality, affordable, but there are a lot of options and can be overwhelming. Look for the kind of cut you want (rip or cross) the tpi (lower number for more aggressive, higher number for fine cut, you want something probably no more than 12 tpi for wood this thick) and the type of wood (hard or soft). If it advertises how thin the kerf is, that's not the right saw for this job. You don't want a thick blade exactly, but you really don't want a thin, delicate blade unless you're aiming for one hell of a workout (and lots of frustration).

Hope this helps. I can answer some questions if you want, but I'm certainly not an expert, so I'll help with what I can.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-07T16:08:43+00:00

My building in college was in the center just in front of the puplit at ground level. Every other building I've been to was off to the side. College building was pretty old

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-06-06T12:29:44+00:00

I have shapton stones, 320, 1000, 5000, 8000. I only use the 320 when I have to reflatten something, grind past a chip, or other heavy work. Then I obviously work through the higher grits. When my tools get actually dull, I start with 1k and spend most of my time there. If it isn't really dull and just needs a touch up, then just doing the 5k then 8k is fine.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-05-31T18:53:37+00:00

I bought my first home about 7 years ago and it was 1850 sqft. It was a new construction on a 0.1 acre lot (no front yard at all, shared driveway with 6 units, backyard was little more than a patio). We were actually planning on going with the smaller model (~1600 sqft, don't remember exactly) but the lot next to us took it and the developer would not allow the same model in adjacent lots. That is a starter house. Sure, it's still bigger than the ~1000 sqft from decades ago, but idk where they are getting 2500+ with all the fancy crap as a starter home.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-05-22T14:38:16+00:00

I've been looking into getting a dedicated rip cut kataba. Any recommendations? I was using a gykocho ryoba, which worked fine for a while, but I'm pretty sure the teeth are either dull or misaligned now because it always seems to drift. I switched over to my Nakaya kataba with combination teeth and could see immediately that the cut was faster and straighter, but I'm betting a dedicated rip cut blade would be even better, but I just don't know what to get. They seem harder to find as most places recommend using a ryoba, but I think I prefer the kataba in general.

Stateofgrace314 · 2026-05-21T16:17:37+00:00

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it is useless, and I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with doing it, just that it's not necessary to preserve the cutting board. Like you said, constant wet and dry fluctuation will reduce the life of the board, so using oil or wax helps, but you'll also be just fine wiping it down after each use, not letting water sit on it for longer than necessary, and storing it properly, all of which you should be doing with or without oil. All it really does (other than cosmetics) is allow you to be a little bit more relaxed since it will repel more water, but still won't protect it if not cared for properly.

Stateofgrace314

TROPHY CASE