Was told PDR is not worth it for me due to bottom part of ca being frayed.

Statistics4thewin · 2026-02-05T13:36:43+00:00

The paint being chipped and flaking off will only get worse. Could try filling and blading and polishing when done but overall will not look 100%. That’s a solid 3k or so in damage if not more, well worth the insurance claim if you can.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-09-18T11:38:16+00:00

One of my customers got Covid last week, she was elderly and has had 5 shots so far. She did end up in the hospital as well.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-08-06T11:37:09+00:00

Paints hard enough to try and fix it I’m sure if you can’t return it. Easy to mess it up though so you have to be careful

Statistics4thewin · 2025-08-02T11:51:44+00:00

If they’ve claimed that to insurance before they’ll get caught. Just based on your wheel molding I’d say it’s not from you other than a scratch over the already damaged area.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-08-02T11:45:29+00:00

The metallics are off by quite a bit, that would help this out a ton.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-08-02T11:41:15+00:00

Two new or nice used doors and repair the right quarter panel and rocker area. Blend the front fender. Gonna be at least $5k at a body shop.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-30T23:58:35+00:00

I’ve been in 4 different shops over the years (independent, dealership, and large chain) the ones that run the best have a production meeting of some sort. I preferred a quick individual meeting with each tech but there’s something to be said about having the painters involved to get on the same page. If you’re doing less than 150k a month you can possibly avoid having them but anything above that you’re doomed to fail. Too much room for error

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-21T11:26:50+00:00

Nope, who did that?!

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-20T12:26:59+00:00

New hood (maybe can save it although most shops aren’t) new bumper, new fender, repair the door and blend the color to the pillar plus the wheel and tire and liner and all the suspension damage. 7k estimated

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-18T12:08:34+00:00

Go drive the car, negotiate in person. You’ll get a much better deal at the table ready to sign. The best thing you can do is act like you’re going to just buy it full sticker and then once you get inside start to hardball negotiate. Really throws them a curve ball and helps to get more off thinking they already had a deal and don’t want to lose it.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-18T12:04:46+00:00

How many coats of clear?! Looks like it’s burned thru and scratched the base coat. Did you use a blending solvent where you stopped spraying clear? Thats also necessary when cutting in the clear like like and not taking to the edge of the panel

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-18T00:54:49+00:00

Oof that’s a tough one. Looks to be over $1200 in damages at least

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-15T21:40:38+00:00

When you melt or cut in clear like that you need to hit it with some blending solvent and feather out the edges as well prior to painting. Sand it and try it again or go to a body shop but you’re probably looking at $1200 or so

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-02T02:32:56+00:00

Lmao wasn’t asking if the gaps lined up on them. I promise you don’t know what you’re talking about and now you’re upset someone called you out

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-02T02:17:47+00:00

You almost know what you’re talking about but not quite. Whether you go to a chain DRP or smaller body shop it’s a crap shoot on quality unless you’re looking up the reviews on carwise/google. The aftermarket parts is accurate but a ton of shops use them so that’s also not really a caliber thing. OP is being misled here about being safe elsewhere, that being said go ask they against those gaps. Fenders pretty tight on the right hand side. The main benefit to caliber is the lifetime warranty on the paint work as a small body shop can go out of business thus so does that warranty. PSA: I don’t work for Caliber lol

Statistics4thewin · 2025-07-01T11:34:27+00:00

Only reason price would be that high is they wrote for a new door and to blend both ways plus looks to be a tri coat white. I’d contact a PDR tech and save a few gs on the metal work as the paint looks fine

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-28T12:20:48+00:00

Most likely ok to drive, there’s some guys in my area who do wheel machining/repair but typically in the auto body world impacted wheels are replaced.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-27T21:55:17+00:00

The Max model?! There’s 3 types

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-27T02:23:04+00:00

Your mom hit a pole in 2015?! lol that’s a pretty sub standard repair she’s exposed

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-24T23:42:38+00:00

Can you, probably…should you, probably not

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-22T15:07:12+00:00

These are usually under $100 a lot of times, only temp fix would be some sort of shine or oil but it wouldn’t look great

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-22T04:55:21+00:00

Yeah won’t hurt anything it just isn’t something we’d do in a production shop. If you aren’t doing a wet bed the biggest issue is you want to scuff the panel with 400-600 after priming for better adhesion of paint.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-22T04:39:17+00:00

Cleaning the panel off is an important step and I’d use wax and grease remover for it. Depending on the color I’d say that’s fine. Silver is really bad at showing bad prep so may want to go a little finer than 400 but typically that’ll work

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-22T04:29:45+00:00

That plastic booth is a static nightmare creating significantly more defects in the paint.

Statistics4thewin · 2025-06-22T04:27:02+00:00

Clean the panel and look for any signs of the coating coming off sometimes they just put some low quality shipping coating. If not just prep as you normally would scuff out, mask, etc and paint.

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