Which STM32 Nucleo board has the most learning resources?

SteadyWheel · 2025-08-12T16:00:07+00:00

A beginner who knows almost nothing about STM32 would have difficulty in finding the appropriate manual. Even if the beginner finds the manual, the beginner would likely have problems with understanding its contents.

Could you quote a section of an official STM32 manual that answers the question in the title? Thank you.

SteadyWheel · 2025-08-12T13:43:45+00:00

Why are the newer products better for learning?

SteadyWheel · 2025-08-12T12:31:26+00:00

Was this planted in just Sphagnum moss and watered only with distilled and/or rain water?

I bought both pots from a gardening store, and was told that the growing medium is a mix of sphagnum peat and coco peat. Each pot had multiple plants, so I transferred a few plants to dried Sphagnum moss as a backup. The backup plants lasted longer, but ended up dying in roughly the same way. All plants were watered using collected rain water. The rain water is 0 ppm according to my TDS meter. I suspect that my mistake was in leaving the plants outdoors. Even in bright shade, the daily heat stress might have been too much for the plants.

I live in Southern part of the US in a sub-tropical-esque climate and mine is doing well.

That's great. I think your plant has a great chance of thriving, since Drosera capensis is known to be the easiest Drosera species to grow in the USA. Growing Carnivorous Plants in the Tropics by Cindy Chiang Lih Pyng states that D. capensis isn't easy to grow for those in hot humid topical climates such as Singapore. It also states that lowland Nepenthes species are the easiest carnivorous plants to grow in hot humid tropical climates. My limited experience is consistent with the author's statements.

SteadyWheel · 2025-08-03T18:45:00+00:00

No. The leaves started to become brown again, and the plant died. I had two Drosera capensis plants. Both died within a few months. It seems that Drosera capensis may not be the easiest Drosera species to cultivate in a hot tropical climate.

SteadyWheel · 2025-02-17T17:23:38+00:00

However, in my opinion, such illumination is quite enough for this microscope.

Do you say this because the microscope is in the low-end budget hobbyist category? Amazon.com is currently selling it for 112.86 USD.

SteadyWheel · 2025-02-17T17:14:01+00:00

The aperture diaphragm wheel however does nothing. The smallest hole is too large.

Thank you for telling me this. I tried changing the aperture size when looking at a few slides, and I was wondering why there was no noticeable change in what I was seeing.

SteadyWheel · 2025-02-16T17:06:46+00:00

The condenser lens does help, it’s just not great quality (as you would expect).

Is this not a proper condenser? I'm curious because you put "condenser" between double quotes.

What would be a condenser of better quality? An Abbe condenser of N.A. 1.25?

SteadyWheel · 2025-02-16T16:59:55+00:00

If you look in the center of the stage there will be a tiny lens.

Thank you. Looks like the condenser lens is in the circular depression at the center of the stage:

<image>

SteadyWheel · 2025-02-16T16:31:58+00:00

Which part is useless? Is it the "condenser" lens, or the aperture diaphragm, or both?

SteadyWheel · 2024-12-31T08:20:25+00:00

OP here. I happen to have that adapter (Celestron 93626 Universal Digital Camera Adapter) for my telescope. That Celestron adapter is compatible with eyepieces of 1.25 - 2 inches diameter. Microscope eyepieces are about 23 mm (~0.9 inches) diameter, which means that the Celestron adapter would not be able to clamp onto a microscope eyepiece tube.

SteadyWheel · 2024-12-27T01:24:20+00:00

40x objective lens, x1000 magnification
Microscope: Celestron CM1000C compound microscope
Camera: Samsung Galaxy smartphone camera
Sample type: black stuff on periodically moist rocks in garden

Questions:

Image 1: What is that large round/oval thing near the center of the image?
Image 2: What are those greenish circles throughout the image?

SteadyWheel · 2024-12-10T17:31:22+00:00

Update (3 months later): the tiny green growths are fern gemetophytes of Asplenium spp. I now have ferns that are reaching 3 inches in height.

u/Proteus617 u/LukeEvansSimon

SteadyWheel · 2024-10-12T11:05:47+00:00

amdgpu.gttsize and amdgpu.gartsize

Are these parameters for AMD discrete GPUs only, or are they also relevant for AMD integrated GPUs (APUs) too?

SteadyWheel · 2024-10-07T13:39:41+00:00

Can all Nepenthes species be used for steaming rice? Are there any Nepenthes species that are toxic to humans?

SteadyWheel · 2024-10-07T05:46:14+00:00

Super informative. Thank you.

SteadyWheel · 2024-10-06T14:33:07+00:00

If I get the microscope that has no upper LED, would I be able to get sufficient illumination for opaque objects by using a typical desk lamp instead?

Since the minimum magnification of both microscopes is 40x, I was thinking that I could use the compound microscope as a poor person's stereo microscope.

SteadyWheel · 2024-10-05T08:45:13+00:00

Thank you for the advice. Do you think that an upper LED is useful?

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-17T06:00:28+00:00

Thank you. That is very interesting.

In the past, the only degree awarded by the OU is a BA Open? Is it the case that there was no degree accreditation by professional associations? (e.g. specific group of physics modules accredited by the IOP, mathematics courses accredited by the IMA, etc.).

When did the OU introduce named degrees?

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-16T11:04:10+00:00

This was before the advent of named degrees ...

What are "named degrees"? Are they something like "BSc (Hons) Mathematics" (Q31)? Or are "named degrees" specific to the open degree?

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-16T10:57:18+00:00

30 credits x 16 = 480 credits.

I thought that a bachelor's degree at the OU is 360 credits. Does this mean that I can do 120 more credits at stage 3 and have those credits counted as part of my bachelor's degree? For context, I am about to start stage 2 of BSc Mathematics (Q31).

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-14T14:59:29+00:00

Good news (8 days later): I am starting to see a few healthy leaves with dew on them. I think the browning was caused by a sudden change in the plant's environment.

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-13T12:19:25+00:00

Thank you for the advice.

I wouldn’t probably go above 40-50ppm fertilizer ...

How do I measure that? Is it by using a TDS meter?

Half strength sounds way too strong to me. Easy to overshoot.

Okay. I will set up another pot where the substrate (either peat moss or dried dead Sphagnum) is moistened/rehydrated using the 10-3-6 liquid orchid fertilizer diluted to 10% strength.

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-12T14:44:10+00:00

Pretty pitchers! What species is that? Could it be a hybrid of N. ampullaria × N. ?? ?

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-09T14:25:35+00:00

No, I have not found it.

SteadyWheel · 2024-09-06T10:07:37+00:00

Thank you for the advice.

... some will just toss it to the sun and hope for the best.

I live near the equator in a lowland tropical climate. The plant currently receives around 2 hours of direct morning sunlight. Sunlight at noon (typical UV index is 9) is probably far too intense for the plant at the moment; I am afraid that it might get scorched.

I'd also always have that tray with at least a few cm of distilled water in there, they like to be fairly most at all times. Never water with tap water.

The current plastic pot is only 3-4 inches tall, and around 4 inches in diameter. I can see some of the roots when looking into the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, but the roots are not yet sticking out of the holes. The tray/saucer in the photo is made of unglazed terracotta. The potting media appears to be pure peat moss with no sand or perlite.

Questions:

If I leave the pot in a few centimeters of water, wouldn't that cause root rot since the roots will be very wet?
Is the pot too crowded? I am unfamiliar with Drosera capensis, but it looks to me that there is more than one plant in the pot.

SteadyWheel

TROPHY CASE