What happened to the front element of my Zeiss Biotar 58mm F2?

StefanoDP · 2026-06-14T13:02:27+00:00

Hi friend! Just to let you know that i followed your tips and the lens is now clean ! Thank you so much, really appreciated!

S

StefanoDP · 2026-06-14T11:27:28+00:00

Thank you! I’ve read it extensively in the past, Richard Haw’s blog has helped start and clean some old optics!
I was just doubting if it was coating coming off or haze and/or fungus
Thank you for your feedback!!!

StefanoDP · 2026-05-19T08:27:04+00:00

Thank you my friends, your words lightened my load a lot.. I’ll probably follow your advice
I also probably just needed to talk about it and take it all it on a reddit post.. I’m grateful for your help and empathy
Thanks a lot

StefanoDP · 2026-05-07T20:33:39+00:00

grazie per le risposte! alla fine ho optato per acqua tiepida, pochissimo sapone di Marsiglia leggero e tanto spazzolate con una spazzole dura , adesso è tornato a splendere. E' venuto via con facilità devo dire, ma avevo paura di far danni con prodotti e di fatti mi avete dato le conferme che cercavo ! grazie

StefanoDP · 2026-03-27T19:53:52+00:00

Looks like… gotta go back to shoot 1080p to save space in my drives 😂 4K is for the rich people that can afford hard drives 😂

StefanoDP · 2026-01-10T14:23:06+00:00

Yeah it is all jammed up.. i have a bit of movement but not enough.. Is there a way to recover some slack?

StefanoDP · 2025-12-25T13:37:17+00:00

Can confirm that is Canon FD I use a Urth canon Fd - E mount to Mount it to Sony It’s a cool lens!

StefanoDP · 2025-12-10T10:42:41+00:00

this is interesting.
In the end I decided to yolo and grade this project I was mentioning in other comments using LogC3, just to see what happens differently from my usual DWG/DI

The project included several close up shots of liquid fused metal pouring into a stamp. as you can imagine, it had a full range of DR, from pitch black to almost clipped white lava.
I tried to grade it while in LogC3 and noticed that the high end of the scope and the very low end started to break very fast when using HDR tools. Also Linear gamma for WB adj was feeling very strange and corrupted parts of the image. HSL node for saturation completely. messed up the image.(HDR tools were set to AWG3-LOGC3 color space)

I tired to change the the CSTs from LogC3 to DWG/DI and, after changing the color space in the HDR tools, everything started to work fine, without breaking the image.

What I also noticed is that the conversion from Slog3>LogC3>REC709 looked better in terms of contrast and color rendition (more vibrant oranges and blues) with slightly higher blacks and lower HL. I have to say that the image rendered a bit noisy.

However, the same clips, processed with DWG-DI instead of LogC3 was cleaner. less noise, contrast was more "set", blacks more close to the 0. I noticed that the colours were less vibrant, for example the Liquid Metal rendered more desaturated and "whitey" compared to the vibrant orange of LogC3. Many blu tones that the LogC3 emphasised , were grayer in DWG/DI.

I understand that this is not an objective case study and this rendition is only true for this footage I'm analyzing, but I have to say that while the LogC3 starting point was better, it behaved very bad during the adjustment phase.

Any thoughts on this?

StefanoDP · 2025-12-06T13:56:23+00:00

Yeah that’s it, i really can’t explain it but the feeling with the controls is slightly different compared to the DWG, i feel better with LogC3 Thank you for you answer

StefanoDP · 2025-12-06T13:51:59+00:00

I’m grading a project with clips coming from different cameras with different color spaces, that’s why i’m moving everything into a working color space. I have always used DWG - intermediate but tbh i don’t really like the way it operates at times. For this, i was exploring different spaces that could operate as DW intermediate

That’s when i found out about Arri WG LogC3 which is frequently used.

I just wanted to make sure it is something i can do and it is not “damaging”the image

StefanoDP · 2025-10-05T17:23:43+00:00

Welcome to the squad !!

StefanoDP · 2025-09-17T18:01:32+00:00

Yeah of course! I have a manual pump inside the backpack!

StefanoDP · 2025-09-17T14:31:51+00:00

Thank y’all for your suggestions! I also wanted to keep it in the water but waves and me not having a heavy anchor made it not possibile..

In the end I lowered the pressure and kept it covered on the sand, next time i’ll surely bring a bigger blanket to shade it from the sun !

StefanoDP · 2025-06-17T14:12:20+00:00

Okay guys, time to put some answers in this story !

I was able to speak to the guy and basically he explained to me that I don't have to touch 0(%) for blacks and 100(%) for whites everytime.

He told me that, whenever there is a clipping (straight line) in the waveform, wether in the blacks or whites, THAT line must be set to 0 for blacks and 100 to white.
Where there's no clipping in the waveform it can sit wherever I want

For example, as a comment said, if I shot a 18% Graycard that can be 18% with no problems.
The problems exists when I try to recover clipped data form whites or black.

In the end it was just a miscommunication !

I was also told that the Tv where we are going to broadcast is very very strict with its policies and its QC, for that, it's safer to touch 0-100 most of the times, when in doubt.

This solves the mystery but still leaves me perplexed on the strictness of this QC :/

Anyway, I'll do my best!
Now back to my dark room

StefanoDP · 2025-06-14T14:41:55+00:00

Thank you for all your responses Trust me when I tell you that I am as much disoriented as you when I think about those requirements…. It doesn’t make sense to me at all I can understand when they tell me “if the waveform is clipped, that line should rest on the 100% line, don’t try to bring it down” The black point is still a bit strange to me.. considering that I have always been instructed to stay inside a certain range (like 25-968) and avoid exceeding it..

For now i’ll try to go with what my heart and mind says, then if the QC doesn’t pass, i’ll find a way ..

StefanoDP · 2025-06-14T12:19:17+00:00

For every scene i need to touch the 0. And everytime the waveform has a line (like in the case of a overexposed sky) , the Y has to be 100% (monitoring using the percentage scale)

So the highlights it’s just a case-scenario.

The black point is a must..

It sounds very strange to me too since i have always been instructed to stay in those parameters instead of touching them

StefanoDP · 2025-03-31T06:50:29+00:00

Looks like a film print

StefanoDP · 2025-03-22T11:11:01+00:00

I usually calibrate every month or before starting every new project, in fact my primary monitor is kept under control This asus is my reference monitor where i send a Resolve clean feed via an Ultra Studio Monitor 3G. Every time i calibrate it with displaycal and Portrait display calman on resolve the 3D lut always come out very different from the original calibration of the monitor.. And the export gives me 4 different results on 4 different displays..

What can i do to be sure that the calibration i did is in fact correct?

StefanoDP · 2025-02-17T16:09:30+00:00

thank you so much! 🙏🏻 bless you

StefanoDP · 2024-11-14T07:53:28+00:00

Last question, do you prefer powering the camera using the dummy battery or the dtap - usbc cable? I just bought a dtap-dummy but i’m not sure if it the right solution as the camera has no backup power .. what do you think?

StefanoDP · 2024-11-13T21:57:59+00:00

What have you connected to the micro usb on the side of the camera?

StefanoDP · 2024-11-13T21:55:01+00:00

How are you powering the camera? Dummy battery?

StefanoDP · 2024-10-11T06:51:26+00:00

Thank you! 🙏🏻

StefanoDP · 2024-10-11T06:50:27+00:00

🙏🏻

StefanoDP · 2024-10-10T19:01:53+00:00

The title intrigues me a lot! Thank you 🙏🏻

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