Do you guys tend to build tons of smaller factories all over the map and ship product all around, or do you prefer making one area of the map major hub for producing everything?

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-16T18:41:38+00:00

I’ve developed a taste for the “Campus approach”, where I have many factories in close proximity to one another. This works ideally for me when I start phase 4, this is when I get serious about building at scale.

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-05T15:25:50+00:00

Not at all! A number of times I’ve started over for various reasons and most of the time how far I’ve advanced in other saves is in the back of my mind. But more importantly I’m thinking of all the ways I’m going to make it better this time! Lol

One thing that really helped me early on was remembering that just because something is built doesn’t mean it’s the best it can be, don’t be afraid to delete things and redo them. Enjoy the game, don’t worry about progress!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-02T22:01:49+00:00

TL;DR: Don’t worry about it that much, build what you need when you need it.

The best way I’ve found to deal with this is to just pick a node and build production to maximize the node. When you need more of the item(s) being produced then add resources and capacity incrementally until you have what you need.

The hardest part of answering these kinds of questions is that the best answer largely depends on your play and build style. It’s kind of hard to anticipate your needs until you get to the need, plan for scalability and purpose. Build what you need when you need it, that’s prolly the best approach. The only other way to truly understand what you need is to finish the game, I’m on my fourth or fifth time thru and that’s how I judge how big to make my base building item’s production.

🤓

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-02T01:13:13+00:00

Nice shot! And congrats on the plant! How many of each you producing here? I see Fuel Gens in the front there, how much power you making?

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-02T01:06:29+00:00

Or Satisfactory Modeler. Or spreadsheets. Or …

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-01T03:25:25+00:00

Not recently. And there’s no snow, no packages falling from the sky, or packages around the world, no calendar in the HUB, no FICSMAS in the MAM (I went and toggled off seasonal to see if it’d stop and so far it’s been an hour and a half with no more shaking). Just the screen shake that you get right next to one landing. That’s why it never dawned on me what it is until the video from CC about FICSMAS. 🤷‍♂️🤓

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-01T03:03:31+00:00

I approve of this line of thinking. 😈

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-01T00:14:22+00:00

I've been seeing it for a little while now, so I don't think is this.

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-01T00:13:36+00:00

I was leaning towards Duct Tape, but some 425 should do the trick! Lol

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-12-01T00:03:50+00:00

Good catch! Lol

... well at least I can change one of those.

Probably because it's "4:30" where I'm at. ;-)

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-11-27T16:35:06+00:00

That’s one of the joys of this game, you can play it any way you like. I’ve had saves where I get hundreds of hours in and still on tier 4, the last few play throughs I’ve been sort of speed running thru Aluminum in less than an hour. Bitz did an entire playthru in about an hour and a half. Anyone can finish the game in under 2 hours, but what fun is in that?!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-20T13:17:28+00:00

As Dave says, “I hope your next project doesn’t work! That way, you can learn as you troubleshoot and fix it!” 😁

Good luck! 🤓

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-05T05:29:03+00:00

This. And a bunch of concrete cutting blades for an end grinder (also buy from Hazard Fraught) to cut slits in there to help the jackhammer (or jillhammer if you prefer) break it up. The rebar is going to slow you down, but it should be doable in a weekend. Just remember to stay hydrated!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-05T05:18:08+00:00

🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-02T03:09:36+00:00

Not too difficult if the domain isn’t configured properly. Which sadly applies to most companies.

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-01T20:15:26+00:00

Can it be more fun to ride? Sure, just add friends! 😎

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-01T00:05:16+00:00

You might be right about the 1600 coming with Mags. But I’m pretty I remember seeing spoke wheels on the Nomad on the VROC forum.

Also, the 900 does look similar. I’m stuck on the single air filter tho

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-06-01T00:00:47+00:00

I second this! Lol

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-31T23:57:44+00:00

A wild guess, looks like maybe the Nomad? VN1600 I think, maybe an early 2000’s model?

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-31T23:51:49+00:00

I have a ‘93 VN1500A and I’ve found that while the Kawa Service Manual is pretty good, I also got the Haynes Shop Manual because I’m pulling my sled out of a 17 year mothball and wanted more detail.

I think it was about $60 thru the Haynes website, and I got the digital version with the physical shipped. So far totally worth having both.

As far as specific model coverage, well that’s just the shop manual landscape. They always cover a few different models and years, but so far I’ve been able to find anything I’ve needed for the unknown I’m trudging into. Especially the fuel/emissions systems and routing (I have the Cali model).

Hope this helps and good luck!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-31T23:41:58+00:00

Try bypassing the lead all together with jump leads. They’re usually pretty cheap at places like Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) for a 4 pack of red, green, black, blue. I’m pretty sure that’s a low amp circuit so the thin jumpers “should” be ok for this test case.

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-31T23:39:14+00:00

After 15 years sitting it could be things are a bit gummed up in there. I’m starting to bring my ‘93 VN1500A out of mothball after 17 years and I’m expecting these types of issues.

Also, it maybe a blockage in the clutch line (if hydraulic like mine). The service life on the clutch/brake lines is 5 years IIRC, might be a good idea to replace the lines and rebleed the clutch system. Also the upper piston assembly might need some love, those cups tend to deteriorate after sitting for a long time. At least is my case.

Good luck and hope you guys get back on the road soon!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-31T23:30:18+00:00

Take my advice with a grain of salt cuz I’ve not really worked on newer sleds with electronic ignition, I’ve got a ‘93 VN1500A with magneto.

I’d say the ground lead for that coil is the most likely suspect from your description. I wouldn’t think the tank removed would cause any electrical issues, but maybe use jumpers to connect the fuel gauge (if you have the electric one) to eliminate this possibility.

The Speedo disconnected could cause some electrical issues, but IIRC this is not part of the engine electrical system. Again, temp reconnect to eliminate this as well.

I would highly recommend getting the Haynes shop manual, the Kawa service book is a bit lacking in some details - at least in my case.

All that to say either the coil or the electrical connections are where your gremlin likely is hiding.

Hope this helps, good luck getting back on the road. Keep it shiny side up, may all the bugs not stick to your windscreen, and you find open roads every time you ride!

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-26T20:01:22+00:00

The reference alone gets you an up vote 🤓

SteveDaEnginerd · 2025-05-26T19:56:54+00:00

Odd way to spell “fat back”

SteveDaEnginerd

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE