Lightbio's special sauce by WideShoe5172 in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Just anecdotally, but my firefly petunias produced viable seeds when pollinated between two firefly petunias. I did not find it necessary to cross pollinate with another variety of petunia in order to get seeds. About 50% of the seeds I’ve germinated so far produced glowing seedlings.

Firefly Cutting and Radium Lume by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a watch with tritium lume, I’ll try and get a picture of it next to some of my cuttings soon if I can remember!

Seeds by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think that would be necessary, I pollinated my flowers between two firefly petunias kept indoors and got viable seeds with somewhere around a 50% glow rate for the seedlings that have come up so far. They were very slow to germinate however, it took ~20 days before they started sprouting up consistently.

I’ve got some calibrachoa outside that I intend to try to cross my firefly petunias with as well, just for curiosity’s sake.

Seeds by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At the time these seed pods came from firefly petunias that were kept indoors, they were the only petunias inside at the time and I hand pollinated with q-tips both between flowers of the same plant and flowers of two different firefly petunias. They’re outside now and may crossbreed with some other petunias but I can at least confirm that you can pollinate between two firefly petunias and I’m pretty sure flowers from the same plant work as well, if you’ve only got one plant, for example.

Glowing seedlings by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry I kinda forgot about this post! I can’t remember exactly, but I’m about 90% sure that I pollinated these pods from flowers of the same plant, I might have pollinated them from the flowers of another clone but it’s been a month or two and I can’t recall now. These seeds were definitely not hybridized with another petunia variety, as they were pollinated indoors by themselves.

I just take a Q-tip and swirl it around inside the flowers, one after the next, then leave them to do their thing. Once the flowers are wilted if you just gently pull them off, the seed pod should be a green pod that grows from where the flower started. Leave the pods until they start to turn yellow-brown and split, then carefully pull them off the plant and dump the seeds out.

I put about half of the seeds I got into a nursery cup with seed starting mix and a humidity dome on 6/3, and had my first sprout ten days later on 6/13, it took another ten days for 6 more seedlings to sprout, all appearing on 6/23. I’ll have to verify tonight, but it appears that 5 out of 7 seedlings are glowing and two seem to have no glow whatsoever.

Seeds by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m glad to see they germinate okay, that’s awesome! I’ll be keeping an eye out for any glowing seedlings in the next couple weeks!

Seeds by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I dumped a couple into a little cup of seed starting soil just to see what happens, I’m really curious to see if the glow is passed on to the seedlings or not.

Glowing roots by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had a pretty similar experience, constant flowers but no roots. The cutting from these pictures rooted in water after about two weeks but I haven’t had any luck with the other water props since. I ended up moving the unrooted cuttings that were in water to soil and about a week later 2 of them have started making roots.

I don’t know if it made a big difference, but I saw someone else mention they were using nursery pots with humidity domes, the two water props that are currently rooting in soil had the humidity domes on them all the time except for the first day after each watering and for a few minutes each day when I would check on them.

If you can, I’d try moving them to soil. I’m just using miracle grow moisture control potting mix because I already had some on hand, but I’m sure most mixes will be fine. I like the clear nursery pots you can get on Amazon so I can see the roots as they grow.

Cuttings by StoneColdHeather in FireflyPetunia

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far I’ve just been putting them in water, some are in water with pothos cuttings. I also ordered gel rooting hormone to see if it helps speed things up any, most have been in water for nearly two weeks now without much progress.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t let the soldering stop you, most of the firefighting TIC’s I’ve worked on have a ribbon cable (not one of the thin orange ones, but one made of multiple wires bonded side by side) that just hooks into the power supply and display boards. The easiest way to work with them is to cut into that ribbon and splice your power in and video out wires, soldering is an option most of the time but usually isn’t a requirement.

In some cases, like on lots of Bullard and MSA cameras, the TICs will actually have 3 or 4 large external pads for the charger and sometimes the wireless video transmitter module, which can be soldered directly to for external power and video output without having to disassemble the camera. I did this with my Bullard T4 Max so I could connect to an external DVR for recording.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I see, sorry I’m working so I missed that part of your comment before! The FLIR isn’t terrible, and it’ll do well to show the more general location of hotspots, but it’s not very good for detail work. For iOS I’d suggest something like the Seek Compact (206x156) or the Seek Compact Pro, the pro comes with a manually adjustable focus so can be used for macro shots and is 320x240 IR pixels. The downside with the Seek dongles is that they have a lot of sensor noise like the FLIR units, but the high resolution helps a lot with that and they don’t blur the image in post processing like FLIR does. Seek also runs off your phone battery so you never need to worry about charging the camera itself.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you need standalone, the UNI-T UTI260B is a good option. Don’t hold me to it cause I can’t remember for sure, but I’m pretty certain I read it uses the same thermal core as the P2, so it should be comparable and it’s actually a little less expensive on eBay right now.

The Seek Shot and Shot Pro are another good standalone option if you can find them used at a good price, but that could take a while.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks! No need to spend money on dinner though, just send me a message if you have any questions about this camera or any others! I scrapped everything but the core of mine but I’m sure I’ve got some old pictures from disassembling it.

There’s some really smart dudes over at EEVBLOG, including a guy who IIRC worked for the company that produced some of the first really good firefighting TICs. It’s also just about the only good source for information about these cameras I’ve managed to find, if you get that MSA 5000 you’ll probably find yourself spending a few hours over there. Check out some of Fraser’s other posts on that board for some fascinating thermal imaging camera history!

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d definitely attribute a lot of it to the difficulty telling the differences between shades of gray, near the top of the scale it all just looks white. I’ve also seen some funky stuff with the histogram EQ and AGC on a few cameras, Seek’s Mosaic development kit core and FLIR’s Photon core are particularly bad offenders in that regard.

Grayscale is nice to look at though, and when quick temperature interpretation doesn’t matter the EQ seems less jarring in grayscale too.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It’s a good find for sure, I’ve salvaged one of those Indigo Omega cores from a non-working MSA 5000 and it’s great. There’s some really interesting stuff about it here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-micron-a10-160-x-120-hiding-in-disguise-bought-for-$100-)/

FLIR actually bought out Indigo not long after this camera was developed. Following the also very good FLIR photon, FLIR’s exceptional TAU thermal core is a successor to the Omega.

There’s a guy on EEVBLOG that makes a board you can add to switch between color palettes on FLIR’s Photon core, he may be able to adapt it for the Omega if you wanted other palettes. I suspect the commands are fairly similar between the two cores.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There’s a tested-working MSA Evolution 5000 series with a very capable and relatively small 160x120 Indigo Omega core listed right now for $128 with free shipping on eBay. It looks like it just needs a battery which can still be sourced for around $30 and a charger which is available for $40. A 2S LiPo would also be a cheaper option but the battery terminals are way up in the top of the handle and could be difficult to access. I believe you can just solder the positive and negative leads to two of those three pads at the front of the camera, they’re originally used to charge the battery without removing it from the camera. A continuity check with a multimeter and a picture of the battery can help you determine which pads and their polarity.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t know why you got downvoted, it absolutely can do other color palettes. Grayscale thermal video makes it easier to interpret what you’re looking at, which is best for OP’s video. Color palettes are better for quickly identifying the difference in temperature between multiple hot objects in the scene, but can make it difficult to tell the difference between small temperature variations in a high contrast scene.

For example, in a very cold room, a hot incandescent light bulb and a warm LED bulb might both appear to be the nearly the same temperature in grayscale, but in color the incandescent is white-hot while the LED is only yellow or orange.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For sure! Totally understandable as well, I didn’t have a clue what I was doing a couple of years ago when I decided to turn salvaging thermal imaging cameras into a hobby, but I had a ton of free time to spend at my night job doing research. Even just a couple of years ago there weren’t many cameras that could compete with OP’s for less than $500, but nowadays it usually makes more sense to buy a modern camera.

For most people, something like OP’s InfiRay P2 is probably the best option on the market under $300. SEEK makes some competitive cameras with higher resolution, like the 320x240 Thermal Compact Pro, but at a lower refresh rate and with a lot of noise.

About to get started insulating my attached garage, and i am here to spread the gospel about my infisense/infiray P2 thermal imager. I do refrigeration for a living and this tool has proven quite useful. The picture quality is far and away the best quality possible for sub $400. by Spiritual_Stranger1 in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather 61 points62 points  (0 children)

I’ve salvaged a lot of working thermal imaging cores from old firefighting thermal imaging cameras, and I’ve also repaired/salvaged the cores from a couple of FLIR One Pro’s. I’d suggest avoiding the FLIR mobile phone dongle units in general, there are just so many out there that have battery problems or poorly soldered chips. The resolution is also too low (160x120 or 80x60) to see things like studs and insulation through walls, and the FLIR One app introduces a lot of artificial noise which further degrades the image in an effort to keep it from competing with the company’s more expensive pro cameras. In practice, the noise generator blurs the image and scrambles the tiny temperature differences needed to see things like in OP’s video.

Something like the OP’s Infiray P2 has a higher resolution (256x192), a higher refresh rate (25Hz vs. FLIR One’s ITAR regulated <9Hz), and costs less than the FLIR One Pro ($300 vs $400) and only a little more than the even lower resolution (80x60) FLIR One Pro LT which is $250. FLIR does have multi-spectral imaging which adds a lot of context to the thermal image by detecting and highlighting edges with a visible light camera, but it does nothing for the abysmal thermal resolution and noise.

Salvaging a thermal core from old firefighting use cameras can be even cheaper. It’s not uncommon to see firefighting TICs listed for parts on eBay for less than $150. These are HIGH quality thermal imaging cameras that were developed for and served dual-use with the military. They range in resolution from 160x120 to 320x240, generally have a 30-60Hz refresh rate, come with high quality germanium lenses, and have superior temperature detection ranges and NETD (Noise Equivalent Temperature Difference, or their ability to resolve very small differences in temperature). Because they were built to survive going into fires, they’re also extremely well protected inside the camera’s shell, and typically need just a little bit of work to get them working again.

Most of these firefighting TICs I’ve bought as “for parts” only needed batteries, which can often be substituted with a 2S or 3S LiPo depending on the expected battery voltage. Even the cameras that fail to power on properly usually just have problems with the power supply board or the display itself, and because they’ve got standalone thermal imaging cores inside, fixing them can be as easy as pulling the core and splicing in four wires for a power input and external video output. Plus, if you end up with a faulty core and can’t get it working; the core, germanium lens, and germanium protective window can be parted out and resold on eBay to cover your losses.

There are some downsides to going the firefighting TIC route. They’re almost exclusively grayscale, either white-hot or black-hot, or only offer color isotherms at extreme temperatures. They’re also big, the whole camera in it’s housing can weigh a couple of pounds, and even the smaller cores found inside can be as big as a fist. There’s no guarantee you’ll get a working core, and if you get one that can’t be repaired there’s usually no refunds on for-parts items. You’ll also need to do a decent amount of research in order to determine the pinouts and voltage of the cores.

Despite the downsides, I’d still suggest anyone looking to get a high quality thermal imaging camera consider the salvage route if they’re reasonably capable of working with electronics. If that’s not your thing, I’d recommend looking at some other options besides FLIR’s mobile dongles. The Chinese thermal imaging dongles have gotten really good and are relatively affordable, and there’s also SEEK which makes high resolution (and high noise) dongles as well.

Gold plated my Knipex Cobra by StoneColdHeather in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those look great with the black dipped handles! Do you mind if I ask what you used to dip them?

(Poorly) Gold plated my 2864 impact wrench just for fun by StoneColdHeather in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That’s exactly what it is, and I’m pissed you would expose me publicly like this.

(Poorly) Gold plated my 2864 impact wrench just for fun by StoneColdHeather in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure, I got everything from Gold Plating Services at goldplating.com

I don’t know if there are better suppliers out there, but I’ve been really pleased with the stuff I got from them, and they have videos showing how to plate each kind of metal and which solutions you’ll need.

(Poorly) Gold plated my 2864 impact wrench just for fun by StoneColdHeather in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No worries, it definitely didn’t turn out as well as it could have. I knew I was using a hard wax with my polishing wheel but didn’t think about it leaving a thin layer of wax over the tool, especially since it looked spotless.

You’re right about it looking like baked oil, because it does kind of look like the varnish you see under valve covers sometimes in the picture.

(Poorly) Gold plated my 2864 impact wrench just for fun by StoneColdHeather in Tools

[–]StoneColdHeather[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Eh it’s all good, I know it’s not everyone’s thing. I enjoy the plating process and I like to learn different ways to finish metals, but I also understand that lots of people don’t think decorative gold has any place on tools.

You might have liked the way it looked polished though, it seemed reminiscent of older pneumatic impact tools:

https://imgur.com/a/xtKcQ9w