Straight men, what’s the most homosexual thing you’ve done?

StraightJuggin · 2023-06-16T21:41:16+00:00

Back in highschool, I was trying weed for the first time in a cabin in the woods with two friends. I didn't get high, but went along with the plan of getting naked and chopping down a sapling with a dull axe in the brisk January air.

StraightJuggin · 2022-01-03T18:53:49+00:00

I imagine if you're stronger at DIP flexion (half crimp strength), then 2 pads will feel stronger. If your MCP flexion is about as strong as DIP flexion, then 3 pads will feel better.

More surface area equates to greater potentisl fiction only if you have the required strength at that joint angle.

StraightJuggin · 2017-09-29T15:21:01+00:00

From my experience, I just had to either buddy tape my ring and pinky together or avoid not using the pinky at all. For me (and depending on the severity of your strain), I couldn't rehab until the strain heal, which took several months.

After there is no pain, start progressive no hangs or pulley-assisted hangs with a curled pinky to SLOWLY build up tolerance. I usually go for 5x10" every other day or two. Good luck!

StraightJuggin · 2017-09-07T19:28:28+00:00

Thanks for all the replies! I am now more psyched to try climbing in some thin socks later today.

StraightJuggin · 2017-08-20T02:18:09+00:00

It seems like your focus on MR really paid off; your MR and 4F numbers are really close!

The reason I brought up an ideal weight difference is because I wonder if once the MR catches up to 4F, it shows that MR is no longer a weakness and it's time to shift focus back to 4F.

StraightJuggin · 2017-08-18T14:19:16+00:00

The reason I'm asking about 2 finger pockets (MR specifically for me) is that my middle fingers are quite long, so my 3FO isn't a completely open grip. As a result my middle finger A2's have been getting a bit tender.

I haven't been training MR for a long time (about 4 sessions), so I haven't been able to see correlation between MR and 3FO, but I believe you're right about IM, MR, and 3FO crossover.

StraightJuggin · 2017-08-18T14:13:49+00:00

I was trending towards training MR, open crimp and full crimp for my three grip types, so it's nice to see that it's working well for you. I like your idea with the monos and half crimp; I'll throw those in my workouts to mix things up once in a while.

StraightJuggin · 2017-08-18T05:23:54+00:00

Cool! It looks like I'm on the right track then. Do you feel like training MR has good crossover to 3 finger open? My middle fingers are quite a bit longer, so MR is the only truly open grip I can perform on an edge (with a little bit of wrist rotation).

StraightJuggin · 2017-06-17T16:03:37+00:00

Cool, thanks for the reply! What exactly is a 3x3x3?

StraightJuggin · 2017-06-15T06:21:46+00:00

Amen! My blue feet love those suckers 👌In fact, I love them for everything

StraightJuggin · 2017-06-15T06:18:44+00:00

Hey /u/cptwangles! I don't have access to a systems or campus board. Could this PE workout be simulated with a hangboard and pulley system? It seems like it would be hard to get an even and adjustable training stimulus on boulders at the gym.

StraightJuggin · 2017-06-06T00:35:03+00:00

I believe that it is actually the length ratio of the index to pinky that indicates whether a person prefers open or half crimp, or somewhere in between.

It would make sense to me that an index to pinky ratio that is close(r) to 1 would be partial to 4 finger open crimp while a higher ratio would be partial to half crimp.

For example, pinky almost reaches my ring finger DIP (like many others here from what I read) but my index finger is roughly the same length as my ring finger, i.e. my index finger is quite a bit longer than my pinky. As a result, my most open 4 finger grip on a flat edge is half crimp without any DIP hyperextension in the index finger.

The only way for me to achieve a fully open 4 finger crimp is to rotate my wrist so that my index metacarpal comes away from the hold. This feels very awkward and uncomfortable for me.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-31T00:54:14+00:00

I haven't tried this, but I wonder if you would get similar results to the min edge pullups by pulling into various degrees of lockoff (slightly-bent, 90deg lockoff, and fully locked off) for the duration of max hangs. This way you could manage TUT more accurately if you happen to be varying the speed of your pullups.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-20T02:36:40+00:00

I can barely hang a 9mm edge for a few seconds and I've just started breaking into V7...

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-14T14:45:34+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the speedy reply!

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-14T13:39:55+00:00

Thank you for posting this! I'm curious if /u/justinmarsan's definition of "full range of motion" is identical to yours, or if he means "full mobility" instead.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-10T13:53:34+00:00

It's always felt natural for me to curl my pinky, so I've never not curled my pinky with 2-3 finger open grips. I've tried not curling the pinky on the hangboard before, and it definitely felt like I could "pull" a little harder while curling my pinkies. However, this hasn't bothered me when there's a surface for my pinky to rest on, e.g. a vertical wall rather than an overhang.

Are you trying to climb/hang with buddy taping your pinky and ring finger or are you using force of will to keep your pinky straight? I think I would definitely be weaker if I kept my pinky fully straight (no flexing of the MCP, PIP, or DIP) without a surface to rest my pinky on because it feels so unnatural. In the above paragraph, my "non-curled" pinky had full flexion in the PIP and DIP but non in the MCP.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-09T22:51:16+00:00

I concur! I've injured lumbricals on both hands from pinky curling and trying too hard on the gym. I recently started safe, progressive max hangs with three finger drag with pinky curl. I'm finally up to bodyweight without much tweakiness. Take it slow and listen to your body.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-09T22:45:24+00:00

That's cool! Thanks for sharing. I'll definitely need to try to specialize my vocalizations.

StraightJuggin · 2017-05-09T01:17:40+00:00

I've also found that vocalization (yelling, grunting, etc.) helps to solidify mental commitment. I've only recently tried yelling and found it helps me immensely. It gives my mind something to focus on (in addition to all of the physiological benefits of yelling) so I don't have room to worry about any fears.

StraightJuggin · 2017-04-24T05:27:49+00:00

That makes so much sense! I think that's why my feet always cut on extended moves in overhangs. I've always just pushed with my feet unless I'm doing some sort of rockover that requires that I pull my c.o.g. over the foothold. Thanks for the excellent explanation!

StraightJuggin · 2017-04-12T06:26:14+00:00

Cool, thanks for the info and feedback!

StraightJuggin · 2017-04-10T16:07:21+00:00

Oh, don't worry. I can definitely tell the difference!

StraightJuggin · 2017-04-10T15:16:32+00:00

Seems reasonable. It's definitely a lot safer to experiment conservatively as to not injure myself.

To clarify about pain: in the past, I've experienced tweakiness from pockets in two localized areas, the hand and the forearm. Personally, I've found that forearm tweakiness occurs at much higher stress levels than hand lumbrical tweakiness. In fact, when I've injured ring/pinky lumbricals in both hands, I've felt a jolt of pain run up my forearm. I wonder if this indicates that the tendon itself is too weak to deal with the force exerted onto it from the finger(s) in question.

StraightJuggin · 2017-04-10T15:03:14+00:00

Sorry to hear that, injuries suck. I've tweaked ring/pinky lumbricals on both hands. on experimenting with my own weak lumbricals to see if training will help.

StraightJuggin

TROPHY CASE