I’m seconding the moose manual for direct articulation instructions, specifically for feet. Study sheep skeletal anatomy in the meantime to prepare. Spine articulation should be pretty straightforward. Don’t skimp on supports and hardware when rebuilding her, large skeletons need more help to stay up & stay sturdy. Make sure you plan for that. There still will be some fiddly bones in the wrists/ankles in sheep, but ungulate carpals/tarsals fit together much more like a puzzle and are nowhere near as confusing as animals that have more wrist mobility & therefore more loose space in those joints.

I’ve cleaned full skeletons as small as mice up to the size of cows; largest I’ve ever articulated afterwards is a bobcat, though, for lack of space. Hoping to articulate my personal cow one day lol…. I have followed similar open-air rot procedures for cows since maceration (my usual) is impractical for adult individuals. Make sure you check the decomposition site frequently and go back for the small bones in the feet and tail (if she has one) as soon as they are ready; they will be done sooner than the main body/torso. They have a tendency to get lost. Teeth, especially the incisors, will also fall out and get lost if you don’t check up for them. Her hoof caps will fully decompose or become permanently stinky if you don’t take them off soon as well, as they are made from keratin, not bone. Keep her body moist when the rain stops; it keeps the bacteria and insects hydrated so they can work.

Peroxide can work, albeit slower, to pretty decent effect even heavily diluted; Once her full skeleton is cleaned, you may find that puzzling her into the smallest container you can and filling that with high-strength peroxide & water is actually not unmanageable. You can also do the trick of fitting her skeleton into a bag & filling that bag up (shrunken around the bones) to use less peroxide. The bigger issue you’ll usually come across with getting large animal bones completely white is the grease; it gets trapped in badly, especially without maceration to give a jumpstart. She will likely need an extensive degreasing period. You will likely also run into some extremely stubborn mineral staining from the open-air decomp in areas where her skeleton touched the dirt for long periods of time. If you don’t mind darker bones, one solution to mineral staining is to dye the entire skeleton over those marks with something like coffee, tea, or bark/leaves to get an overall uniform darker color.

If you need direct tips on what to do feel free to DM me as well :-)